An Owner’s Comparison: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic vs. Rolex Explorer 36
by Perry Heim
Much akin to the commitment a cigarette smoker takes upon himself – for example, stepping outside regardless of pouring rain or scorching sun, to satisfy his nicotine addiction – a collector of timepieces (usually a watch geek, horological nerd, etc…) should also be committed. Yes, quite possibly to an asylum.
There comes a point, usually around the time you start identifying new people by their wrist-wear, that you come to realise that the sum of quirks you’ve picked up as you’ve descended the rabbit hole of collecting now places you in a different sphere than most.
This gradual deterioration of one’s common sense is subtle and it expresses itself differently in each individual. I I always sleep with a watch on as I like knowing roughly when I fall asleep and what time it is if I wake up during the night.
For this purpose, I prefer a watch with decent amount of luminescence, and I even go as far as keeping a small UV flashlight at my bedside, so as to insure said watch’s lume is sufficiently charged.
I see this not as a form of OCD, by the way, but rather as a mental disorder in and of itself.
The point I’m getting at is that there’s often method to the madness of collecting watches, though it remains madness nonetheless. We rationalise and often come up with the most complex criteria, guidelines, and even set forward rules for our collections, as if to try and overcompensate for the inescapable fact that this hobby is fundamentally emotional rather than rational.
And it is this sentiment that I wish to keep in mind as I now delve into a comparison of two beloved watches from my humble collection: a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic and a Rolex Explorer 36.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic (left) and Rolex Explorer 36
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As some of you may already know, I wanted a Bulgari Octo Finissimo for a long time and initially held back the purchase as I had very much wished it were lumed. It wasn’t and still isn’t. I eventually went ahead and pulled the trigger anyway, much in thanks to Remi Gardet’s comment to my article about wanting an Octo here on Quill & Pad.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic on the wrist
After roughly two years of ownership, I can say that 1. I like the watch and 2. that the fear of Bulgari releasing a lumed version after me having already bought mine has started to dwindle.
Rolex Explorer 36 on the wrist
By comparison, the modest 36mm Rolex Explorer Ref. 124270 that joined my collection last year was not a long-planned purchase. I simply had the opportunity of trying it on at a Rolex AD and I picked it up on the spot. I felt it was an easy buy (considering I had the funds available) due to Rolex value retention.
The fact that it’s not the most hyped or sought-after model isn’t a disadvantage from my perspective. Never being much of a Rolex fanboy, I had always figured that if I ever were to pick up a Rollie it would probably be an Explorer. And this reference certainly caught both my eye and attention the moment it came out.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
I have noticed something though. These two automatic watches with their three-handed black dials tucked into 100-meter water resistant cases with screw down crowns, it seems that they have some similarities. At least until you see them in photos or on wrist.
The fact of the matter is they both appeal to me on a technical and intellectual basis and, as I discovered, they both sit very well with me in everyday life.
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You might argue that the correct comparison would have been between the Octo Finissimo 103297 and the 40mm Explorer 224270. Simply put, I bought the 36mm version and I prefer it. I’m a traditionalist when it suits me to be so, and the fact is that the Explorer was originally and iconically made in a 36mm case.
Rolex Explorer 36
I am extremely fond of the way this small watch sits charmingly on my wrist. While the 40mm square Octo also nestles my arm graciously, the 40mm Explorer just doesn’t do it for me.
In-house movement of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
To me, the Octo is the more impressive watch, both in terms of its record-breaking movement, its bold case design, and its formidable wrist presence. While the current second-hand market value of these two watches is not that far apart, I can easily see why the Octo retails for nearly double the price of the Explorer.
Somewhat paradoxically, the Explorer, even though embossed with the crown, truly is the “least-Rolex-Rolex” and does not receive the attention the Bulgari Finissimo does.
More often than not though I prefer the Explorer. I would say much of my preference lies in the Explorer being a superior timekeeper. It is precise to about +0.65 seconds per day in the real world, as opposed to my Octo’s +15 seconds per day – no surprises there; Rolex put much stock in the precision of their watches while Bulgari never made any claims of the sort.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
The Octo is a rather poor choice for telling the exact time, having no minute track, and going so far as missing a third of its hour indices.
My Explorer by contrast always reliably lets me know the time down to the second.
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Both watches have a decent power reserve; 60 hours in the case of Bulgari, 10 hours more at 70 hours for the Rolex.
Rolex Explorer 36 lume
And I haven’t yet mentioned the lume and its lack thereof. Which is to say that the Finissimo is a poor night-time companion while the Explorer could hardly be better. Scratch that – it’s perfect in that regard. If not in almost every regard.
There’s also the issue of water resistance: while they both have screw-down crowns and 100-meter ratings, I have a much greater degree of confidence in the Rolex when comes time to do the dishes or bathing my kids.
