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Creating a watch like the Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos is walking a thin line, but it perfectly demonstrates how whimsical haute horlogerie can become. It is the eye for detail and the execution of those details that make the difference. Happy Halloween!
Colin Alexander Smith’s journey into what some call “watch fettling” began with a case of cat-killing curiosity: one of the subdial hands on a cheap watch had come loose, bringing it to a halt. That led him down a horological rabbit hole. Here he explains why you might want to consider a similar path.
If you do not know what black pudding is you may be thinking a decadent dessert, perhaps a very dark chocolate cake type of thing. If you do know what it is then you are either suddenly thinking of how delicious it is and how long before you can next enjoy one or you are running for the hills, thinking how utterly disgusting and how on earth could anyone even look at one, let alone eat it. Here is all you ever needed to know about black pudding.
Tutima has one leg in the realm of fine watchmaking and the other firmly placed in its lower to mid-priced Grand Flieger collection, composed of German pilot-style watches. Bhanu Chopra visited the Tutima manufacture in Glashütte, Germany for a closer look at how this duality works and what role it plays in the company’s history.
The Bulgari Octo Roma Worldtimer is delightfully down to earth. It might not be the thinnest, most complex, or rarest watch in the collection, but, boy, it is good looking! In Martin Green’s estimation, it is one of those rare watches where everything simply falls into place.
Mumm Champagne has wonderful history, but then for a period it seemed to descend into little more than a discount producer. More recently, there appeared to be a serious intent to return to the glory days when this house was seen as one of the greats. Ken Gargett thinks that Mumm’s RSRV R. Lalou 2006 is a revelation. Rich and complex with honeycomb notes and some butterscotch. Great length. Finely balanced.
It’s no secret: GaryG is an immense admirer of Philippe Dufour. Part of greatness, of course, is leaving a legacy; not only through one’s works, but in the skills and inspiration passed on to those who follow, which Dufour has liberally done. But who, if anyone, will history regard as the lineal heir to the Dufour tradition? Gary has reached what may seem a counterintuitive conclusion: Romain Gauthier.
One thing that doesn’t change as you travel in the same hemisphere (and only travel east/west) is the night sky. It unites us. And combining watchmaking, travel, and the night sky is a terrific trifecta. The De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius is an incredible synthesis of what makes this brand so great.
Cracking the seal on the box of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye revealed a deep and constantly shifting play of light as the stone dial caught the afternoon light coming in through the window. Over the days that GaryG had the watch for shooting, it became his quest to capture the variety of moods conjured up by this dial. And we think he has done just that.
As traveling once again becomes an option, it’s a good time to dust off our travel watches or mark the occasion with a new one. And a good start is the recently introduced BR 03-93 GMT from Bell & Ross. While it follows in the footsteps of the watch with the same name launched in 2016, the updated version includes a bidirectional bezel instead of the previously fixed one and a bolder dial/bezel design.
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