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The Speake-Marin Dong Son Tourbillon

Give Me Five! The AHCI Celebrates 30th Anniversary At Baselworld 2015

In 2015, the AHCI celebrates thirty years of existence. This is a genuine milestone for any organization, and is really a grand, grand accomplishment for a loose grouping of more than 30 artisans of varying nationality, background, and level of accomplishment.

Fifteen members of the Academy exhibited at the common booth of the 2015 edition of Baselworld: Svend Andersen, Robert Bray, Vincent Calabrese, Miki Eleta, Beat Haldimann, Frank Jutzi, Masahiro Kikuno, Sebastian Naeschke, Aniceto Pita, Antoine Preziuso, Andreas Strehler as well as candidates Hajime Asaoka, Xushu Ma, Ludovic Ballouard, and Andreas Fritsch. Asaoka and Ma were confirmed as full members during the general assembly held on Saturday evening.

Other AHCI members also had their own booths at Baselworld, among them Peter Speake-Marin, Konstantin Chaykin, Urwerk (Felix Baumgartner), and Marco Lang (Lang & Heyne). Here we present five watches by AHCI members we saw at Baselworld.


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The Romain Jerome Batman DNA shines the bat signal at night

Lighting Up With Lume At Baselworld 2015. Warning: Sunglasses Advised!

March 31, 2015
The bright spotlights of Baselworld 2015 lit up a plethora of eye-catching watches of every shape, color, and complication. However, it was only when the lights were turned down or off that a few of the timepieces showed that their dark sides were actually quite bright. Here are a few of the best lume-outfitted watches from Baselworld 2015 from Patek Philippe, Romain Jerome, Chopard, Valbray, Bell & Ross, Bulgari, and Glashütte Original.
Artemis Racing in action

Ulysse Nardin’s First Sponsorship: Artemis Racing, Iain Percy, And The America's Cup

March 31, 2015
Ulysse Nardin founded his company on the precision required for marine chronometers. So supporting a challenger for the 35th America’s Cup as its official partner more than makes sense, and supporting Artemis Racing makes the most sense of all.
Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity in black PVD-treated titanium

My Trip Back To The Beginning And Watch Mecca: Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity

March 29, 2015
The Vanguard Gravity checks all the boxes for Franck Muller awesomeness. It begins with the now-famous Cintrée Curvex case and the way that the curved case stands so proud yet feels so comfortable on the wrist, setting Franck Muller watches apart and doesn't end with its triple-axis tourbillon's amazing size.
The L.Roy Chronomètre à Tourbillon looks sensational movement side, with large balance and chain et fusée

Give Me Five! Dead Beat Seconds At Baselworld 2015

March 27, 2015
The dead beat seconds complication was developed so that the second hand on the wristwatch would move in the same way as a high-end, precious clock might. Dead beat seconds is a fairly rare addition to a watch movement in the modern age. In fact, it is almost never seen. Nevertheless, we found five watches outfitted with dead beat seconds at Baselworld 2015.
Lady 8 Flower by Jaquet Droz

Jaquet Droz In Bloom: The Astonishing Lady 8 Flower Automat

March 26, 2015
The Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower incorporates a rare mechanical element that the brand is famous for: the automat. The astonishing automat is a surprising touch that delights and entices, once again reinforcing the original thoughts of the very creative Pierre Jaquet Droz. Prepare to be amazed.
Corum Bubble

The Corum Bubble Is Back!

