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Glashütte Original PanoMaticInverse in red gold

Ode To Three-Quarters: The Glashütte Original PanoMaticInverse

GERMAN WATCH WEEK on Quill & Pad! Today, we examine the immaculately finished Glashütte Original PanoMaticInverse, a poetic ode to the three-quarter plate typical of German watchmaking.

Perfectly befitting the “made in Germany” aesthetic and demand on quality, this intriguing wristwatch’s ingenious movement contains unexpected technical elements in addition to what might well be termed a permanent state of #CasebackThursday.

This is the quintessential movement lover’s watch, especially if you love a dash of modesty along with your exuberance. The PanoMaticInverse is a splendor of restrained proportions, one to be proudly worn to show both a tick of flash and a tock of sensibility. It also happens to be a fantastic example of iconic German movement elements such as the three-quarter plate.

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A, Lange % Söhne 3/4 plate

How The Wall Came Tumbling Down: Made In Germany

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September 28, 2014
I clearly remember watching the history-altering events on television on November 9, 1989: the day that the Berlin Wall came tumbling down. Since then, watchmaking in Germany, just like the country as a whole, has undergone a lot of change. The rebirth of Glashütte’s horological industry is an unparalleled story, one coming with a great number of human-condition stories that will someday need lots of telling . . . and here is the first.
Pre-selected Mechanical Exception watches in the 2014 Grand Prix

Mechanical Exception Pre-Selected Watches: Round Table Discussion Of The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2014

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September 26, 2014
While this category in the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is called "Mechanical Exception," it could well be titled "exceptionally difficult to pick a winner." And that's because of the incredible selection of exceptional watches to choose from: Urwerk EMC, Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Tourbillon, MB&F Legacy Machine No. 2, Hublot, MP-05 LaFerrari, and Andreas Strehler Sauterelle à Lune Perpétuelle.
Richard Mille RM011 Orange Storm and White Ghost

Monthly News Roundup: Richard Mille, IWC, Vacheron Constantin, MB&F, HYT, Nomos, Jaquet Droz, Fonderie 47, And Moser & Cie

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September 26, 2014
This month’s news roundup includes a pair of limited edition humdingers by Richard Mille; an elegantly understated day-date by Vacheron Constantin; IWC’s Formula 1-powered new Ingenieur models; a complicated red gold timepiece by Fonderie 47; a black plastic rendition of MB&F’s HM5 called CarbonMacrolon; HYT’s latest collaborator; a Bauhaus beauty by Nomos; Jaquet Droz’s Enchanted Journey; Moser & Cie’s clever new tourbillon; and the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
The pre-selected calendar watches in the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Calendar Pre-Selected Watches: Round Table Discussion Of The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2014

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September 25, 2014
The pre-selected Calendar watches in the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève are as varied as they are superb: the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna, Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar, Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium, Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar and the Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse Ivory Enamel. Which would you choose?
A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 in red gold against the backdrop of Dresden’s Semper opera house

A. Lange & Söhne: From Dresden To Madison Avenue

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September 24, 2014
Ferdinand Adolph Lange had already been selling watches in Saxony's capital city Dresden since 1844. Follow us on a historical journey through nineteenth-century Dresden to lightly trace the footsteps of the Glashütte watch industry's founding father, which continues in the modern day with A. Lange & Söhne's new boutique on New York City's Madison Avenue.
The superb pen-work of The Writer by Jaquet Droz

Jaquet Droz’s Signing Machine: The Evolution Of Traditional Automata

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September 23, 2014
The claim to fame of Pierre Jaquet Droz (1721-1790) was his lifelike automata, also called androids. Continuing this long tradition, at Baselworld 2014 Jaquet Droz released an ultra-modern rendition of an automaton called the Writing Machine, which utilizes traditional techniques that have been miniaturized and modernized. CEO Marc Hayek explains the premise of this contemporary android.
Velsheda by Speake-Marin

