I am a big fan of MB&F’s crazy Horological Machines and think that they make world of watchmaking much, much richer. Despite that, I have had a hard time imagining one on my own average-sized, conservative wrist. Whereas previous Horological Machines have been high-tech, miniaturized machines, the curved case and eye-like domes make HM6 feel organic and corporeal. . . a nice, friendly and (despite the titanium case) soft animal begging to be touched.
In this final round table discussion, my Quill & Pad colleagues Ian, Joshua, Gary and I discuss the amazing night that was. I am glad to talk about this incredible event and provide a few behind-the-scenes insights. Being on the jury for the third time in a row this year, I knew what to expect and could relax enough to enjoy the discussions and preparations.
Marc Jenni is a watchmaker. But more than that, this profession is also his vocation and he takes pride in being able to continue his family’s tradition. If you are visiting SalonQP on the weekend, it will be your last opportunity to see the Marc Jenni brand name on a dial, though. Jenni has lost his name to a larger, more powerful Swiss brand and must cease using it on dials from January 1 onward.
There were new models launched in Hong Kong at the second edition of Watches & Wonders from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Montblanc, Audemars Piguet, IWC, Roger Dubuis, and Panerai.
Now we get to the real nitty-gritty at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.: the Aiguille d’Or. There are no ifs, and or buts any more, just a decision on which of the 72 pre-selected watches is the best overall timepiece of the year. It is the most prestigious of the awards given.
Which could be our panel’s favorite to win? The Margot by Christophe Claret? Urwerk EMC? Perhaps the De Bethune DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon? Or will it be something else entirely?
Christie’s is holding an auction on November 9 called the Patek Philippe 100. One watch is lot number 65, a Reference 2508 Calatrava. What makes this particular time-only Patek Philippe so special? Is it its condition? Its provenance? Its perfect dial and case? Its rare hands? Or perhaps all of the above?
The Petite Aiguille category is for watches under 8,000 Swiss francs (approx $8,500). The contenders are Bell & Ross BR03-92 Ceramic Black Matte, Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chrono, Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase, Seiko Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT, TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Chronographe “Racing,” and the Zenith El Primero Synopsis.
Independent watchmaker Frédéric Jouvenot’s Solar Deity collection highlights the creativity of the jump hour function even as it surprises the viewer with the complete readability of such an atypical dial: radial jump hour arms secured to a dodecagon-shaped piece in the center that houses the rotation pivots and the jump mechanism rotate once an hour, while a central half disc tracks the minutes as they pass. The effect is astounding!
On October 24, 1994 A. Lange & Söhne officially introduced its very first modern collection. The first public appearance of the new watches by A. Lange & Söhne sent out a global signal that a phoenix was rising from the ashes. And this phoenix was soon to turn into a soaring eagle, which would have the ability to captivate even dyed-in-the wool Swiss watch enthusiasts and collectors.
In this edition of ‘Behind the Lens,’ GaryG pays tribute to the introduction of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 twenty years ago on October 24, 1994. He brings us stunning images of two very special variants of the classic watch: the rare Cellini limited edition, of which only 25 were made for the New York City retailer, and the even rarer stainless steel Lange 1, which was not a limited edition per se but certainly a (very) limited sort-of production watch.