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4N

The Jump Hour: A Love Story

JUMP! (JUMP!) You might as well jump! The jump hour has a long history, beginning in mid-nineteenth century France and stretching all the way to today with numerous brands putting their own spin on the “complication.”

Now, first things first, it can’t technically be called a complication since the accepted definition of complication is a mechanism that provides information other than the time. Therefore, retrograde hands, jump hours, constant force mechanisms, and the all-mighty tourbillon are all (technically) excluded.

That being said, anyone who gives a hoot will say in the same breath that there are many complications that don’t fit that definition, because to many a complication is something that goes above and beyond showing the time simply by the traditional, never-ceasing hands.

And I couldn’t agree more.

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Standing on the outside looking in towards the Rille Mille boutique in Mayfair, London

The Richard Mille Boutique In Mayfair, London

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November 20, 2014
It's no surprise that it took Richard Mille many years to find a suitable location for a flagship London boutique: the brand was not looking for the right space in London, it was looking in the right space in Mayfair. And in 90 Mount Street, Mayfair, London, Richard Mille found it. Like many (though certainly not all) of the luxury brands in the area, the Richard Mille boutique is relatively unassuming from the outside. However, two large, frosted images of Richard Mille's instantly-recognizable, tonneau-shaped case on the front windows provide a fairly substantial clue for those familiar with the brand.
Everose

Spending Time With The Most Complicated In-House Rolex: The Sky-Dweller

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November 19, 2014
I recently had the superb opportunity to try out the most complicated wristwatch made at modern-day Rolex for a week: the Sky-Dweller. The Sky-Dweller hides its complexity in the simplicity of using it: despite being complicated, the Sky-Dweller is an extremely practical timepiece that takes the businesslike philosophy that Rolex habitually utilizes to new “heights” by adding an interface like a function selector for setting and adjusting the time zones and annual calendar.
The Urwerk UR-110 "Eastwood" with Ebony bezel and Duke of Windsor tweed strap. The triangles are tailor's chalk for marking cloth

The Urwerk UR-110 Eastwood: A Tailor-Made Farewell Of Timber And Tweed

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November 19, 2014
The fact is that Urwerk is a small brand, albeit an extremely imaginative and talented small brand, with very limited resources available. That means that if Urwerk wants to use resources to develop and produce a new model, it first has to stop producing one of the older models. So unfortunately it's soon to be bye-bye to the UR-110. But fortunately it's hello to the final UR-110 model: the "Eastwood"!
HYT H1 Alumen Blue. The case is in ALUN 316B, a new alloy made from aluminium, magnesium, titanium and zirconium

When Opposites Collide: Microfluidics Of The HYT H1 And H2

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November 17, 2014
The HYT H1 and H2 have changed the landscape of what many thought possible in mechanical watches, and they may have even inspired other talented watchmakers to think outside the box in mixing unusual things with the old-school mechanics inside their timepieces. A lot of this is due to the incredible quality with which it was done, and the other is the sheer engineering that went into the concept.
Hermès watch display case at SalonQP 2014

Heartbeat: Hermès' Eye-Catching Displays At SalonQP 2014

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November 15, 2014
SalonQP isn't simply a watch exhibition: it's a watch exhibition inside an art gallery (the Saatchi Gallery), a setting that both the defines and enriches the brands and watches on display. And Hermès, very cleverly and very creatively, especially attracted visitors' attention at SalonQP.
Philippe Dufour (left) and Henry-John Belmont

Philippe Dufour And Henry-John Belmont Win FHH Homage To 'Passion' And 'Talent' Awards

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November 14, 2014
This young award is just barely three years old, but indeed it has already managed to reward some of the greatest personalities in the world of watches for their “passion” and “talent” – which are undeniably the most essential ingredients for the finest watchmaking. A jury from the Cultural Council of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) honored two exceptional personalities in 2014: Philippe Dufour for his "talent" and Henry-John Belmont for his "passion."
"Le Vautour" and "Le Chef" Petite Heure Minutes by Jaquet Droz in homage to the Bejart Ballet