Circadian Rhythms And The Mad Rush: Speake-Marin Velsheda

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September 21, 2014
The natural descendent of the Speake-Marin Shimoda model, the Velsheda is a one-handed watch. It tells the time to the nearest five minutes, but if you are wearing it, you may not even care. This watch uncouples you from the speedy second hand sweeping around the dial and even the noticeable crawl of the minute hand.
GPHG-2014-Chronographs

Chronograph Pre-Selected Watches: Round Table Discussion Of The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2014

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September 19, 2014
Our panel picks their favorite chronographs from those pre-selected in the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. There is a very strong line-up of chronographs this year: Montblanc TimeWalker 100 Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, Chopard L.U.C. 1963, Tudor Fastrider Black Shield, Zenith El Primero 410 and the De Bethune DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon.
The view through the display back, with the heat-blued screws, of the Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon is as beautiful as the dial side

Greubel Forsey And The Proverbial Loose Screw: An Anniversary Tale

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September 18, 2014
On this sunny day in the La Chaux-de-Fonds factory, which is half charming eighteenth-century farmhouse and half state-of-the-art technical facility, I was entirely surprised by having learned something new about one of Greubel Forsey’s production elements: screws. The subject came up in passing at lunch, sparking great passion in Forsey despite what might seem to be a miniscule topic to the uninitiated.
Preselected watches in the Men's category of the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Men’s Pre-Selected Watches: Round Table Discussion Of The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2014

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September 17, 2014
Here's what our panel thinks of the Men's watches pre-selelected for the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: Breguet Classique Chronométrie, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Central Second, MB&F LM 101, Tudor Heritage Black Bay, Omega Seamaster 300, and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. This category only allows men’s watches that do not have extra complications.
: Supporting the brand: group wristshot at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Costa Mesa OCNA event

Jaeger-LeCoultre Fights Ovarian Cancer With Collector Events

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September 16, 2014
I had the privilege of reporting on the wonderful project launched by photographer Howard Parr and supported by Jaeger-LeCoultre to advance the fight against the “silent killer” of women, ovarian cancer. Howard is also an avid Jaeger-LeCoultre collector. Jaeger-LeCoultre sponsored two Southern California receptions centered on Howard’s stirring photos of ovarian cancer survivors and benefitting the Ovarian Cancer National Alliance (OCNA).
Felix by Habring2

Habring2 Gets Happy (And Serious) With Felix, Featuring First Austrian Movement

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September 16, 2014
Felix is more than just a name. Felix is Latin for “happy” or “fortunate” and I feel that Maria and Richard Habring have found just the right moniker for their latest creation. At the same time, Felix proves that it’s entirely possible for a talented, small team to make a fully in-house manufacture movement at a fully affordable price.
Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Tourbillon

Belts, Belts, Belts. And The TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Tourbillon

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September 15, 2014
It all started in 2004 when TAG Heuer first released the Monaco V4, the first watch to be driven by belts instead of the conventional wheel and pinion. After ten years of experimentation and redesigns, the Monaco V4 Tourbillon was released in 2014 to much fanfare. The V4 has always held a special place in my heart, and with the release of the newly designed movement specifically for the V4 Tourbillon I wanted to break down why it is incredible.
GPHG 2014 Ladies High-Mech

Ladies High-Mech Pre-Selected: Round Table Discussion Of The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2014

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September 13, 2014
The Ladies High-Mech category is for "women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity." The key words here being "mechanical creativity and complexity." Our panel believes there is going to be a landslide and for good reason: nothing holds a candle to a certain highly complicated timepiece created for ladies.
The watches pre-selected in the category "Ladies" in the 2014  Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Pre-Selected Ladies: Round Table Discussion Of The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2014

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September 12, 2014
The watches in the Ladies category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève can only feature two of the following functions at most: date, power reserve, classic moon phase, and a second time zone. The watches may be adorned with a maximum of 5 carats of gemstones.