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The “unobtanium” phenomenon isn’t limited to watches from the past, there are a variety of references for which supply seems to lag demand. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the current market for select steel sports watches. Here GaryG highlights some interesting dynamics caused by that imbalance, led by a loud chorus of complaints from prospective buyers.
The majority of today’s numerous flieger-style watches are inspired by the now-iconic German pilot’s and navigator’s watches of World War II, becoming a genre unto themselves. Bhanu Chopra flies high to take a deep dive into the long history of this popular style.
Meet Caran d’Ache, a fully Swiss made, completely traditional pen and pencil manufacture located right in the heart of Geneva. This family-owned, family-run business operates like a watch manufacture. Indeed, the haute écriture products emerging from the workshops are at times comparable as unique works of art. Like the just plain amazing Caelograph, which allows one to see the position of the stars and the constellations.
Ah, Paris! City of Lights, Paname, Babylon on the Seine – no matter how one refers to it, there is nothing remotely like it. For the watch collector, it’s a great place to visit as well with boutiques aplenty, some owned and operated by the major brands; high-end mega-stores like Bucherer; and smaller independent retailers like Chronopassion and Dubail. Recently, I took a quick weekend trip to Paris and while there I took the opportunity to pack in as much fun as possible. Come along with me and join in!
The Goodwood Festival of Speed is an automotive pilgrimage; it is to cars what Glastonbury is to music. My father and I have often made the journey from our respective homes in Sussex and Oxfordshire to meet on the Friday, the opening day of the festival, to see the amazing spectacle that takes place at this hill climb. And, of course, what watches did I see at the event?
Calculating large numbers is a pain if all you have handy is your brain and a pencil. This is why people have created systems and objects to make the process easier. The Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpétuel à Équation has a mechanical computer that calculates the dates for the perpetual calendar and equation of time. This is a complete departure from the traditional perpetual calendar mechanism.
Our panel members choose their winners in the Chronograph category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie between the Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar, Montblanc’s 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition, Zenith’s El Primero 36’000 VPH, and the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire.
I know of only three watchmakers making watches by hand today: one is Michel Boulanger for Naissance d’une Montre. The other two are Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, who are hand-making watches they call l’Instant de Vérité under the umbrella of their own micro brand Oscillon. And what a watch this is!
What is the most precious element of any watch brand? Its manufacture? Its skilled employees? Its brand ambassadors? Its boutiques? Martin Green thinks that it’s none of those, because the most important asset of a brand is its so-called DNA. Here he explains how brands better used their DNA at the 2018 SIHH.
Welcome to the 2018 edition of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions in which the team picks favorites and explains why. The finalists in the Men’s category are: the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain, De Bethune Steel Wheels, H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flying Hours, MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement, Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendrier 1942, and Kari Voutilainen’s 217QRS. And the panel seems to have a preference!
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