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The Zenith Academy Favre Jacot

Monthly News Roundup: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin, IWC, Vogard, Zenith, Nomos, Armin Strom, Linde Werdelin And More

This month’s news roundup includes a big announcement by Vogard; an unexpectedly high auction sale of a 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Chronomètre; a beautifully enameled new model called the Classico Cloisonné Amerigo Vespucci by Ulysse Nardin; a highly complicated celebratory timepiece by Zenith; Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt wins an important entrepreneurial award; a gorgeously innovative new Pure Skeleton by Armin Strom; and a high-tech carbon case from Linde Werdelin.

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Carefully placing the movement of the Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 into its case from the back

Photo Essay: Casing A Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Chocolate

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November 27, 2014
The days getting shorter and the nights much cooler remind us that the holidays are fast approaching, so it's the perfect time to have a close look at a watch that would look great under under any angel-topped, tinsel-covered tree: the Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Chocolate.
Bright lume on the Rolex Submariner 5512

Afterglow: A 1967 Rolex Submariner Reference 5512 With Still-Radiant Zinc Sulfide Markers

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November 25, 2014
I recall when I first found a Rolex Submariner 5512 with zinc sulfide on the dial. It led to a major discussion on an Internet forum about whether the dial had been re-lumed or not. Well, years later, we know a lot more; and one thing that is now certain is that the dial had not been re-lumed, but that it was an original zinc sulfide dial.
Vintage watch specialist, Boris Pjanic

Meet Quill & Pad’s Vintage Virtuoso: Boris Pjanic, An Expert In ‘Pre-Loved’ Rolex

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November 25, 2014
Boris Pjanic does not come from a family of retailers or jewelers, the watch collecting bug simply bit him at some point. “I carried this passion deep inside me for years before finally admitting to collecting rare vintage watches and even trading them among a very knowledgeable clientele out loud,” he confesses.
Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Guide

Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Guide

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November 24, 2014
Still looking for the perfect Christmas gift for your favorite WIS, collector, or watch lover? Look no further than the ultimate Omega Speedmaster reference book ‘Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Guide.’
4N

The Jump Hour: A Love Story

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November 23, 2014
The jump hour has a long history, but first things first, it can’t technically be called a complication since the accepted definition of complication is a mechanism that provides information other than the time. However, anyone who gives a hoot will say in the same breath that there are many complications that don’t fit that definition. And I couldn’t agree more.
Standing on the outside looking in towards the Rille Mille boutique in Mayfair, London

The Richard Mille Boutique In Mayfair, London

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November 20, 2014
It's no surprise that it took Richard Mille many years to find a suitable location for a flagship London boutique: the brand was not looking for the right space in London, it was looking in the right space in Mayfair. And in 90 Mount Street, Mayfair, London, Richard Mille found it. Like many (though certainly not all) of the luxury brands in the area, the Richard Mille boutique is relatively unassuming from the outside. However, two large, frosted images of Richard Mille's instantly-recognizable, tonneau-shaped case on the front windows provide a fairly substantial clue for those familiar with the brand.
Everose

Spending Time With The Most Complicated In-House Rolex: The Sky-Dweller

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November 19, 2014
I recently had the superb opportunity to try out the most complicated wristwatch made at modern-day Rolex for a week: the Sky-Dweller. The Sky-Dweller hides its complexity in the simplicity of using it: despite being complicated, the Sky-Dweller is an extremely practical timepiece that takes the businesslike philosophy that Rolex habitually utilizes to new “heights” by adding an interface like a function selector for setting and adjusting the time zones and annual calendar.
The Urwerk UR-110 "Eastwood" with Ebony bezel and Duke of Windsor tweed strap. The triangles are tailor's chalk for marking cloth

The Urwerk UR-110 Eastwood: A Tailor-Made Farewell Of Timber And Tweed

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November 19, 2014
The fact is that Urwerk is a small brand, albeit an extremely imaginative and talented small brand, with very limited resources available. That means that if Urwerk wants to use resources to develop and produce a new model, it first has to stop producing one of the older models. So unfortunately it's soon to be bye-bye to the UR-110. But fortunately it's hello to the final UR-110 model: the "Eastwood"!
HYT H1 Alumen Blue. The case is in ALUN 316B, a new alloy made from aluminium, magnesium, titanium and zirconium

When Opposites Collide: Microfluidics Of The HYT H1 And H2

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November 17, 2014
The HYT H1 and H2 have changed the landscape of what many thought possible in mechanical watches, and they may have even inspired other talented watchmakers to think outside the box in mixing unusual things with the old-school mechanics inside their timepieces. A lot of this is due to the incredible quality with which it was done, and the other is the sheer engineering that went into the concept.
Hermès watch display case at SalonQP 2014

Heartbeat: Hermès' Eye-Catching Displays At SalonQP 2014

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November 15, 2014
SalonQP isn't simply a watch exhibition: it's a watch exhibition inside an art gallery (the Saatchi Gallery), a setting that both the defines and enriches the brands and watches on display. And Hermès, very cleverly and very creatively, especially attracted visitors' attention at SalonQP.
Philippe Dufour (left) and Henry-John Belmont

Philippe Dufour And Henry-John Belmont Win FHH Homage To 'Passion' And 'Talent' Awards

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November 14, 2014
This young award is just barely three years old, but indeed it has already managed to reward some of the greatest personalities in the world of watches for their “passion” and “talent” – which are undeniably the most essential ingredients for the finest watchmaking. A jury from the Cultural Council of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) honored two exceptional personalities in 2014: Philippe Dufour for his "talent" and Henry-John Belmont for his "passion."
"Le Vautour" and "Le Chef" Petite Heure Minutes by Jaquet Droz in homage to the Bejart Ballet

Béjart Ballet Glissades Its Way Onto The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute In Tokyo

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November 12, 2014
Earlier in 2014, Jaquet Droz announced a partnership with Lausanne’s Béjart Ballet. A ballet dancer perfectly masters the movements of his or her body, which makes for perfect allegory to Pierre Jaquet Droz’s lifelike mechanical androids using flow, flux, movement, and human expression through motion. Meet The Vulture and The Chief, two extraordinarily artistic Jaquet Droz timepieces paying homage to the dance.
SalonQP 2014

Roundup of SalonQP 2014: London's Premier Watch Exhibition

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November 11, 2014
SalonQP, London's premier watch exhibition, ran from the 6th through the 8th of November 2014 at the prestigious Saatchi Art Gallery in central London. It was bigger and better than ever in terms of both size and visitor numbers. Read on for more than just a few reasons (and lots of photos) why SalonQP is my favorite watch exhibition.
Metal lace: looking through the movement of the Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette

Why I Bought It: Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette

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November 10, 2014
Once upon a time, in a small watch shop in a (relatively) small California town, there was a watch display case. This was before I really knew much at all about Vacheron Constantin as a brand and company. There was a display case. And a watch: the Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette.
Breguet Tradition Fusée Tourbillon in red gold

Déjà, Jamais, And Presque Vu: All Thanks To The Breguet Tradition 7047 Fusée Tourbillon

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November 9, 2014
The Tradition Fusée Tourbillon is the most incredible modern Breguet that I have ever seen. I make no claims as to its innovation, its complexity, or its everyday wearability. I simply make the claim that if you wanted a true Breguet timepiece with all of the brand’s history rolled into one, the 7047 would be the one.