Quill & Pad
  • Home
  • Articles
  • About
  • Glossary
  • Contact
  • Click to open the search input field Click to open the search input field Search
  • Menu Menu

Why We Are In A Golden Age For Appreciating Superlative Hand-Finishing In Wristwatches (Archive)

by Ian Skellern

If fewer people appreciate superlative hand-finishing, then fewer will pay for superlative hand-finishing, so there is likely to be less superlative hand-finishing on offer. Appreciate away!

Movement detail of the Philippe Dufour Duality

Movement detail of the Philippe Dufour Duality

We are in a golden age of appreciating superlative hand-finishing because . . .

We are in a golden age of appreciating superlative hand-finishing because of three factors, and these are all absolutely essential:

  • Audience (people to appreciate)
  • Information (knowledge is essential to appreciation)
  • Superlative hand-finishing included in some products (superlative as meaning “surpassing all else”)
Flat polished screw heads with polished bevels and countersinks visible through the display back of this Greubel Forsey Double Balancier

Flat polished screw heads with polished bevels and countersinks visible through the display back of this Greubel Forsey Double Balancier

Audience

It is absolutely no use making anything from a commercial perspective if nobody knows your product exists. And if something is not approached from at least a somewhat commercial perspective then we are unlikely to see much of the product. No matter how great the art or craft is, if the world doesn’t know it exists, then that art or craft is unlikely to thrive.

The internet has enabled a significant percentage of the world’s population access to relatively arcane and esoteric information like watches and horology. Thanks first to discussion forums, then blogs, and now social media, there is a potential global online audience for anything interesting, informative, or entertaining enough to catch our attention.

The internet has made a large appreciate audience for superlative hand-finishing possible. And the internet isn’t likely to be going anywhere soon, so this looks to remain a relatively stable factor in the future.

Mine at last: the Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 in red gold

Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 in red gold

Information

We have our potential audience, but it now needs to be educated to be an “appreciative” audience. And for that we have to thank the internet again. We (ourselves, brands, and even individual watchmakers) can share information among each other in real time (or not far off from it) using blogs and social media. And offline we have more magazines and events than ever before.

Then we have digital photography and smartphones, which have made sharing high-quality photos (even macro) and, more recently, videos relatively easily (though this still takes considerable practice to do well).

So thanks to the internet, digital photography, and smartphones we have an educated audience for appreciating wristwatches featuring “superlative hand-finishing.”

Kari Voutilainen Vingt-8 Sarasamon with dial from Unryuan studio in Japan. The Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku lacquering of this dial takes months to complete and uses gold dust), gold leaf, great green turban (a snail) shell and abalone shell from New Zealand

Kari Voutilainen Vingt-8 Sarasamon with dial from Unryuan studio in Japan

Superlative hand-finishing

Then there is the factor of the superlative hand-finishing itself. While opinions may differ − who am I kidding, opinions will certainly differ − I’d credit the launch of Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity and the Independent forum on ThePuristS (which was my horological home for many years) as bringing this subject to the attention of an (at the time nascent) global horological audience, including both excellence in finishing and why it’s something worthy of note.

While I know mentioning anyone is likely to annoy even more people not mentioned, in addition to the best hand-finishing from haute horlogerie brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, we also have smaller players including Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, Jean Daniel Nicolas (Daniel Roth), Romain Gauthier, and Greubel Forsey to name just a few. These brands are ensuring that the knowledge of the craft of superlative hand-finishing burns brightly.

The stunning view through the display back of a Kari Voutilainen Observatoire

The stunning view through the display back of a Kari Voutilainen Observatoire

What could possibly go wrong?

So we have a large audience with easy access to information and quite a few watchmakers offering fantastic levels of finish. What could possibly go wrong? And why might that change?

One of the key factors (if not THE key factor) to note in this discussion is that at present, the very best hand-finished watch movements are the very best finished watch movements period.

The central flying tourbillon of the Haldimann H1

The central flying tourbillon of the Haldimann H1

Machines good, man better

Machines cannot finish watch components as finely, as subtly, or as distinctly as talented men and women with a file. And that’s down to one main technological constraint: the business end of machines (meaning the tools doing the milling or polishing) spin, rotating at high speed.

In comparison, human hand-finishing uses a reciprocal back and forth motion.

The rotary motion of machines means that small vertical lines can be seen on any machine-polished anglage, AND spinning tools cannot polish a sharp internal angle. Which is why so many brands that put emphasis on superlative hand-finish deliberately design movement bridges and plates to include multiple internal angles.

So until now, only the human touch offers the very best movement finishing.

Just a few of the critical points that have to be carefully hand finished on this lower constant force bridge for Romain Gauthier's Logical One

Just a few of the critical points that have to be carefully hand finished on this lower constant force bridge for Romain Gauthier’s Logical One

What if?

