by Ashton Tracy
Deciding whether or not to restore a vintage watch is a tough decision to make. The internet is awash with tales of watches butchered by an incompetent independent watchmaker or, worse still, the brand itself.
GaryG’s vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic
Even more confusing is deciding which options offered should be accepted.
Refinish the case?
Change the hands?
Replace the crystal?
Replace damaged or broken components?
The questions seem endless, however being educated on the subject can remove most of the confusion shrouding the issue at hand.
Refinishing the case
We will get this one out of the way early as it is by far the most controversial: the general consensus in this area is don’t do it as polishing the case of a vintage timepiece is very likely to devalue it.
A. Lange & Söhne Double Split before refurbishment
A. Lange & Söhne Double Split after refurbishment
If you own a Paul Newman Rolex Daytona or a Milsub (nickname for a Rolex Submariner issued to British Royal Navy divers in the 1960s and 1970s), this is sound advice.
If you own a 1965 Omega Seamaster, it’s not as crucial as the watch isn’t really worth that much to begin with. So if you want it polished, go ahead.
Many collectors of fine vintage watches prefer them unpolished and original, thus rendering an unpolished example more valuable.
If you own a mid-level watch, say a vintage Rolex Submariner worth $7,000-$10,000, you need to consider the matter carefully. Why do you own the watch? Is it an investment or do you plan to wear the watch? Is it a family heirloom or are you hoping to sell it down the line?
All these questions come into play when considering refinishing.
Doubt? Don’t do it!
If in any doubt, don’t do it! You can always have it refinished later, but you can’t undo what has already been done.
If the decision is to refinish, it’s crucial to understand there are varying degrees of refinishing: some watchmakers are masters of their craft and others are hacks. So if you do decide to go the refinishing route, it is imperative you choose someone who knows what they are doing and has the correct machinery and equipment.
An expert watchmaker isn’t necessarily a master of refinishing, so look for an expert in the field.
The crystal
Some claim original crystals should be left as is, arguing the replacement can devalue the timepiece.
If a crystal is original and in working order, keeping the original will do no harm. However, the crystal is the first line of defense against the elements and if damaged should be replaced.
Ouchhh! This Rolex Submariner has seen better times
Replacing a damaged crystal with a correct, original crystal is good practice as it ensures the dial, hands, and movement are protected. Leaving a cracked or damaged crystal can allow moisture or dirt to enter, causing irreparable damage in some cases.
If that is allowed to happen, the value of the watch will certainly decline. Original crystals produced by the manufacturer must always be insisted upon to ensure the watch’s integrity and longevity as ill-fitting aftermarket components can cause compromise.
Water resistant gaskets
Similar to the crystal, gaskets are a crucial line of defense against the outside world.
Gaskets must always be changed when restoring a vintage watch as over time they can become brittle, crack, flatten, and – in some cases – turn to goo. Whether a gasket is compromised or not, replacement is always recommended.
Certain manufacturers employed lead gaskets in past times; if your watch is still fitted with such a gasket, changing for a new rubber gasket would be prudent to ensure the watch keeps the elements out.
Hands and dial: no compromise
Similar to refinishing, the value of the watch must be considered; however, deciding whether to keep original dials and hands is almost always an area of no compromise: original is best.
Original, age-appropriate dials and hands are where the money is as collectors always demand original patina.
Far too often we come across beautiful vintage pieces that have glaringly bright luminous markers radiating as if they were manufactured last week. And on occasion the dial is kept original with only the hands having been exchanged. This looks even worse!
This vintage LeCoultre Memodate has had some very light work done to the hands to prevent further cracking of the tritium, preserving the integrity of the dial
Exchanging dial and hands doesn’t just drastically devalue the watch, it looks plain terrible and often times the dial and hands won’t be the original style – imagine a matte dial being exchanged for a glossy one.
If luminous paint is starting to crumble from the hands, exchanging them is not the only option. It would be more prudent to use a clear lacquer or nail polish to place a thin coating underneath the hands to ensure the integrity of the old luminous paint, ensuring the hands won’t deteriorate any further. Any competent, experienced watchmaker should be able to discuss that with you.
Movement parts
Worn movement parts must always be replaced to ensure your watch performs as intended.
Changing out for original, factory produced parts or having components manufactured by hand if these are no longer available has no bearing on the value of the watch. If worn components are left to decay then further damage is likely.
If one were to leave a cut axle, for example, it would cause the watch to not function as intended and possibly deteriorate faster, causing damage to other components and seriously impacting the value and function if those parts cannot be purchased or replicated.
Bezel, crown, and pushers
The bezel is an area of a vintage watch that can have a considerable impact on value. Collectors do prefer original, especially some GMT, dive, or tachymeter bezels.
Similar to dial and hands, I would suggest maintaining the original as far as possible as certain vintage watches can be seen as worthless in the eyes of collectors if not accompanied by original bezels.
