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Given my recent musings on these pages about the relative roles of rarity and complication in driving the value of a watch, it seems appropriate to dedicate this âBehind the Lensâ entry to a piece that is both complicated and limited in production: Patek Philippeâs Reference 5950A. Whatâs so special about this watch? Well, first of all itâs a split-seconds chronograph. What else?
The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Rally Timer is a bit of a transformer as it has six main configurations, including a wristwatch that can be oriented to any angle, fob watch, desk clock, and sport or rally timing stopwatch.
It starts out as a wristwatch with the crown at 12 oâclock, but a 180-degree rotating case means it doesnât have to stay that way. Let’s delve into what else it can do!
When we talk about the age of a watch model, Cartierâs Tank deserves the place of honor. With its instantly recognizable rectangular case, this chic timepiece debuted in 1917, exactly 100 years ago. The watch has been in existence for an entire century! And now Cartier releases some new versions to celebrate.
Montblanc presents a brand-new look and concept for its 1858 collection of 2018, which now exudes a distinct outdoorsy vibe. The main message here is a clearer, more simplified concept, integrating the outdoors and the idea of a more natural lifestyle into the new watches. What do you think?
For a niche brand yet to celebrate its third birthday, Ferdinand Berthoud has made quite a horological impact: its ChronomĂ©trie Ferdinand Berthoud FB1 won the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de GenĂšve. And now for 2018, the nascent brand presents an interesting and well-finished regulator: the ChronomĂštre FB 1R.6-1.
As the basis for an ultra-light, ultra-shock-resistant watch, you could do far worse than TPT Carbon, but the outside case is just the beginning for the Richard Mille RM 53-01. Inside, the movement is something out of industrial engineering handbooks. And that’s important because it is engineered to be worn on the polo field, where one of the most brutal sports around is played.
What is the most precious element of any watch brand? Its manufacture? Its skilled employees? Its brand ambassadors? Its boutiques? Martin Green thinks that it’s none of those, because the most important asset of a brand is its so-called DNA. Here he explains how brands better used their DNA at the 2018 SIHH.
The ‘Superbia Humanitatis’ Louis-ElysĂ©e Piguet/Franck Muller/Paul Gerber super complication is one of the most legendary watches of our time. And what a story! And here it is in its entirety: from 1892 when Piguet made the movement through 1992 when Franck Muller altered it, all the way through the present day when Paul Gerber altered it three more times to make it the most complicated wristwatch in the world.
When it comes to pilot’s watches, IWC pretty much coined the term. However, as Martin Green reports, where the former IWC Top Gun watches were generally well received, the Top Gun Miramar changed things up a bit, and the result was far more polarizing. Find out much more about the histories of Top Gun, Miramar, and IWC pilot’s watches in this story.
In 1815, King Louis XVIII appointed a new ‘Horloger de la Marine’: Abraham-Louis Breguet. Martin Green thinks it was somewhat ironic that until then Breguet had never really made marine chronometers. That soon changed.
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