But what if that wasn’t the case in the future? What if somebody developed a CNC tool with a reciprocal motion? Then there would be no impediment to machines creating fine finishes at least to the stand of the best human hands and likely much better.

Superlatively hand-finished watches are expensive. Very expensive because hand-finishing is very labor-intensive and the skill is relatively rare.

But collectors, who both appreciate superlative hand-finishing and can afford it, can justify (at least partially) their purchases because they can be confident in having not just the best hand-finishing, but the best finishing altogether.

However, if − and I’m tempted to use “when” instead of “if” as it is surely just a matter of time − machines can finish better, can we be confident that as many collectors will be willing to pay as much for what is not no longer the world’s best finishing, but only the best hand-finishing?

I doubt it.

Vinyl records survive not (just) simply because of nostalgia, as powerful as that is, but because the quality of the music is significantly better than the mp3 format of most digital music. Whether the listener has a fine enough ear to hear or appreciate the difference between the music formats is neither here nor there. The fact is that records do offer (when partnered with a good turntable and amplifier) a much better quality sound than mp3.

Up close and personal: Philippe Dufour Duality dial

Up close and personal: Philippe Dufour Duality dial

Luxury: a mitigating factor?

Now, a few astute readers may bring up the very valid and pertinent point that watch brands are no longer selling the best of anything, but rather “luxury,” an altogether more intangible feature.

Even the very best modern mechanical wristwatches are nowhere near the accuracy or reliability of (much cheaper) quartz models. But the industry is thriving (at least over the medium to long term) because collectors are buying luxury rather than practicality.

And I get that. However, superlative hand finishing has become an essential factor in the highest-end timepieces, and if the meaning of superlative changes from “surpassing all else” to “surpassing all else except the ubiquitous mechanical finishes found on much cheaper watches” then I can’t help but feel that the appreciate audience that is so essential for superlative hand-finishing to maintain its present size is likely to shrink.

And if the audience − meaning potential market − shrinks, then the number of superlatively finished watches is likely to shrink, which will lead to fewer watchmakers and brands dedicating resources to creating the very best hand-finishing.

Which is why I think that we may be in a golden age for appreciating superlative hand-finishing in that we have the access, the information, and the hand-finished watches themselves.

Please note that I am not predicting the end of beautifully hand-finished watches, as there will (hopefully) always be a few watchmakers who will want to excel, but probably not as many as now. And there are not that many now.

Long may this golden period of hand-finishing last . . . because it is likely to come to an end, and the end may be sooner rather than later.

Exquisite tourbillon details of the Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon by Mr. Daniel Roth. You can just make out the gold second hand on the left of tourbillon cage pointing to 60 and the blued-steel hand on the right pointing to 0.

Exquisite tourbillon details of the Jean Daniel Nicolas Two-Minute Tourbillon by Mr. Daniel Roth

You might also enjoy:
Does Hand Finishing Matter? A Collector’s View Of Movement Decoration
Why Philippe Dufour Matters. And It’s Not A Secret
Objects Of Desire: Greubel Forsey
Behind The Lens: Philippe Dufour Duality
Why I Bought It: Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1
Why Do Ultra-High-End Watches Cost So Much? Hand-Finishing At Romain Gauthier Sheds Some Light

* This article was first published on October 27, 2015 at Why We Are In A Golden Age For Appreciating Superlative Hand-Finishing In Wristwatches. You might find some of the comments under that interesting.

2 replies
  1. Shayne Corritori
    Shayne Corritori says:
    March 5, 2018 at 5:49 pm

    I was waiting for you to mention A. Lange & Söhne. You see, I really think that you just cannot price things so high without touching upon every little detail. In the end, that is one of my reasons for a bit of disdaine I show towards Patek Philippe. I do not deny that Patek makes absolutely excellent watches but, here and there I hear things about stamped cases and I have personally seen the minimal finishing techniques Patek uses for movements and dials and cases (correct me if I am wrong). I have accepted that I can’t afford any watch well over 1 or 2 thousand dollars (and that is only for the highest of special occasions) but, when I see those prices, I still feel a need to see that the watch would be totally “worth it”. Great article Mr. Skellern

    Reply
    • Ian Skellern
      Ian Skellern says:
      March 5, 2018 at 6:03 pm

      I only neglected to mention A. Lange & Söhne because I couldn’t mention all who who deserved it, but agree with you 100% that Lange’s finishing is first class, and that you have to spend a lot of money on a Patek Philippe to get the superlative hand work I refer to in this article.

