Our Predictions In The Men’s Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, 3 Picks For Winner
The watches here are as different as day and night, with only two perhaps comparable to each other because they both have jump hour displays (but even these two are as different as it gets with one very classic in looks and the other ultramodern). Additionally, we have two chronographs, a worldtimer, and a mechanical opus with two time displays. It will be hard to choose among all this mechanical charm, but our panel pushes on.
Bulgari Octo Roma Worldtimer: Everything Simply Falls Into Place
The Bulgari Octo Roma Worldtimer is delightfully down to earth. It might not be the thinnest, most complex, or rarest watch in the collection, but, boy, it is good looking! In Martin Green’s estimation, it is one of those rare watches where everything simply falls into place.
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW263 And SBGW264: Using The Principles Of Japanese Aesthetics – Reprise
These two limited editions made to celebrate 60 years of Grand Seiko are fairly different on the surface, but both achieve similar success of representing the sub-brand’s aesthetic and legacy. With possibly two very different customers for each watch, Grand Seiko also utilizes guiding principles to speak to both that are rooted in Japanese aesthetic conventions as Joshua Munchow explains.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph: Both Beauty And Beast
When the Royal Oak Offshore launched in 1993 its timing was perfect: the bolder, larger, louder sibling of the Royal Oak was one of the trailblazers of the oversized watch trend. Nearly three decades later, the line’s large sizing has mellowed down a bit. While it never comes close to becoming a dress watch, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph does a mighty fine job of outlining how the complicated future of this collection might evolve.
Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), Again Close But Not Quite Unanimous In Our Pick For Winner
It might be hard to find six more diverse pieces! Three shaped watches, two with visible movement parts, one gimmicky “troll” watch, one Japanese timepiece, one by a fashion brand turned serious watchmaker, and one designed by one of the best watch designers of all time. Whew, this is gonna be tough!
Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock: Not Your Typical UFO Sighting, But It Quite Literally ROCKS!
The Ulysse Nardin UFO clock was inspired by historical marine chronometers as well as the movement of the waves and tides. It is a gorgeous mechanical creation showcasing the creativity of Ulysse Nardin and its willingness to push the bounds of what is expected. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look without getting too seasick.
Is Silicon Here To Stay In (Rolex) Watch Movements? – Reprise
Hairsprings are miniscule. Generally no more than one centimeter in overall diameter when coiled, they are roughly 50 microns thick and 150 microns wide. Tiny they may be, but insignificant they are not. In fact, they are so significant that Rolex refers to them as “the guardians of time.” But what do silicon hairsprings bring to the table? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why he went from skeptic to fan.
Split Decision: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Chronographs, An Owner’s Perspective – Reprise
If there were a watch enthusiasts’ encyclopedia, under “embarrassment of riches” the image might just be a side-by-side shot two of contemporary watchmaking’s great complicated pieces: the “mighty” A. Lange & Söhne Double Split and Patek Philippe’s Reference 5370P split-second chronograph. In this article, GaryG compares and contrasts them to come out with a winner.
Split Decision, The Sequel: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Chronographs: An Owner’s Perspective
For reasons GaryG still doesn’t fully understand, he has long been drawn to chronographs. One nice thing he finds about comparing the Patek Philippe Reference 5370 against the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F.A. Lange is that it’s a fair fight between two purpose-built single rattrapante chronographs of classical construction. Here he puts them head to head.
3 Vintage-Inspired Pilot’s Watches For The Serious (And Less Serious) Aviator From Patek Philippe, Zenith, And Breitling – Reprise
Pilot’s watches rank among the most successful of all watch genres, owing their strong popularity to an unmistakable design with an instrument-like look resulting from over 100 years of history as a technical aid in the cockpit. Modern pilot’s watches still exude this spirit of adventure and audacity, and here are three prime examples from 2018.