Again, this shouldn’t come as a surprise given that Rolex built much of its reputation on water resistant oysters and Bulgari (highly experienced scarf knitters that they are) are offering the same depth rating at nearly half the thickness of the Explorer. Ballsy.
I should also mention the bracelet fit, clasps and aftermarket straps. The Rolex comes out ahead once more thanks to the easy-link system and three points for micro-adjusting the fit of the bracelet.
Bulgari by contrast went through all the trouble of integrating the clasp seamlessly into the bracelet so that it adds no thickness whatsoever.
However, it’s left with no option for micro-adjustments.
My Octo fits me just fine during winter and fall, but come summertime I find myself between sizes (“link-wise”) and so I usually revert to one of nearly a dozen custom straps I had made (shout out to leather expert Custom Hu).
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic on custom leather strap
Admittedly these straps came at the cost of a what could have been a decent micro-brand watch, perhaps even a small Nomos (I guess by now the notion of “certified” has taken on an entirely different context than pre-owned Rolex).
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Like the Finissimo, the Explorer, uses conventional spring bars to keep its bracelet in place. Both watches also include some form of protruding elements at the edge of their bracelet that fit into recesses in the case flanks.
But integrated straps must be made-to-order for the Octo. There really is no way around this with its 30mm lug width and integrated design.
Rolex Explorer 36 on the wrist
The Rolex Explorer can pretty much fit any 19mm strap (and probably some 20mm straps), but the way the the case alcoves are designed and the manner by which the strap joins the case means it tends damage generic straps.
So, I wouldn’t go so far as to dub either of them strap-monsters, even though they both receive many compliments when complimented by leather or any other materials. I will rap this comparison up shortly, without going into any further technical details, measurements, and the like. You can find such information elsewhere with ease.
The note I’d like to end with regards to the different personalities of the watches and how I justify keeping them both in my collection.
To be clear, this is entirely part of the mental disorder I mentioned at the beginning. Herein is where the truly horrifying existence of those formerly known as Watch Idiot Savants (WIS) lies dormant, ever waiting for someone to ask us for the time or, God forbid, “what’s on your wrist?”
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Arguing that the Explorer is the true, original, James Bond watch as actually worn by Ian Fleming is one way to waste your time. Loosing sleep over the fact that in The Equalizer 3 one of the villains arrogantly corrects Denzel Washington’s character as to the fact that his watch is a Bulgari just before Denzel punks him big time – that another story.
But subsequently trying to rewrite cinematic history to include some Italian super spy who would choose a (lumed) Octo Finissimo as his daily driver – well that’s a horse of a different color altogether now ain’t it?
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
As it is, I bought the Octo in conjunction with a personal milestone soI am unlikely to ever part with it. And While I purchased the Explorer shortly after my 35th birthday, it wasn’t exactly tied to that occasion.
So given that I like the Explorer a bit more, but the Octo holds a tad more sentimental values – they’re both keepers. So I have to make sure they get along. Here’s how I do it: I tell the Explorer-
-No, on second thought, I think this has been revealing enough. To the point I’m concerned someone, somewhere, might think to institutionalise me for talking to my timepieces. No need to take this any further 😊
Thank you for your time.
For more information, please visit www.bulgari.com/en-int/watches/mens/octo-finissimo-watch-black-103297 and/or www.rolex.com/watches/explorer/m124270-0001
Quick facts: Bulgari Octo FinissimoAutomatic Ref. 103297
Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds
Case: stainless steel
Dimensions: 40 mm diameter x 6,4 mm high
Movement: Bulgari manufacture caliber BVL 138, automatic winding with platinum micro-rotor, frequency 3 Hz
Power reserve: 60 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet/buckle: integrated steel braclet with folding clasp
Price: €15,000-
Quick facts: Rolex Explorer 36 Ref.124270
Indications: hours, minutes, seconds
Case: Oystersteel (stainless steel), screw-down crown
Dimensions: 36 mm diameter x 11.5 mm high
Dial: highly legible Chromalight lume display with long-lasting blue luminescence
Movement: automatic winding caliber 3230 manufacture movement, Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, precision -2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet/buckle: steel bracelet with folding clasp and micro-adjustment
Price: €7,400-
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Love your writing! Thanks for sharing
Great read and thorough analysis. When it comes to slim elegance versus rugged resilience, which of the two would you trust to handle both boardrooms and backwoods?
Alfa driver I see…. 👌🏾 🤜🏾 (I’ve had a 147 and currently a Giulietta)
Really good post…. Think I’m mensing more towards the Bvlgari
Alfa driver I see…. 👌🏾 🤜🏾 (I’ve had a 147 and currently a Giulietta)
Really good post…. Think I’m leaning more towards the Bvlgari
Tisnis a classic one !! I love it !