      Reply

Leave a Reply

Want to join the discussion?
Feel free to contribute!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Categories

  • Watch Brands & Horology
    • New for 2025
    • New for 2024
    • New for 2023
    • Affordable Luxury
      • Swatch
      • Ball Watch
      • Louis Erard
      • Gorilla Fastback
      • Ikepod
      • Oris
      • Reservoir
    • Auctions
    • Behind the Lens
    • Boutiques
    • Collectors and Collecting
    • Events, Fairs & Exhibitions
    • Give Me Five!
    • History
    • Quill & Pad
    • Round Table
    • The Naked Watchmaker
    • Thoughts & Opinion
    • Video
    • WatchCharts
    • Wrist Watching
    • A. Lange & Söhne
    • AHCI
    • Akrivia
    • Andersen Genève
    • Alexandre Meerson
    • Andreas Strehler
    • Angelus
    • Antoine Martin
    • Antoine Preziuso
    • Armin Strom
    • Arnold & Son
    • Audemars Piguet
      • Royal Oak Offshore
    • Bélier
    • Bell & Ross
    • Blancpain
    • Bovet
    • Breguet
    • Bremont
    • Breitling
    • Bulgari
    • Carl F. Bucherer
    • Cartier
    • Chanel
    • Chopard
    • Christiaan Van Der Klaauw
    • Christophe Claret
    • Chronoswiss
    • Clocks
    • Corum
    • Cyrus
    • Czapek & Cie
    • De Bethune
    • de Grisogono
    • Derek Pratt
    • Dior
    • Divers' Watches
    • Eberhard
    • Emmanuel Bouchet
    • Fabergé
    • Ferdinand Berthoud
    • Fiona Krüger
    • F.P. Journe
    • Franck Muller
    • Garrick
    • Gérald Genta
    • Girard-Perregaux
    • Glashütte Original
    • GoS
    • Graff
    • Graham
    • Greubel Forsey
    • Grieb & Benzinger
    • Grönefeld
    • H. Moser & Cie
    • Habring2
    • Hajime Asaoka
    • Harry Winston
    • Hautlence
    • Hermès
    • Hublot
    • HYT
    • Independents
    • IWC
    • Jaeger-LeCoultre
    • Jaquet Droz
    • Jean Daniel Nicolas
    • Jean Dunand
    • Kari Voutilainen
    • Kees Engelbarts
    • Kobold
    • Konstantin Chaykin
    • Kudoke
    • Ladies watches
    • Lang & Heyne
    • Laurent Ferrier
    • Linde Werdelin
    • Louis Moinet
    • Louis Vuitton
    • Ludovic Ballouard
    • Manufacture Royale
    • Maurice Lacroix
    • MB&F
    • McGonigle
    • Ming Watches
    • Montblanc
    • Moritz Grossmann
    • Nomos Glashütte
    • Ochs und Junior
    • Officine Panerai
    • Omega
    • Parmigiani
    • Patek Philippe
    • Paul Gerber
    • Philippe Dufour
    • Piaget
    • Pocket watches
    • Rebellion
    • Ressence
    • RGM
    • Richard Mille
    • Roger Dubuis
    • Roger W Smith
    • Roland Iten
    • Rolex
    • Romain Gauthier
    • Romain Jerome
    • Sarpaneva
    • Schwarz-Etienne
    • Seiko
    • Silberstein
    • Singer Reimagined
    • Soviet / Eastern Europe watches
    • Speake-Marin
    • Struthers
    • Tag Heuer
    • Tudor
    • Tutima
    • Ulysse Nardin
    • Urban Jürgensen
    • Urwerk
    • Vacheron Constantin
    • Van Cleef & Arpels
    • Vianney Halter
    • Vintage
    • Wempe Glashütte
    • Zenith
  • Luxury, Experiences, Science & Nature
    • Arts
    • Book reviews
    • Cars
      • Porsche
    • Fashion & Grooming
    • Jewelry
    • Nature
    • Photo Captions
    • Photography
    • Science
    • Shoes
    • Sports
    • Technology
    • Travel
    • Wining, Dining and Cigars
    • Writing instruments
      • Caran d’Ache
      • Grayson Tighe
      • Montblanc
      • Montegrappa
  • General
    • Featured
    • Highlights
© Copyright - Quill & Pad - Enfold Theme by Kriesi
Scroll to top Scroll to top Scroll to top
We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. By clicking “Accept”, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies.
Do not sell my personal information.
Cookie SettingsAccept
Manage consent

Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously.
CookieDurationDescription
cookielawinfo-checkbox-analytics11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-functional11 monthsThe cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-others11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy11 monthsThe cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.
Functional
Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features.
Performance
Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
Analytics
Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.
Advertisement
Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads.
Others
Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet.
SAVE & ACCEPT