A vintage Jaeger “Panda dial 4 ATM” with intact bezel
The crown and chronograph pushers are another area in which the collector prefers original, but badly damaged parts need to be looked at carefully. Similar to the crystal, these components ensure the integrity of the watch so if the decision is to keep the original, endeavoring to change the gaskets in these items would be wise, ensuring the watch stays as sealed as possible.
If the original parts are exchanged for modern examples, ensuring that the old parts are given back to you is prudent.
The most crucial component: the watchmaker
The final area may be the most crucial: choosing a competent, experienced watchmaker.
Whether the decision is to use the manufacturer or an independent repairer, find out ahead of time whether they understand the process of restoration. Always make sure to ask questions so you can understand their stances on restoration and ensure they are happy to follow your wishes.
Don’t allow anyone to pressure you into changing something just because they say it needs it. Find out why they want it changed and make your own informed decision.
There are some areas that won’t be up for debate as most independent watchmakers and manufacturers will not perform partial repairs, especially on a vintage watch. This ensures the watch will be working as intended and isn’t a point that should be argued – with the same being true for damaged crystals, gaskets, and movement parts.
Refinishing of the case and bracelet or exchanging dial and hands, bezel, crystal, or pushers should however always be the customer’s choice.
Ultimately, the decision is yours
All of the above decisions are ultimately yours to make, and if you decide you want everything exchanged for brand-new versions, then go ahead.
The crucial thing is to ensure you understand exactly what you are doing and if you are fully aware that replacing certain parts will dramatically reduce the value of your watch in some cases.
If you do, there is no issue: exchange away.
Far too often, however, we see people making uninformed decisions about vintage watches and seriously regretting it later down the line.
Having a vintage watch restored can be stressful and confusing, but it doesn’t have to be as long as you keep the above factors in mind to understand the process.
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Want to join the discussion?Feel free to contribute!
I disagree: http://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonydemarco/2017/01/14/27-new-luxury-watches-for-2017/
This is crap! Keep with the subject of the intended purpose of this page please. Not try to push on new watches…
Longines calibre 25.14 dial restore
Rolex Sub is a “mid-level” watch?! That’s absurd.
Would you consider it Entry!?
Lol
I really like your blog, thank you so much for sharing it with us.
Hello, thank you for this very informative article. I have question about replacing the crystal. I have a mid-level watch which is functioning fine, but doesn’t not have original crystal. Do you recommend replacing it with original crystal, even if the current one is fine, but not original. Does that impacts resale? Say 10% increase?
Non-original parts always impact the value of a watch, so if the crystal currently on it is not original then it doesn’t matter from that perspective. But putting another crystal on it won’t increase its value, either.
I have a 1973 Omega Speedmaster with Racing Dial. I’ve worn it for nearly fifty years. I’ve had it repaired several times over the years by local watch shops but this time I’m thinking of sending it in for a factory refurbish. Have you experience with the Omega factory refurbishments?
I like that you talked about being informed before one decides about having a vintage watch restored. I will definitely ask a professional to learn more about vintage watches because I plan to buy one this week. My plan is to wear one to complete the look that I want to pull off at a party that I will attend this coming weekend. So I hope that I will be able to buy to find a vintage expert to be able to buy a watch and have it restored to make it look newer if ever needed.
I just noticed that my grandma’s vintage Deman Incabloc 18k watch does not have the number 6 on its face. I don’t think the watch was ever repaired. Could this be the way the watch was originally sold?
We’re not familiar with that model, but that could well be the way it was designed.
I appreciate the advice to make sure the place I take my clock knows the restoration process properly. Hopefully, I can because my dad gave me this clock. Being unable to fix it would break my heart.
I am grateful for the suggestions. I got the valuable guide, in fact, i have been searching for a critical query like this one, which i in the long run have got it.
Thankyou for the suggestions.
I found this article very helpful. I own a Tudor Submariner 7928 that I purchased new in1968. It has not been worn in more than 30 years and does not run. I would like to have it restored and wear it again. I want it to be practical to use, but I do not want to substantially decrease its value. I am hoping to find advice on how to find and choose “a competent, experienced watchmaker.” If possible I would love to find some one I could physically bring the watch to and discuss options. I live in eastern Massachusetts. Any help appreciated.
I highly recommend Mark Sirianni, the watch doctor. Go to his site at watchdoctor.biz , read his reviews and menu and decide. I think he’s the best, as many others do.
