by Sabine Zwettler

Munich, the “metropolis with a heart” known for its hospitality and unique Bavarian lifestyle, transformed into the “metropolis of watches” over the weekend of October 27-29, 2017.

The tenth edition of MunichTime, the annual consumer watch exhibition that takes place during the last weekend of October each year, attracted thousands of watch lovers to the upscale Hotel Bayerischer Hof located right in the heart of the city.

MunichTime 2017

From A. Lange & Söhne to IWC and Ulysse Nardin, an impressive number of prestigious luxury marques was present at the exclusive expo. Over the entire weekend, watch lovers had the opportunity to see and try on new timepieces introduced at SIHH and Baselworld earlier this year and make personal connections with brand representatives in a cozy setting.

Czapek Genève at MunichTime 2017: CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel at right

Among 2017’s 60 exhibitors were also some of the most sought-after independent watchmakers, brands including Greubel Forsey, Armin Strom, Czapek Genève, Moritz Grossmann, Lang & Heyne, and Ressence.

Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey at MunichTime 2017

Visitors also had the opportunity to encounter some of Germany’s own insider secrets such as Benzinger, the Pforzheim-based atelier known for its incredibly skillful guilloche and skeletonization work.

Another is the father and son team Dornblüth, which crafts timepieces in the finest Saxon tradition, some of them powered by manufacture Caliber Q-2010 with a Maltese cross construction.

And, last but not least, exceptional clock manufacture Matthias Naeschke, which some connoisseurs consider to be the world’s finest address for highest quality clocks, both in terms of precision and craftsmanship.

Here are some interesting new watches that were on display at the 2017 edition of MunichTime.

Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Royal Blue

Tutima’s Saxon One lineup, introduced three years ago, probably offers one of the most striking case designs these days. The architectural, pyramid-like style is the result of a complex structure comprising a cushion-shaped base surrounding a round dial and including a unidirectional rotating bezel.

Finely satin-finished surfaces alternate with polished areas, resulting in a stunning interplay of light and shade. The screw-in crown is well protected between two high flanks, which harmoniously build a unit with the large chronograph pushers integrated into the case.

Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Royal Blue

The latest addition to the Saxon One line is the Saxon One Chronograph Royal Blue, which is a rugged timepiece water-resistant to 200 meters. As the name suggests, Royal Blue features an intense blue dial going very well with the overall edgy design. But there is more to it than just the aesthetics.

Very unlike most chronographs, and rooted in Tutima’s history, this chronograph indicates its elapsed minutes using the seconds scale in a sweep manner. This is a unique feature of the chronograph module that the Glashütte-based brand developed for automatic Caliber 521, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back.

For more information, please visit www.tutima.com/sponsorships-and-activities/blue-blooded.

Quick Facts Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Royal Blue
Case: 43 x 15.7 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber Tutima 521 (base Valjoux 7750 with Tutima module), frequency 4 Hz; power reserve 48 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; date, chronograph, 24-hour display
Price: €4,900

Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic

In 2006, Wempe Jewelers, headquartered in Hamburg, Germany, inaugurated its rebuilt observatory premises in Glashütte. The historic place, which was once part of the local German School of Watchmaking, now not only houses a chronometer testing institute – the only one on German soil and adhering to the German DIN standards – but also a state-of-the-art manufacture for fine chronometer timepieces called Wempe Zeitmeister and Wempe Chronometerwerke.

On the occasion of its tenth anniversary, the young German watch brand introduced its fourth manufacture movement christened CW4 in 2016. Developed in collaboration with Swiss specialist Soprod, the automatic caliber has an impressive power reserve of 92 hours thanks to twin serially operating spring barrels.

Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic

It features a powerful bidirectional-winding micro rotor made of tungsten and a variable inertia balance for super-fine adjustments in order to comply with the strict rules for chronometer certification. Another characteristic feature is the position of the balance at 7 o’clock.

In accordance with the noble traditions of Glashütte’s fine art of watchmaking and as a nod to mechanical beauty, CW4 offers horological refinements such as a three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbed finish, blued screws, and gold chatons.

Beneath a hand-engraved balance cock, the balance beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, ensuring the high accuracy of a chronometer. It goes without saying that the precision of the movement has been tested rigorously for 15 days in the observatory on site before the watch receives its official chronometer certificate.

Turning the watch back around, we find a picture-perfect chronometer dial with excellent readability. Long leaf hands, baton markers, and a railroad-style minute track perfectly complement the instrument style of early chronometer days.

For more information, please visit www.wempe.com/en/watches/brands/wempe-glashuette-i-sa/wempe-chronometerwerke.

Quick Facts Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic
Case: 41 x 11.7 mm, yellow gold
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber CW4, frequency 4 Hz; power reserve 92 hours, officially certified as a chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: €14,950

Girard Perregaux’s Axel Felmy (left) and Stefano Macaluso holding the Laureato Ceramic at MunichTime 2017

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 mm Ceramic

Girard-Perregaux, celebrating its 225th birthday in 2016, introduced a stunning variation of its flagship Laureato, which is now cased in a first for the brand: black ceramic.

The intense matte black hue subtly highlights the case’s signature style with its octagonal-shaped bezel fitted into an integrated case design that dispenses with lugs and transitions directly into a likewise ceramic bracelet.

The high-tech material, which excels in terms of light weight, skin-friendliness, and scratch resistance in addition to providing fantastic looks, lends the watch a decidedly fresh breeze, transforming the otherwise relatively classic timepiece into a bold-yet-elegant sports watch.

These vibes are further enhanced by the ceramic bracelet, distinguished by its wide satin-brushed links and domed, polished interlink elements.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 mm Ceramic

Adhering to the spirit of the line, the bold stamped clous de Paris guilloche motif likewise shimmers in black on the dial as does the case. White baton-shaped hands overlaid with Super-LumiNova allow for good readability in the dark.

The compelling color composition extends to the blackened sapphire crystal pane in the case back that showcases automatic manufacture Caliber GP01800-0008 with its beautiful finishing.

For more information, please visit www.girard-perregaux.com/press-lounge/2017-new-creations/laureato-black-ceramic-42-mm.

Quick Facts Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 mm Ceramic
Case: 42 x 10.16 mm, ceramic
Movement: manufacture automatic Caliber GP01800-0008, frequency 4 Hz/; power reserve 54 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: €16,900