March 25, 2015
In 2015, the Bubble, now 15 years old, makes a reappearance in Corum's Heritage collection. Like other Heritage timepieces, the new Bubble is not simply a replica of what was. Naturally, it has been slightly altered to fit the times, which lends it a whole new proportion. It's both bigger and funkier than ever.
Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock

Fabergé Inaugurates Rebirth With Exceptional Lady Compliquée

March 24, 2015
Baselworld 2015 marks a rebirth for Fabergé that includes several important elements such as high jewelry, an original imperial-style egg, and a full collection of watches. The latter includes the stunning Lady Compliquée Peacock and Lady Compliquée Winter.
Side view of Opera by Manufacture Royale

Opera And Manufacture Royale: Performance Art At The Highest Level

March 22, 2015
Manufacture Royale's most controversial, and undoubtedly most incredible, piece is the highly complicated Opera, which features a minute repeater, tourbillon, and, most anachronistically, a hinged telescoping case. Basically, it’s big, it’s bold, and it rocks. And like the opera (theater), the Opera (watch) is not for everybody. But those that like it love it. I love it.
Shabaka by Jean Dunand

Jean Dunand’s Shabaka Returns

March 21, 2015
The Jean Dunand Shabaka, named for a twenty-fifth dynasty pharaoh of Egypt, was an Art Deco-inspired watch that could be customized, but its shaped case and unusual displays comprising cylinder rolls was not easily combined with stones and the type of dials that were common on the already-released Tourbillon Orbital. The new Shabaka is presented for the first time in a round 47 mm case – perfect for combining with artisanal dials.
Memoris by Louis Moinet

Memoris By Louis Moinet: Paying Homage To Historical Chronographic Ingenuity

March 19, 2015
The new Louis Moinet Memoris places emphasis on the chronograph function rather than the time-telling displays. CEO and creative director Jean-Marie Schaller has an interesting viewpoint: not to see the chronograph as a complication here, but rather as the primary function: he says it is a “watch chronograph” rather than a “watch.”
Slim d’Hermès Perpetual in red gold

Introducing Slim d’Hermès: The Elegant New Backbone Of The Hermès Collection

March 18, 2015
Philippe Delhotal, creative director of La Montre Hermès, looked a bit apprehensive as he pulled out his new line to show me. He hadn’t had much feedback from anyone outside La Montre Hermès yet, and he was probably more than curious to know what others would think. Still, he needn’t have worried. The Slim d’Hermès is . . . well, really so Hermès; the perfect synthesis of the things that Hermès does so well. Which means that it is by no means ordinary and beyond perfect in every detail while remaining eminently wearable.
Timeburner by Miki Eleta, powered by Marc Jenni

Miki Eleta’s Timeburner: A Salute To Noise, Grease, Chrome, And A Special BMW Motorbike

March 18, 2015
Timeburner represents the first instance of two AHCI members − Miki Electa and Marc Jenni − publicly working together. Eleta (clockmaker/kinetic artist) came up with the concept and created a functioning prototype, while Jenni (watchmaker) developed and produces the production models. Miki Eleta's name is on the dial, while the back of the nicely modified Unitas movement is engraved "Powered by Marc Jenni."
Parting shot: Duality by Philippe Dufour

Behind The Lens: Philippe Dufour Duality

March 16, 2015
For this edition of Behind the Lens, I'm sharing a series of photographs of one of the great watches of our time, the Philippe Dufour Duality. The Duality, with its linked twin escapements, was originally planned for production in a series of 25 watches. In a turn of events that seems almost unbelievable today, a lack of initial demand eventually led Dufour to limit production to just nine pieces, one of which is owned by a good friend of mine.
De Bethune DB28 GS

Everything Is Possible: De Bethune DB28 GS

March 15, 2015
Science fiction asks that you remember those that tell you “it can’t be done” are right . . . if you believe them. Never believe them. The watch I want to focus on today is from a brand that always brings its A-game. This brand is a science-fictionalist. This brand is De Bethune. And the watch we're talking about here is the DB28 GS.
Pagani Huayra

Does My (Super)Butt Look Big In Carbon Fiber? You Decide

March 14, 2015
Sunday, the 15th of March, was the last day of the 85th Geneva International Car Show. You might call the last day of the show the "butt end." I would never use such a term myself, but you might − so what butter, uh, better way to celebrate than a lineup of superbutts; eight perfectly polished posteriors for your personal perusal.