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Maurice Lacroix Roue Carrée in red gold

Round, Schmround! The Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel Cube

Gears, man, gears. They are by far my favorite application of the simple lever.

A gear is a toothed wheel that meshes with a similar toothed wheel or rack to create rotational movement. I think anybody who has read anything about machines, and definitely anyone who has read about watches, knows what a gear is.

But what many don’t realize is that a gear is not a simple machine, since it uses two components to create movement.

Ever since the first Maurice Lacroix Roue Carrée with non-circular gears came out in 2010 I have lusted over the odd set of gears visible above the dial, so being able to finally have some time with an example was very cool for me.

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Looking For An Extraordinary Gift? Try Bernard Maisner’s Luxury Stationery

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December 19, 2014
Once you get hooked on a great pen, the next step on the road to ruin is great paper. There are numerous options and a plethora of sources from which to choose, from plain bound journals to highly designed note cards and custom stationery. One coveted source of high-end stationery is New York-based artist Bernard Maisner.
Hands, hand-made: the Voutilainen Observatoire

Does Hand Finishing Matter? A Collector’s View Of Movement Decoration

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December 17, 2014
Many of youare likely to have come across at least a few heated discussions of “finishing,” a topic that seems to fascinate, and divide, watch enthusiasts. Like many people, my starting point for serious watches was with a well-priced brand long known for its expertise in developing movements, justly viewed as offering good value for money – but not necessarily for the refinement of its movement finishing, at least on its less expensive pieces. What have I learned since then?
The intricately engraved case of the Pomander Watch

The World's Oldest Watch: A Peter Henlein Mystery From 1505 Solved

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December 15, 2014
It’s a story that could have come out of a thriller novel, and it's about the oldest known watch in the world, which was made in 1505 by Peter Henlein. The Pomander Watch ('Bisamapfeluhr') as it is known, was confirmed by committee of experts as having been the work of Peter Henlein in 1505.
Wristshot of the Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Éclipse

The Moon Of Your Heart: Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Éclipse

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December 14, 2014
We keep making the moon phase complication because we love to look at the moon. One timepiece that keeps that romance alive, not to mention beauty, is the Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Éclipse. This watch captured my heart when I first saw it, and it continues to hold sway over me.
Tag Heuer Mikrogirder

Jean-Claude Biver Restructures LVMH Watch Brands; TAG Heuer CEO Stéphane Linder Resigns. Coincidence?

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December 11, 2014
On December 11, 2014, TAG Heuer CEO Stéphane Linder announced the resignation of his position after only 18 months at the post. Having been at TAG Heuer for 21 years, Linder was elevated to his current position after previous CEO Jean-Christophe Babin relocated to sibling brand Bulgari. What is the master strategy behind this and other moves at LVMH as orchestrated by Jean-Claude Biver?
‘In Search of Truth (Truth Booth)’ by Hank Willis Thomas at Art Basel Miami 2014

Impressions Of Art Basel Miami 2014

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December 10, 2014
Art Basel Miami is not just contained to an indoor fair hall but spread around Miami's South Beach, adding another colorful layer to this glitzy, at times glamorous, city in south Florida. Collins Park is also filled with colorful art. Take a look around Art Basel Miami with me now and see my original photography.
A Theo Jansen Strandbeest on the beech during Art Basel Miami 2014

Audemars Piguet Partners Art Basel Miami And The Locomotive Strandbeests By Theo Jansen

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December 9, 2014
Audemars Piguet is much more than a sponsoring partner of the Art Basel fair; at the Miami Beach Art Basel exhibition, the brand from Le Brassus staged a spectacular exhibition of Theo Jansen's Strandbeests right on the famed beach.
Jules Audemars Chronometer in pink gold

Discovering A New Friend: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Chronometer With AP Escapement

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December 6, 2014
The high-frequency 6 Hz Audemars Piguet Escapement burst onto the block in more ways than one. First off, and probably most significantly, it is of the direct impulse variety. This latter element was only made possible thanks to improved precision now available in manufacturing combined with a two-hundred-year-old design inspired by Robert Robin's escapement of 1791.
It is easier to appreciate the details in this large scale Montblanc nib

The Height Of Fine Writing: On Location With Montblanc Fine Writing Instruments

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December 5, 2014
Making the nib of a fountain pen – the point of the instrument that directs the ink – does not differ much from working precious metals to be used as watch components, but it does entail a heck of a lot of work done by hand. The nib alone needs about 40 steps until completion; making a whole pen, including barrel, cap, feed and, of course the nib, takes about 200 individual steps.
The distinctive label of Mumm champagne

Guillaume de Seynes Of Hermès On Wristwatches And The Power Of Orange

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December 4, 2014
Quill & Pad speaks with Guillaume de Seynes, member of the Hermès family and now managing director in charge of manufacturing and equity investments, to understand the brand’s corporate philosophies and history in watches a little better. De Seynes, previously in charge of the timepiece division, was the force behind supplier acquisitions such as the group's stake in movement maker Vaucher.
The full-pavé R822 calibre "Predator" buckle by Roland Iten

Photo Essay: Making Of The R822 Predator By Roland Iten, The World's Most Expensive Belt Buckle

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December 3, 2014
While $450,000 (give or take a bit of change) isn't a sum that even the richest among us is likely to scoff at, it's quite possible that a more expensive belt buckle exists that I don't know about. However, it's very unlikely that any buckle exists that comes even close to the high levels of sophistication and engineering found in the Roland Iten R822 Predator. The diamonds really are just the icing on the cake.
Classic cosmetics: The Reference 7727 is instantly recognizable as a Breguet

Why I Bought It: Breguet Classique Chronométrie Reference 7727

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December 2, 2014
Read about my recent purchase of the lovely Breguet Classique Chronométrie Reference 7727, which is not only the 2014 Aiguille d'Or winner of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, but also an excellent example of how classic can successfully meet high-tech and live to tell about it.
Histoire de Tourbillon 5 by Harry Winston

Harry Winston Histoire De Tourbillon 5: Myth Or Reality?

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November 30, 2014
We now know that the Histoire de Tourbillon 5 isn’t a hypothetical creature lost to time and remembered in lore. But what makes it so amazing beside the fact that it may very well be the last of the Histoire de Tourbillon series? All in all, I think it may be the culmination of the Histoire series, and if it is to be the last, then it is good that it is by far the best.
The Zenith Academy Favre Jacot

Monthly News Roundup: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin, IWC, Vogard, Zenith, Nomos, Armin Strom, Linde Werdelin And More

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November 28, 2014
This month’s news roundup includes a big announcement by Vogard; an unexpectedly high auction sale of a 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Chronomètre; a beautifully enameled Classico Cloisonné Amerigo Vespucci by Ulysse Nardin; a complicated timepiece by Zenith; Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt wins an important award; a Pure Skeleton by Armin Strom; and a high-tech carbon case from Linde Werdelin.
Carefully placing the movement of the Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 into its case from the back

Photo Essay: Casing A Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Chocolate

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November 27, 2014
The days getting shorter and the nights much cooler remind us that the holidays are fast approaching, so it's the perfect time to have a close look at a watch that would look great under under any angel-topped, tinsel-covered tree: the Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Chocolate.