Thank you for reminding many of us who get caught up in the trend to restore just because it seems more palatable to look at something that looks fresh while forgetting the character that the “scars” add. I have a Zenith G381 in yellow gold dating back to 1969- 1972. Only 1,000 were made. A few days ago, I considered selling or trading the watch to a very well known establishment whose name ends with “ox”. I was aghast at the value they offered me which was about 20% of what these watches are selling at, and this was their explanation: replace entire 18 karat yellow gold case because it is scratched heavily (absolute rubbish), replace hands (why on earth??), replace acrylic crystal due to light scratching (ludicrous) and then they claimed the watch “did not have any amplitude which meant it was not working at all” (the watch has been running to the minute against my phone for a week now). I find it incredible that such a large trader of watches would even suggest all of this. I walked away and swore never to deal with them in this lifetime. Clearly, there are some who just do not understand that vintage watches are to be dealt only on as as needed basis to prevent further damage.
Unfortunately I have little or no knowledge of vintage and antique watches but I am fortunate to have inherited a Cartier pocket watch which I guess to be from the 1920s. It is very slim, gold and has two doors which close across the small watch face. To the best of my knowledge it has sat in a drawer unused for at least the last sixty years but appears to have been overwound. In any event, with passing it on to one of my children in mind, I took it along to Cartier for “a service”. I was imagining cleaning/oiling the movement as needed and having the ‘overwind’ released. The watch was sent to the Swiss craftsmen department and they are proposing a series of what they call “necessary interventions”. I was disappointed to get very little information about the likely history of its manufacture and only headline descriptions of their proposals. ‘Necessary interventions’ include reshaping the bow which looks fairly perfect to me given its age, and replacement of the crystal. Only on querying these two items did they come back to me to explain that there were slight gaps where the bow joins the watch presenting a security risk and that the crystal is not original. I suggested that given the crystal must itself be 60 years old or more I could live with that. But it was intimated that they would not repair the watch at all if the crystal was not to be replaced! “Movement restoration and remanufacturing of worn, oxidised, broken or missing components if necessary…” was also mentioned but no exact details of what was oxidised and to what extent or what components, if any, were broken or missing – nor what would be renovated or what would be re-manufactured. I did get an assurance that all intervention would be impeccable and necessary but I was left feeling very unsure of what necessary means in this context given their inclusion of a new crystal and adjusted bow in this…
Reading your correspondence makes me nervous of over-refurbishment. From readers perspectives I would be interested in opinions as to whether I should simply leave it to these undoubted experts or is there a divide between what an expert will do for perfection of operation versus the value gained from untouched antiquity?
I would be happy to post photos if required and if you tell me how!!! Thank you.
Hi,
I have a vintage Omega manual-wind dress watch (from around the 1960s?) that I inherited from my grandfather decades ago. I had it serviced properly around 2003 and once in awhile have worn it since then. I like the look of it pretty well, and I like the memories of my grandfather. It’s not worth a huge amount (a few hundred dollars I guess) and I’m fine with that. I am definitely not into owning high monetary value watches. This watch looks better than my other watches and although it doesn’t keep good time (and I forget to wind it during the course of a day) I do like having it as my go-to for special occasions.
However:
Every few years the crystal falls off. I guess there is glue and it dries out? Or should it just pop in and stay there? It’s not saphire, but just some sort of cheap material. Each time this happens I have to take it to a watch repair place to have it fixed. I am not competent to glue it back on (or pop it in?) myself.
I’m wondering if there is much discussion of any alternative ways, which maintain good looks and are known to last longer than a few years, to put a crystal onto this sort of watch. It’s annoying to have to take this watch to a repair shop every few years for something I only wear occasionally.
Thx for the page and info. I have a couple vintage watches I bought on auction. Nothing fancy or highly collectable, but they both need a little work. They are elgin and lord elgin dress watches from circa 1960’s and one has a dial that sits slightly ascue and a gold plated mesh bracelet with some annoying loss of gold plating near the lugs. I assume I should fix both, even though i know they will never be worth a ton. I see the aquamaster lord elgin with mesh strap on eay for $379 (the one on ebay looks to be in mint condition with box) The other one elgin selfwinding 10k rgp bezel has an annoyingly short strap and it is not my favorite due to dimensions. from what i read it was like a unisex, but it is in pristine condition with clear crystal and no wear on the case, bracelet, dial or hands. That one seems to be fetching 100-250 on ebay, but i am concerned a buyer might not like the short strap or dimensions (like me) so maybe it is better to keep it and get the strap replaced or lengthened. What is the best way to do that and does it devalue it. I know it isnt worth big money, but i prefer not to do something stupid to a pristine watch if possible, or put my fate in the hands of a jeweler watch repair person, that I dont know yet. I was thinking if it cant be easiily lengthened, should
I inquire about a similar old elgin model on ebay just to get a strap that is near too original and from the same company at least, or do people consider changing straps totally fine and is there no reason to seek out an elgin strap?
I have a vintage Blancpain fifty fanthom aqa lung no rad pre owned i received in 1970 wore it for two years left it in storage until recently,it’s all original never been in water, never been serviced, works great keeps time,was thinking about having it serviced but after reading it might de value the watch since i was thinking about selling it,your advice seems to be if its not broken don’t fix it might be worth more ??