Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things – Reprise

Joshua Munchow became somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he’s learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in stainless steel with blue dial

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here’s what you should know about steel.

In Praise of Anglage: Exceptional Hand-Finished Anglage Is Difficult, Slow, And Expensive So The Big Brands Have Given Up And Few Seem To Have Noticed (Or Seem To Care) – Thank God For The Indies!

Big brands are now making beautiful, reliable, and relatively accurate “traditional” mechanical watches, but the handcrafted work many of us value is disappearing. Highly skilled watchmakers and artisans are rare and expensive: there just aren’t enough of them available to churn out the large quantity of nice watches now being sold. And why bother when nobody seems to have noticed?

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Deepsea with helium escape valve

Deeper, Further, Faster: Why Do Some Dive Watches Have Helium Escape Valves? – Reprise

Humans have long had a fascination with the depths of the ocean, striving to go ever deeper, ever further, and ever faster by pushing the limits of the human body, technology, and advancing modern science. But like all things, we are often faced with limits. And the helium escape valve was invented to push one of those limits as watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains.

View through the display back to the understated impeccably, hand-finished movement of Raúl Pagès' Soberly Onyx

The Number Of Jewels In A Watch Movement Indicates Value, Or Does It It? A Myth Debunked – Reprise

Does anyone really care how many jewels their watch has? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy thinks that you’d be surprised how many people do as they’ve been duped by a vintage practice of announcing the amount of movement jewels on watch dials. What is the real story here?

Top 5 Reasons Why Watch Brands Need To Tread EXTREMELY Carefully with NFTs

In the wake of the current crypto crash and NFT markets taking a nosedive, and sharing sentiments here at Quill & Pad, Joshua Munchow goes over five very good reasons why NFTs could be a looming crisis for the watch industry. He feels that the watch industry needs to choose its next steps very carefully lest it become both latest victim AND inadvertently a criminal grifter in the NFT space.

Time Traveler’s Clock: Deciding An Atomic Clock, GPS Signal, Quartz Clock And Marine Chronometer Alone Just Didn’t Cut The Mustard, This Inventor Synced Them All Together

Imagine that after discovering and rebuilding the (imaginary) Time Viewer originally constructed by Leonardo da Vinci, an inventor saw the need for a navigational clock for time travelers. Well one inventor, Tom Bales, did just that and acted upon it.

Warning: Strong magnetic field ISO symbol

The Truth About Magnetism And Watches – Reprise

General everyday contact with magnets isn’t going to cause your beloved wristwatch any real harm, but overdoses of magnetism may still present a problem, causing erratic timing and even stoppage altogether as watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains. What to do when this happens?

Omega Aqua Terra Annual Calendar

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right – Reprise

Sometimes perpetual calendars are too complicated but a simple calendar just doesn’t cut it anymore because nearly half the months have less than 31 days, making it five adjustments a year too many for some. But don’t fret, there is a middle ground between the most basic calendar watches and complex perpetual calendars: the annual calendar automatically adjusts for each month with 30 or 31 days, meaning just one adjustment per year for the owner in February. Here’s a brief history of the complication.

De Bethune DB28 with silicon/platinum annular balance

The Schmidt List: 5 Extraordinary Balance Wheels – Reprise

The balance wheel, the critical regulatory organ of a mechanical watch, is expected to deliver a consistent frequency with a tolerance of as little as 0.001 percent. With so much at stake, why complicate things by altering a pure and simple geometric shape? Why reinvent the wheel? Well, here are five balances that definitely did reinvent the wheel.