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GaryG has already written about the struggles that independent watchmakers face simply to survive. Expressing oneself through horological art may well be a noble calling, but it’s definitely one of the tougher ways to make a living. Chanel’s very recent investment in F.P. Journe caused Gary to think about the pros and cons of outside investment into indies and he shares his thoughts here.
As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, Martin Green feels that the time is soon approaching to write an obituary announcing the death of the dress watch. He thinks that its passing is coming and it’s not an isolated event, but it still hurts.
Why watches? Ask what makes a watch enthusiast tick and the idea of the “soul” of a watch might well feature in the response – the idea that something elevates the watch from a cold object of engineering to something of greater import. Here Ryan tracks “soul” down and gets contemplative on its nature along with some very special imagery.
The political scene in Germany currently shares a number of issues with other countries around the world, including the rise of the extreme right. Without going into the politics, Elizabeth Doerr highlights this particular interview with Nomos Glashütte managing director Judith Borowski because she feels it is incredibly courageous for a manufacturer to clearly state a definitive side and speak out on what it thinks is right (and wrong), despite the fact that might cause a few potential customers to look elsewhere for their watches.
Martin Green has a confession: he has never understood why somebody would buy a watch from an esteemed brand and then have it “customized.” However, when it comes to companies customizing watches, the Bamford Watch Department is in a league of its own. How and why did LVMH join forces with it? And how does Martin feel about this team-up?
In the early 1990s, WMMT was facing the same dilemma as today: modern or vintage? Problem was that modern watches actually all looked vintage, right down to the sizes. There was something lacking. Enter Vianney Halter in 1998 with the Antiqua Perpetual. And then what happened next: the birth of ICH (“Independent Creative Horology”).
Following the recent article on silicon balance springs by watchmaker Ashton Tracy called ‘Is Silicon Here To Stay In (Rolex) Watch Movements?’ Timothy Treffry decided to take a closer, more technical look at the intriguing silicon material from which the components are made.
Watch collecting should be fun! Yes, it’s important to show the proper respect for the designers and makers of the watches we all love, but at the same time I think it’s completely appropriate to go beyond somber and traditional daily watches and give a bit of free rein to one’s desire for more flamboyant timepieces.
If fewer people appreciate superlative hand-finishing, then fewer will pay for superlative hand-finishing, so there is likely to be less superlative hand-finishing on offer. Appreciate away!
Hairsprings are miniscule. Generally no more than one centimeter in overall diameter when coiled, they are roughly 50 microns thick and 150 microns wide. Tiny they may be, but insignificant they are not. In fact, they are so significant that Rolex refers to them as “the guardians of time.” But what do silicon hairsprings bring to the table? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why he went from skeptic to fan.
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