Shades of Substance: The Squale Sub-39 GMT U.S. Limited Edition Watches
By Nina Scally
Black and grey dials are often misunderstood. They’re frequently dismissed as safe choices, the horological equivalent of a navy blazer—dependable, yes, but hardly thrilling. When executed with care and attention to detail, however, they become quite the talking point. That appears to be the case for the highly anticipated US-only Sub-39 GMT watches from Squale.
The two new releases in black and angente show that they have the capacity to express depth and restraint in ways that louder colours seldom can. Now, Squale is no stranger to colour. Its previous Sub-39 GMT watches have provided collectors’ wrists with green and blue flourishes in times gone by – each one captivating in its own right. But these new black and grey releases tap into retro territory with their aged lume details and their vintage-like black bezels adorned with orange numerals. Each is limited to 50 pieces and joins a collection that enjoys something of a cult following among seasoned enthusiasts.
Arriving without fanfare, the black and agente Squale Sub 39 GMT watches are considered. They’re tactile and unmistakably special in ways that some collectors would consider rather understated. In part, this can be attributed to their waffle-patterned dial finish, which sets them apart from other current models in Squale’s GMT lineup. They invite appreciation through detail, proportion, and a touch of heritage, which undoubtedly lends them their vintage appeal.
A Brand Built on Function Before Fame
To fully appreciate the magnetic draw of Squale’s design language and how it expresses this through its travel-oriented watches, we must first look at the company’s origins.
Squale was a 1950s child. It was founded by a gentleman named Charles von Buren, a Swiss watch case manufacturer based in Neuchâtel. It explains how Squale went from one success to the next in the early days, manufacturing and supplying cases to some of the world’s most respected dive watch brands of the era – Blancpain, DOXA, and Heuer, to name but a few. That professional lineage still defines Squale today.
The original Sub-39 watches were designed for those who lived their lives underwater and were trusted instruments by professional divers and military units alike. While many of Squale’s peers grew flashier and more ambitious over time, Squale remained faithful to its roots, creating modest watches for modest people. The Sub-39 GMT represents the continuation of that philosophy today.
The Sub-39 GMT: A Watch That Earned Its Following
Collectors have long admired the Sub-39 GMT for one simple reason: it’s an honest watch. Striking that rare balance between vintage charm and contemporary wearability, it measures a comfortable and very manageable diameter of 39mm with slimmer lugs to give the watch a more refined physique. Its domed crystal and rounded, slimmer lugs are carefully considered, all helping to promote a feeling of elegant discretion. Indeed, this organic silhouette takes us right back to Squale’s 1960s prototypes. This time, however, Squale experts equip the watch with an aviation-inspired crowns for easy handling.
The first members of the Sub-39 watch collection were designed in 2019, marking the manufacturer’s 60th anniversary. Collectors were instantly impressed with their ability to capture the spirit of their ancestors. Then came the GMT variants, which introduced a legible fourth hand to the dial and a 24-hour scale on the bezel. From then on, collectors could track a second time zone while enjoying it as the cult favourite it was.
The Swiss-made Elabore version of the Sellita SW330-1 (essentially a direct clone of the ETA 2893-2) that still powers the GMT models, including the two new variants, was another nod to practicality. The engine had already seen decades of use and was known for its reliability and precision, comprising 25 jewels and offering a power reserve of 42 hours once fully wound.
There was no attempt to reinvent the wheel with the Sub-39 GMT. This travel tool did what it did without artifice. For these reasons, the watch has acquired its own devoted fan base; the GMT watch is often mentioned in the same breath as watches costing significantly more.
The Guilloché Editions: Texture and Restraint
The new U.S.-only editions build upon this cult favourite with subtle yet significant aesthetic refinements. Available in black or grey, both versions feature a grigio guilloché dial finish—a delicate, engraved texture that adds unexpected depth to the design that’s to a waffle-inspired imprint. Of course, guilloché is an age-old art form primarily associated with high-end watchmaking; yet, in the case of the Sub-39 GMT, the technique has been used sparingly. It gives the watch a level of nuance rather than ornamentation, making it just as at home on the wrist during a weekend hike as it is under the cuff of an office shirt.
Under certain light, the dial reveals a discreet series of fine, undulating patterns that catch and release reflections in a soft but playful way. In other lights, the dial can take on an almost liquid appearance. This interplay of light and texture elevates the black and grey models respectively, without diluting their purpose as a travel tool.
Each dial is complemented by old radium Super-LumiNova as well. This material enables the hands and indexes to impart an old-world warmth, reminiscent of aged tritium. The steel case, rendered in a polished finish, remains unchanged, featuring curved lugs and a modest height that makes the bidirectional 24-hour bezel easy to operate.
The new black and agente Sub-39 GMT watches from Squale are finished with the brand’s textured black rubber strap, as seen throughout the rest of the collection, and secure to the wrist with a Squale-engraved stainless steel pin buckle fastener.
Final Thoughts
Only 50 examples of each dial variant will be produced, and all are exclusive to the United States. The scarcity of these new models, however, feels organic, as Squale’s production has always been on the small side. This, of course, goes some way to explaining the Sub-39’s fan base. Without a doubt, the new guilloché dial texture and the two limited-edition colour options are going to give collectors a new angle to enjoy the Sub-39 GMT, both functionally and aesthetically.
Above all, the watch’s modest design is what makes it so incredibly wearable. The deep blue travel hand on both models allows the wearer to track home easily whilst away on business or personal endeavours. This new design is, in so many ways, an elegant reminder of the Sub-39’s original purpose as a functional companion.
Collectors often speak of watches that “feel right”, and overall, this is one of them. It is honest, thoughtfully executed, and endowed with a sense of purpose rarely seen at its price point.
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