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Two faces, Two dials, Two identities

High performance escapement with
“triple pare-chute” protection

Limited edition of 10 pieces

Phillips’ Start-Stop-Reset Auction: 14 Epic Wristshots Of Stainless Steel Chronographs

by Simon Cudd

Watches from the upcoming Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction made a stop in the auction house’s London Mayfair location for several days, which gave me the opportunity to view them in the metal and even try some on.

The auction, due to take place at La Reserve in Geneva on May 14, 2016, is sure to be a spectacular event not only for the picturesque location, but for the amazing timepieces on the block.

Given my newfound admiration for vintage watches, I had to see what these exquisite timepieces looked like on the wrist. I will probably never get to see any of them again.

There are a great number of Rolex and Omega models with a few timepieces by Universal, Omega, Breitling, and Longines to see here. I hope you enjoy them through the eye of my lens.

Breitling Superocean 807

The Breitling Superocean was originally launched in 1957, which makes this timepiece from 1958 powered by a Venus 175 movement quite an early example. Its 39 mm stainless steel case is extremely wearable on an expandable Gemex bracelet.

Breitling Superocean 807 is Lot 4 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

A Breitling Superocean 807 is Lot 4 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 15,000-30,000
Lot 4: www.phillips.com/MOVADO/CH080016/5

Omega CK 2077

This 38 mm stainless steel Omega CK 2077 from about 1945 belongs to one of the first of the water-resistant collections for Omega. This example has an unusual dial with a luminous hour ring, which highly contrasts with the glossy black dial. It is powered by manually wound chronograph Caliber 33.3.

Omega CK 2077 is Lot 7 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

This Omega CK 2077 is Lot 7 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 40,000-80,000
Lot 7: www.phillips.com/OMEGA/CH080016/7

Rolex Oyster Alpina 6240

Part of Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona family, this 1966 Oyster Alpina powered by a Valjoux 72B movement was exclusively made in stainless steel as reference 6240. Only produced until 1969, there were approximately 1,700 examples of this reference.

Rolex Oyster Alpina 6240 is Lot 10 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Rolex Oyster Alpina 6240 is Lot 10 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
Lot 10: www.phillips.com/ROLEX/CH080016/10

Universal Aero-Compax

When it was introduced in 1935, the Universal Compax was the world’s first chronograph with hour and minute registers. The Aero-Compax launched in 1941, and this 38 mm example is from 1944.

Universal Aero-Compax is Lot 19 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

This Universal Aero-Compax is Lot 19 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

This is probably my favorite lot from the auction watches shown in London: I love the patina on the dial, the small blue markers, and the feel of this more than 70-year-old watch.

Estimate: CHF 15,000-30,000
Lot 19: www.phillips.com/UNIVERSAL/CH080016/19

Grana Antimagnetique Reference 11498

This Grana Antimagnetique Reference 11498 comes in a 38 mm case featuring a black lacquered dial. Grana’s name is an abbreviation for Granatus, the Latin word for Grenchen. Grana was part of Certina, a brand founded in 1888, and now owned by the Swatch Group. The watches in this configuration and powered by Venus Caliber 175 were issued to Several European air forces.

Grana Antimagnetique Reference 11498 is Lot 25 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

A Grana Antimagnetique Reference 11498 is Lot 25 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 20,000-40,000
Lot 25: www.phillips.com/GRANA/CH080016/25

Rolex Zerographe

A very unusual Rolex, the Zerographe in its small 32 mm case was the very first chronograph produced by the brand in 1937. This flyback variation with rotating bezel remains to amaze collectors. I love the California dial with its mix of Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, and markers.

Rolex Zerographe is Lot 36 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Rolex Zerographe, Lot 36 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
Lot 36: www.phillips.com/ROLEX/CH080016/36

Omega Speedmaster Racing Dial

This Omega Speedmaster Racing Dial wristwatch from 1968 is probably the marque’s most recognizable model. “Speedies,” as they are affectionately known in the collector’s scene, have become even more popular and collectible over the last few years. I love the red markers on this dial paired with the orange hands driven by manually wound Caliber 321.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Dial is Lot 40 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Omega Speedmaster Racing Dial: Lot 40 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 30,000-60,000
Lot 40: www.phillips.com/detail/CH080016/40

Heuer Monaco Dark Lord

The Darth Vader of Heuer’s Monaco line with its PVD-coated black stainless steel case and perforated leather racing strap is an iconic watch from the 1970s. The orange chronograph hands against the black case and dial look magnificent. I had never seen one in the metal before, let alone tried one on – like most people today due to this watch’s almost mythical and rare status. This was a real treat.

