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Ken Gargett takes a look at the new Bollinger Blanc de Noirs one-off, the B13 from the (unusual) 2013 vintage. And decides that this is no shrinking violet and that no one is going to taste this and start thinking how delicate, how elegant. It is a big, bold, full-of-flavor champagne.
Mumm Champagne has wonderful history, but then for a period it seemed to descend into little more than a discount producer. More recently, there appeared to be a serious intent to return to the glory days when this house was seen as one of the greats. Ken Gargett thinks that Mumm’s RSRV R. Lalou 2006 is a revelation. Rich and complex with honeycomb notes and some butterscotch. Great length. Finely balanced.
Best Australian wine of all time? There are a few options, but for Ken Gargett there’s a clear winner: Penfolds Bin 60A 1962, a wine that was never commercially released. And whether the Bin 60A 1962 is indeed the GOAT of Australian wine hardly matters. He does suggest, though, that if the opportunity to try it ever comes up, cross oceans to do so. You’ll never regret it.
Another champagne from 2008, you ask? Yes, Ken Gargett resoundedly replies: he says 2008 will go down as the greatest year of the champagne century despite a plethora of fine years since the turn of the millennium, and he is here to tell us all about it.
It was the wonderful 1975 Pol Roger that first ignited Ken Gargett’s love of great champagne. Here he looks at (and tastes) the 2012 releases and they do not disappoint: the great vintages of this century have been 2002, 2008, and perhaps now 2012!
The Bollinger 2012 is fast gaining a reputation as one of the very best vintages of this century. Ken Gargett thinks it’s fantastic champagne, and while truly wonderful now it has a great future. 98/100. Just wow! A couple of cases of this and we would feel a lot better about an extended period of isolation!
As far as Ken Gargett is concerned, if you want a well-priced champagne that will age immaculately, Lanson is the house for you. Cheers!
Critics are not supposed to have favorites, though we get asked exactly that question all the time. It ranks with asking parents which is their favorite child, and chances are you’ll get an equally noncommitted response. For champagne, Ken Gargett has many favorites – too many – but the house of Pol Roger will always hold a special place for him.
Everyday wines are very much a budget/quality/preference equation and you should always ensure you have sufficient of these available. Pointy end wines are those for special occasions and family events. These are the wines you want to be good for your cellar or wine fridge.
Some years ago, the American wine critic, Robert Parker, dubbed Henri Giraud as “the greatest Champagne you’ve never heard of”. Ken Gargett takes a closer look.
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