With its clear and functional lines, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection, first introduced in 1992, has been a paragon for Swiss high horology representing the time-honored manufacture’s vision of sophisticated and reliable timekeeping.
As the latest additions to the top-notch Master collection, these four new watches are powered by manufacture movements of the highest quality combined with refined aesthetics and an elegant, instrument-style allure.
Launched back in the early 1990s, the Master Control line was the first of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collections to benefit from the in-house 1,000 Hours Control certificate.
This program certifies both the cased and uncased watches in terms of precision, temperature and pressure resistance, and robustness to shocks and magnetic fields. It is one of the most extensive tests in the industry.
In addition to the 1,000 Hours Control certification, the Master Control watches, like all of Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, carry an eight-year warranty.
Classic at its best
The new lineup sports a redesigned case with a contemporary diameter of 40 mm and bold lugs. The sides feature a satin-brushed finish, while the bezel, crown, and lugs are polished. This interplay creates a refined impression that is only complemented by the new calfskin leather straps with matte finish.
Famous for the smooth texture and expressive color that gains a distinctive patina over time, the straps are manufactured by the French tannery Novonappa. Thanks to a Presto spring lug attachment and a simple clip for removing and refitting the deployant buckle, they can be easily changed out without the need for a tool.
The dials exude pure, classic style that was inspired by 1950s Jaeger-LeCoultre icons such as the Futurematic and Memovox models. The historic looks now translate into applied, elongated index markers, Dauphine hands, some of which are blued to stand out from the silver dials with fine sunray finish.
The overall impression is emphatically elegant and thoroughly Jaeger-LeCoultre.
And Jaeger-LeCoultre paid as much attention to the inner workings as to the look and feel of the outsides – if not more. Automatic Caliber 899, a staple in the brand’s collection since the 1980s, has been significantly upgraded, most notably with a silicon escapement, a redesigned spring barrel, and various energy-saving enhancements to improve the reliability, power reserve, and long-term performance. This movement family also welcomes an entirely new member, Caliber 759.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
Caliber 759 powers the new Master Chronograph Control Calendar, the technical flagship of the revamped line.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
It features a sophisticated column-wheel chronograph with vertical clutch as well as a calendar complication with the day and date indications displayed through two windows positioned just below 12 o’clock.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
Opposite that, at 6 o’clock, the moon phase subdial with an integrated date sets elegant accents. The finely executed silver disk that moves across a starry night sky harmoniously contrasts with the overall relatively monochrome color scheme of the dial. The pulsometric scale around the flange adds to the elegant allure of early 1920s-style timepieces when doctors checked pulses with the aid of their wristwatches.
For more information, please visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/eu/en/watches/master/master-control-chronograph-calendar.
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
Case: 40 x 12.05 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 759, 4 Hz / 28,800 vph frequency, 65-hour power reserve, silicon escapement
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds; date, day, month, chronograph
Price: €14,900/$14,500
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
Jaeger-LeCoultre draws on a long history of superb world time and GMT timepieces. One of which is the Master Control Geographic, which first debuted in 1990.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
Rather than indicating only the hour of a second time zone, the Geographic also boasts a 24-hour night-and-day indication and displays the time zone reference city through an aperture at the bottom of the dial, which makes for user-friendly operation.
Additionally, the timekeeper also boasts the date in a subdial and a sectoral power reserve indication.
This winning layout is maintained in the latest version of the Master Control Geographic, however the new aesthetic codes, such as the elongated index markers, a clearer font, and slimmer numerals lend a contemporary twist.
Dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
Here, the blued hands for the power reserve indicator, the second time zone, the date, and the sweep seconds contrast with the monochromatic silver-toned dial in a particularly expressive manner.
The Master Control Geographic is powered by the new-generation Caliber 939, which offers an increased power reserve of 70 hours.
For more information, please visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/eu/en/watches/master/master-geographic.
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
Case: 40 x 10.96 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 939, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 70-hour power reserve, silicon escapement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, second time zone, 24-hour display, day/night indication, 24 time zones, power reserve indication
Price: €11,200/$12,200
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
With a moon phase indication, a date around the dial’s flange, and two windows displaying the weekday and month, the new Master Control Calendar likewise sticks to the layout of its predecessor.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
But like the Master Control Geographic it demonstrates that a tasteful redesign can make such a difference. The finer elements, such as the applied markers and numbers, the new moon phase indication, and the plain backdrop of the dial exude timeless beauty. Although clearly inspired by great examples from the past, it serves as a picture-perfect example of a modern high-horology timepiece with calendar indications and a moon phase.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
However, it is not only the finely balanced layout that highlights this expertise but also a cool technical twist: Caliber 866 is now enhanced with the fun jumping complication first seen on the Master Tourbillon, which avoids obscuring the beautiful moon phase (that would be a real pity!). And, thus, the date hand performs a 90-degree leap from the 15th to the 16th of each month.
For more information, please visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/eu/en/watches/master/master-calendar.
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
Case: 40 x 10.95 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 866, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 70-hour power reserve, silicon escapement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; day, jumping date, month, moon phase
Price: €11,400/$11,000
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
Working our way down from complicated to less complicated, we arrive at the Master Control Date, a three-handed timekeeper with date indication at 3 o’clock.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
However, looking closely at this beauty of the dial we discover that nothing is simple here. Instead, it shows an extremely balanced design in which every element perfectly complements the other, proving the successful product design motto “simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date dial detail
This also rings true for the notably thin case measuring a slender 8.78 mm in height.
For more information, please visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/eu/en/watches/master/master-control-date.
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
Case: 40 x 8.78 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 899, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 70-hour power reserve, silicon escapement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds: date
Price: €6,950/$6,700
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Here are a couple of observations from an experienced collector who prefers to remain anonymous:
1. Something really subtle but wonderful: the movement utilizes a vertical clutch. The normal architecture of the vertical clutch chronograph always ends up placing small seconds at 6 o’clock. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar has the small seconds at 9, which is wonderful – it couldn’t have been at 6 o’clock as the moon phase and date were placed (as with Patek Philippe). How did JLC achieve that? An additional train to move the indication or something else?
2. The Jaeger-LeCoultre perpetual chronograph dial layout follows a similar script to the Patek Philippe perpetual chronographs that have been around forever. It’s a good layout to follow (it works), but perhaps some credit where credit is due?