Heuer Monaco Dark Lord is Lot 42 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

A Heuer Monaco Dark Lord is Lot 42 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 25,000-50,000
Lot 42: www.phillips.com/HEUER/CH080016/42#

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Musketeer Paul Newman Ref. 6264

This Paul Newman Musketeer, produced in the early 1970s for a very limited amount of time, is one of the rarest and most exclusive of all Daytona models according to Phillips. I particularly like the very sparing use of bright red as well as the white grené-finished dial spotted with black subdials and the unusual font. This 37.5 mm case sits beautifully on the wrist.

This Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Musketeer Paul Newman Ref. 6264 is Lot 44 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

A Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Musketeer Paul Newman Ref. 6264 is Lot 44 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
Lot 44: www.phillips.com/ROLEX/CH080016/44#

Omega Speedmaster Professional Racing Dial

Another fantastic example of a Speedmaster Racing Dial from 1971, this one sporting a mixture of red and orange markers on the grey dial and Omega logo in orange comes on its original steel bracelet. It’s believed that these prototype dials were rare and only sold through select retailers in Japan.

his Omega Speedmaster Professional Racing Dial is Lot 48 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Omega Speedmaster Professional Racing Dial: Lot 48 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 15,000-30,000
Lot 48: www.phillips.com/OMEGA/CH080016/48

Rolex Antimagnetique Reference 4113

This Rolex Reference 4113 is the most important watch in the entire auction. Its last two auction appearances set records, and the 1942 Antimagnetique will quite probably perform similarly this time around as well. Perhaps on the largish side at 44 mm, its size doesn’t matter because it will likely never be worn again. Quite possibly the most important watch the Geneva-based brand has ever made, Reference 4113 is considered the top-of-the-line Rolex.

This Rolex Antimagnetique Reference 4113 is Lot 56 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

A Rolex Antimagnetique Reference 4113 is Lot 56 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 800,000-1,600,000
Lot 56: www.phillips.com/ROLEX/CH080016/56#

Longines Chronostop Japanese Navy

A bonkers looking piece at 47 mm, this watch was military-issued for Japanese navy pilots. This Chronostop model was perfect for their missions, probably strapped to their thighs (as one may have done at that time), the large oignon-style crown and pusher at 2 o’clock made for easy use when wearing gloves. A fantastic 1959 version with perhaps even its original leather strap.

This Longines Chronostop Japanese Navy is Lot 63 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

This Longines Chronostop Japanese Navy is Lot 63 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 20,000-40,000
Lot 63: www.phillips.com/LONGINES/CH080016/63#

Rolex Antimagnetic 3330

The rawness of this Reference 3330 stainless steel case, beautifully colored dial, and blued hands made this a watch ahead of its time in the 1930s, so perhaps may be more suited to today’s market. Either way it is a very, very desirable timepiece.

This Rolex Antimagnetic 3330 is Lot 74 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Rolex Antimagnetic 3330: Lot 74 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 200,000-400,000
Lot 74: www.phillips.comROLEX/CH080016/74

Omega CK 2077

This is a stunning 1941 version of the CK 2077 with a black-and-grey dial. A fantastic example of this watch, and it’s worth noting that 38.5 mm was considered oversized for the time.

This Omega CK 2077 is Lot 78 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

This example of the Omega CK 2077 is Lot 78 at the Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs

Estimate: CHF 40,000-80,000
Lot 78: www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080016/78

I look forward to the outcome of this great auction, which takes place on May 14, 2016 in Geneva.

You may also be interested in Phillips Stages Thematic Auction Of Stainless Steel Chronographs: A Reaction To Market Conditions?

For more information, please visit www.phillips.com/auctions/CH080016.

1 reply

Trackbacks & Pingbacks

  1. 4 Record-Setting Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Models Auctioned At Phillips. Is A Fifth Coming? | Quill & Pad says:
    August 1, 2016 at 5:46 pm

    […] the innovative Start-Stop-Reset auction comprising 88 stainless steel chronographs (see Phillips’ Start-Stop-Reset Auction: 14 Epic Wristshots Of Stainless Steel Chronographs and Phillips Stages Thematic Auction Of Stainless Steel Chronographs: A Reaction To Market […]

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