In the past months the watch industry has witnessed a surprising (yet not new) trend: the triumph of stainless steel in the high-end sector. Over the last year, several luxury brands have launched entirely new timepieces fully clad in steel, among them A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus and Chopard’s Alpine Eagle. Combining luxurious appeal and hardy resilience, they are distinguished by fine cases and integrated bracelets.

Wempe Glashütte, the watch brand from Germany’s most famous retailer, has just introduced a new team to the steely league: the Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Diver on the wrist

The new collection complements the Wempe Zeitmeister und Wempe Chronometerwerke lines and comprises 16 new models, including a chronograph, a diver’s watch, and three-handed models for men and women, some of the latter two powered by quartz movements.

However, in contrast to the Odysseus and Alpine Eagle timepieces, the new Iron Walkers are not equipped with manufacture calibers, but rather tried-and-tested automatic ETA calibers to place the new collection in a more accessible price range.

It’s worth noting that all Iron Walkers earn a chronometer certification according to the ISO 3159 standard, which is issued at Germany’s only testing center. The testing is executed with the movements encased – in contrast to the Swiss C.O.S.C. institute, which only tests the calibers outside the case. The former Glashütte observatory is home to the institute, which was founded by Wempe in 2006.

Wempe Iron Walker: inspired by New York City

The storytelling behind the Iron Walker is interesting. The name refers to New York City’s daring construction workers, who built the city’s famous skyscrapers at the beginning of the twentieth century with little safety equipment. Wempe’s New York showroom on Fifth Avenue is housed in one of these buildings, which are based on a solid steel-skeleton foundation.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Chronograph pushers and crown

Close inspection of the case and integrated metal bracelet indeed evokes some association with architectural designs. Ever so slightly tonneau-shaped, the case with integrated lugs is distinguished by brushed surfaces and polished accents highlighting the different lines and surfaces, a thin round bezel, and a somewhat prominent crown guard on the right.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker steel clasp

Each element is executed with great attention to detail and in alignment with each other. Despite the sporty character, the watches exude a refined, unmistakable elegance. This also rings true for the integrated metal bracelet with H-shaped links and finely polished bevels on the sides that echo the case style.

In the same vein, the luminous, sunray-finished dials – available in black, blue, and silvery-white – feature perfectly sized applied indexes and baton-style hands. The overall effect is charming and harmonious, with a distinctive personality that sets the Iron Walker apart.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph

The flagship Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph is housed in a 42 mm stainless-steel case with a substantial height of 14 mm. While this makes it a largish watch, the dimensions ensure a good, balanced feel for a contemporary chronograph.

Wempe Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph on the wrist

The rectangular, beveled pushers that rise above the crown guard echo the overall smooth case design. The tricompax-style dial, with a nicely framed date window between 4 and 5 o’clock and a tachymeter scale on the flange, is offered in two color choices: the first is an entirely blue dial with color-coordinated subdials, the second is a more striking reverse panda combination with a black background and silver chronograph counters.

Wempe Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph with reverse panda dial

Both versions are powered by the ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic caliber, which Wempe upgraded with a fine adjustment. It ticks underneath a closed case back, as do all movements in the Iron Walker collection.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Automatic Diver

Wempe once again takes to water with the Iron Walker Automatic Diver. Like the Zeitmeister Sport Diver’s Chronograph, it offers water-resistance to 300 meters. And like the Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph, the case has a diameter of 42 mm but (unlike it) sports a reduced height of 11.7 mm. The Iron Walker Automatic Diver passes the criteria of the DIN and ISO standards for 300-meter diver’s watches.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Diver

In compressor-like style with the first 15 minutes highlighted, the minute scale usually found around the diver’s bezel is placed on the flange here and operated by a screw-down crown. This clever approach minimizes the risk of accidentally moving the scale indicating dive time and helps the chronograph follow the design codes of the new collection.

Wempe Glashütte offers two dial variants: a blue dial with white accents and a black dial with blue and white accents. Both feature an arrow-tipped second hand.

The Iron Walker Automatic Diver is equipped with the popular automatic ETA 2892-A2 movement, which indicates the date at 3 o’clock. In the same vein as the chronograph models, it both radiates sturdiness and subtle refinement and could easily be worn with a business outfit.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Automatic

If it’s a sporty watch for the office you are after, the Iron Walker Automatic might be the best option thanks to its classic three-hand automatic execution and smaller and slimmer case size of 40 mm and a height slightly under 10 mm.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Automatic with blue dial

It is here that the pure design style characterizing the Iron Walker timepieces comes out best, making for a great example of just how good a modern mechanical sports watch can look.

Details of the Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Automatic dial

The Iron Walker Automatic is powered by the ETA 2892-A2, which is protected by a closed case back. With a water resistance of 100 meters, the screw-down crown and luminous dial, which is available in black, blue and silvery-white, is geared to many sporty activities but will also shine in more elegant settings.

Wempe Glashütte Iron Walker Automatic with silvery-white dial

I do like all three dial colors, but surprisingly the light one is my favorite here for I feel it really highlights the purity of the design.

For more information, please visit wempe.com/en/watches/brands/wempe-glashuette-i-sa/wempe-iron-walker.

Quick Facts Wempe Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph
Case: 42 mm x 13.95 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber ETA Valjoux 7753, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 48-hour power reserve, official chronometer certificate
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Price: €3,675 / $4,250

Quick Facts Wempe Iron Walker Automatic Diver
Case: 42 mm x 11.7 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber ETA 2892-A2, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 42-hour power reserve, official chronometer certificate
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, diver’s scale
Price: €2,975 / $3,450 

Quick Facts Wempe Iron Walker Automatic
Case: 40 mm x 9.75 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber ETA 2892-A2, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 42-hour power reserve, official chronometer certificate
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: €2,375 / $2,750

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