The Inflection by Atelier Wen makes a striking statement with its tantalum case, a rare, durable metal with a naturally dark, steely hue that evolves beautifully over time. It’s a watch that feels as unique to the wrist as it is in the light, turning material innovation into art. 

It may be news to some, but Atelier Wen’s experience with tantalum doesn’t begin with the new Inflection watches. The brand hinted at the release of its first non-limited version of a full-tantalum watch when it unveiled a 25-piece limited edition from its Perception range, following two prototypes released in Geneva back in 2024. Building on that model, Atelier Wen upholds the characteristic integrated bracelet case of the Perception series, but brings the material into its regular production catalogue, making it more accessible to collectors. What’s more, the new design is no longer focused on angularity, sheer surfaces, and the sharp, clean facets of the Perception design, but rather celebrates rounder, softer, more organic forms. Meet the new Atelier Wen Inflection watch. 

Tantalum – A Rare Metal in Watchmaking

Tantalum is one of watchmaking’s most intriguing modern case materials, prized for its rarity, visual character and exceptional physical properties. Naturally dark blue-grey in colour, this material develops a soft, almost liquid sheen when polished, offering depth and warmth that set it apart from steel, titanium, or ceramic. Unlike coatings or surface treatments, its colour is inherent to the metal itself and remains stable over time.

Exceptionally dense and corrosion-resistant, tantalum is virtually impervious to acids, saltwater and everyday wear, which is why it’s so well suited to designs like the Atelier Wen Inflection. It is also hypoallergenic, making it comfortable for prolonged skin contact. Compared to stainless steel, tantalum is heavier and feels more luxurious, while offering greater corrosion resistance. When compared to titanium, it sacrifices lightness in favour of mass and visual richness. Ceramic, on the other hand, may be harder, but tantalum is far less brittle and more forgiving in daily use.

Manufacturing tantalum cases is notoriously challenging. Its high melting point and extreme toughness rapidly wear down cutting tools, demanding slower machining speeds and specialised equipment at Atelier Wen’s manufacturing facilities. Finishing is equally demanding, requiring patient handwork to achieve crisp lines and refined surfaces. These difficulties, combined with limited supply, explain why tantalum remains rare in watchmaking and is a material best reserved for marques willing to embrace complexity in pursuit of distinction. Enter Atelier Wen.

Atelier Wen Ventures into Tantalum Territory 

Chinese brand Atelier Wen has evolved greatly since its first release in 2018. Shortly after that release, the brand took a break to redefine its name and purpose before returning with the Perception series. Fitted with guilloché dials and integrated bracelet cases, these watches gave the brand considerable viability. The next natural progression, however, seems to point to something altogether more high-end and exciting. In previous years, tantalum has seldom accounted for more than a case or a small part of a bracelet. But an alliance between watchmakers Ming Fleming and J. N Shapiro has led to an interesting design concept for Atelier Wen, opening up the possibility of a watch compatible with bracelets from all three brands.

The New Atelier Wen Inflection 

For the first time, a tantalum watch from a serial production line has entered Atelier Wen’s catalogue and measures a very manageable 40mm in diameter. Without a flat surface in sight, this is no slab of metal on the wrist. Carefully contoured dimensions and an ergonomic framework ensure that this watch sits comfortably on the wrist, especially with a depth of just 10.25mm. Drawing on the frontal and base geometries of the Perception line, the watch maintains its overall look and feel while being markedly more refined than its ancestors.

A mixture of brushed and polished surfaces gives the Inflection a sense of depth, the latter of which gives the model an almost ceramic-like look. Substantially weightier on the wrist thanks to its density, the metal case emulates a dark bluish-grey tone and a startling inertness that can be picked out from across a crowded room. A polished concave bezel and lateral ears have been rounded and softened to adhere to the organic, highly curvaceous Inflection principles, while the proportions of the case are pleasingly compact. More. Importantly, the lug-to-lug measurements are equally wearable, totalling 45mm in length.

Impressive attention to detail continues throughout the design, flowing into the bracelet itself, with polished and vertically brushed accents across the unique H-Link band. These finishes are particularly difficult to obtain and will be appreciated by keen collectors with an eye for the finer details. This time, all elements of the case and bracelet are crafted from tantalum. This includes the crown, clasp, and push buttons. The 100M water-resistant case is also equipped with a sapphire crystal front and caseback – the latter affording a clear view of the movement at work.