Béjart Ballet Glissades Its Way Onto The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute In Tokyo

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November 12, 2014
Earlier in 2014, Jaquet Droz announced a partnership with Lausanne’s Béjart Ballet. A ballet dancer perfectly masters the movements of his or her body, which makes for perfect allegory to Pierre Jaquet Droz’s lifelike mechanical androids using flow, flux, movement, and human expression through motion. Meet The Vulture and The Chief, two extraordinarily artistic Jaquet Droz timepieces paying homage to the dance.
SalonQP 2014

Roundup of SalonQP 2014: London's Premier Watch Exhibition

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November 11, 2014
SalonQP, London's premier watch exhibition, ran from the 6th through the 8th of November 2014 at the prestigious Saatchi Art Gallery in central London. It was bigger and better than ever in terms of both size and visitor numbers. Read on for more than just a few reasons (and lots of photos) why SalonQP is my favorite watch exhibition.
Metal lace: looking through the movement of the Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette

Why I Bought It: Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette

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November 10, 2014
Once upon a time, in a small watch shop in a (relatively) small California town, there was a watch display case. This was before I really knew much at all about Vacheron Constantin as a brand and company. There was a display case. And a watch: the Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette.
Breguet Tradition Fusée Tourbillon in red gold

Déjà, Jamais, And Presque Vu: All Thanks To The Breguet Tradition 7047 Fusée Tourbillon

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November 9, 2014
The Tradition Fusée Tourbillon is the most incredible modern Breguet that I have ever seen. I make no claims as to its innovation, its complexity, or its everyday wearability. I simply make the claim that if you wanted a true Breguet timepiece with all of the brand’s history rolled into one, the 7047 would be the one.
Jaeger-LaCoultre Geophysic 1958

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic 1958: Appealingly Adventurous On The Wrist

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November 7, 2014
As the new millennium dawned on the watch world, and with it an unprecedented interest in mechanical timepieces, re-editions of past timepieces wiggled their ways back into Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collection, providing flares of nostalgia along with a bit more diversity. One such timepiece is the Geophysic 1958. Let me tell you a bit about it.
Hermès Nautilus pen

Hermès Puts Pen To Paper With The Nautilus

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November 5, 2014
Hermès, whose 177-year-old roots are in saddles and harnesses, has “grown up” to become a multifaceted luxury brand whose oeuvre today includes leather goods, fragrances, serious watches . . . and now the new Nautilus pen collection, which was designed by Marc Newson in conjunction with Pierre-Alexis Dumas.
Romain Jerome CEO Manuel Emch with the Spacecraft

A Brief History Of Transportation Ending With The Romain Jerome Spacecraft

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November 4, 2014
Man’s journey through life has been millennia in the making, and it all started on those two little appendages at the bottom of our legs called feet. Now, thanks to some very passionate people over at Romain Jerome and the inspiration from the newest form of transportation – the spaceship – we have the appropriately called Spacecraft.
Horological Machine No. 6 on the wrist. Notice how the time and turbine spheres curve the case around the wrist

Heartbeat: Horological Machine No. 6 By MB&F

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November 4, 2014
I am a big fan of MB&F's crazy Horological Machines and think that they make world of watchmaking much, much richer. Despite that, I have had a hard time imagining one on my own average-sized, conservative wrist. Whereas previous Horological Machines have been high-tech, miniaturized machines, the curved case and eye-like domes make HM6 feel organic and corporeal. . . a nice, friendly and (despite the titanium case) soft animal begging to be touched.
The top prize of the Aiguille d'Or goes to the Breguet Classique Chronométrie

Reflections On The 2014 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève

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November 3, 2014
In this final round table discussion, my Quill & Pad colleagues Ian, Joshua, Gary and I discuss the amazing night that was. I am glad to talk about this incredible event and provide a few behind-the-scenes insights. Being on the jury for the third time in a row this year, I knew what to expect and could relax enough to enjoy the discussions and preparations.