Dial Colours

The Inflection watch is not just about tantalum, however. The model comes in three varieties. Firstly, there’s a limited-edition model with a hand-hammered fume dial and a translucent grand feu enamel dial, ranging radially from pale green hues to a rich viridian. It features white Arabic numerals and bi-planed rhodium-plated hands that reflect light beautifully. The first permanent variant, however, is an obsidian black model with gilt Arabic numerals and 5N rose gold-plated hands. Lastly, a second release joins the permanent collection – a midnight blue grand feu enamel complete with white Arabic numerals and bi-planed rhodium-plated hands. Though not limited editions, the manufacturer has hinted at a small production run for each, likely around 100 pieces across all three iterations.

Even these enamel dials exemplify the exacting standards adhered to at Atelier Wen’s manufacturing facilities. To achieve the required colour, each dial is fired a total of six times between temperatures of 750°C and 850°C. The dials are then sanded to achieve a glossy finish for their unmistakable grand feu enamel finish. If you take a look around the periphery of the dial, you’ll also note the brand’s signature Huiwen motif, which frames the bespoke typography of the Arabic numeral hour track. This font draws inspiration from Chinese bamboo leaf painting, infusing each display with a subtle oriental influence. The hour and minute hands even feature deep concave side planes that create an interesting interplay of light and texture.

The Movement

Atelier Wen fits the watch with an equally superb movement – the Calibre GP03300, which it produced alongside movement master Girard Perregaux. This collaboration between one of the world’s oldest watch brands and one of the youngest seems a natural fusion, opening up an opportunity for Atelier Wen to explore deeper avenues specialising in artisanal finishing and decoration. Girard Perregaux’s technical team worked with Atelier Wen’s designer Alfred Chan to create the Calibre GP03300, featuring smooth, sweeping lines and delicate contours, with decoration including ruthenium-plated bridges and anglage, as well as laser-etched touches.

A brass tungsten rotor adorned with five swirling spokes matches the intricate finish on the bridges, and the movement promises an accuracy of 0/+10 seconds per day. Once wound, it can provide a useful 48 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Closing Remarks

The Atelier Wen Inflection is a statement of material mastery and design evolution. By embracing tantalum in a full-production model, Atelier Wen transforms a rare, challenging metal into an accessible yet exceptional horological experience. Every curve, every polished surface, and every enamel dial reflects the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship, while the GP03300 movement underscores technical sophistication. The Inflection balances rarity, wearability, and artistry, offering collectors a modern classic that is both visually striking and profoundly tactile. In bringing tantalum from prototype to catalogue, Atelier Wen has truly set a new benchmark in contemporary watchmaking this year, proving that innovation, elegance, and collectability can coexist in a single timepiece.

Atelier Wen Inflection — quick facts

• What it is: Atelier Wen’s top-tier integrated-bracelet sports-luxury line; their most “halo” product.

• Material: 99.9% tantalum case and bracelet (dense, dark-grey metal; heavier than steel/titanium).

• Case size: 40mm diameter, 45mm lug-to-lug, 10.2mm thick (including crystal).

• Water resistance: 100m / 10ATM with a screw-down crown.

• Crystal: Sapphire front + sapphire display caseback (anti-reflective treatment stated by the brand).

• Dial: Grand feu enamel over a 925 silver base; artisanal Chinese enamel work.

• Variants:

  • Green “Yōu” (launch edition; limited to 30 pieces)

  • Black “Mò” (permanent)

  • Midnight blue “Yuān” (permanent)

• Movement: Customized Girard-Perregaux GP03300 automatic; 28,800 bph, 48-hour power reserve; 5-position adjustment stated.

• Finishing details: Skeletonised/engraved bridges with wind-motif inspiration; black-polished screws; rotor with 5N rose-gold plating (per brand claims).

• Bracelet features: Integrated bracelet taper 22mm → 18mm; quick-release; on-the-fly micro-adjust (4 positions).

• Price: $29,800 USD listed for the core configuration; strap version reported as cheaper.

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