by Ian Skellern
Social media has experienced quite the discussion of a Chinese phone “by Kari Voutilainen,” a Swiss-based Finnish independent watchmaker, which turned out to be not a phone but a SIM card cover. If not a social media storm in a teacup, then this has at the very least been a brisk zephyr in a thimble over the issue, which also involved another Finnish independent watchmaker, Stepan Sarpaneva.
Kari Voutilainen with a 8848 Ti M3 mobile phone with a special SIM card cover
The story so far
Day 1, October 25, 2016. Australian watch blog Horologium reported a story entitled “Kari Voutilainen: Limited edition mobile phones,” which began, “In Beijing on October 18, 2016 independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen joined with new partner Chinese phone brand 8848 and company founder Du Yingying to launch a series of limited edition (180 units) of mobile phones based on the 8848 Titanium model, but with Voutilainen customization. At the same time 8848 announced a new private subscription customization service for customers, who will be able to select different leather choices, colors, ornamentation, and even engraving for their new phones.”
The Horologium article presented the facts as known and added no personal opinion one way or another as to whether the phone was a good thing or a bad thing.
Four variations of the 8848 Ti M3 mobile phone, a brand often referred to as the Chinese Vertu
Day 2, October 26, 2016. Hodinkee managing editor Stephen Pulvirent published “Kari Voutilainen Is Now Making Smartphones (And It Makes Me Want To Cry),” which led with, “Well, I can’t believe I’m writing this. Kari Voutilainen is making smartphones. Or at least making parts of them and slapping his name on the final handset. Essentially what you get for a few thousand dollars is an ostentatious leather-wrapped phone from Chinese maker 8848 with a strange ‘dial’ made by Kari stuck to the back. It’s about the furthest thing I can imagine from an actual Voutilainen watch and it kind of makes me want to cry.”
Now I appreciate that Pulvirent’s article is perhaps deliberately provocative, but the following isn’t worthy of a journalist of his talent and standing: he first admitted, “I’ve never actually seen an 8848 phone in person (they’re only available in China) . . .”, but that didn’t stop him from adding, “But these [phones] are particularly bad.” Pulvirent finished with “. . . but there’s no way for me to rationalize this as anything other than a cash grab that cheapens an otherwise incredible brand.”
And when I read that I have to admit that based on what he had said (which included, ” . . . after digging have turned up a reasonably complete picture of what’s going on here”), I generally agreed with Pulvirent’s sentiment. Why would somebody with the incredibly high reputation that Kari Voutilainen has risk cheapening his brand and reputation with a low-quality Chinese phone?
The message was clear: according to Pulvirent Voutilainen was a sell-out.
Day 3, October 27, 2016. Revolution‘s Suzanne Wong offered to clear up the Voutilainen phone saga with an altogether more positive spin in “The Misinformation Stops Here.” Wong tells us that, “They’re [the Voutilainen-made elements] made in Comblémine, Kari’s dial factory, and are as well made as you’d expect anything by Kari to be. Fellow Finn Stepan Sarpaneva has also pitched in with some work on the bezels, so you can see this is a group effort. Yay, Scandinavian solidarity!” and “If it brings Kari a ton of money and allows him to spend more time creating incredible watches without having to worry about financial pressure . . . I gotta say I’m totally cool with that.”
The message here was clear: according to Wong, Voutilainen was a sensible businessman.
Now from the more detailed information provided, it appears that Wong at least talked to somebody involved. And I generally agreed with her sentiment, which was 180 degrees opposed to Pulvirent’s view that I’d agreed with the day before.
Confused, intrigued and bamboozled? Talk to the source
Having been confused, intrigued, and bamboozled by two journalists I respect with completely opposite views on the same subject (though I suspect Pulvirent’s stance may have changed in light of more complete information), I gave Voutilainen and Sarpaneva a call to see if they could clarify the good/bad Chinese phone saga.
The video above by Stepan Sarpaneva highlights the small component that has caused quite a big hooha.
How it played out
Chinese electronics manufacturer Eren Eben, aka EBen, created a subsidiary brand called 8848, which has been dubbed the Asian Vertu. 8848 founder Yin Du learned quickly that many of his high-end customers expected more than exceptional quality; they also wanted exclusivity and ideally the option of customizing their phones. Note: the name “8848” comes from the height of Mount Everest in meters because “the company aims high.”
While it was relatively easy to offer a range of leather types, textures, and colors, Du also appreciated that the cover of the SIM card might also be personalized. Du happened to be talking to a friend about this and the friend, a watch collector, looked at the SIM cover, thought “watch dial” to himself and suggested that Du get in contact with a Finnish watchmaker he knew, Stepan Sarpaneva. He thought that Sarpaneva was open-minded and that his distinctive Krona bezel would be a perfect shape for the SIM cover.
8848 Ti M3 mobile phone with Voutilainen watch with Sarpaneva/Voutilainen designed SIM card cover
When Sarpaneva got involved he realized that while he could certainly make a nice watch-dial-like SIM cover with his Krona bezel, he could not produce the covers in the quantities required: the first limited edition was to be 180 pieces. Who better to work with than fellow Finnish watchmaker Voutilainen, who had his own dial company, Comblémine SA, which makes special dials for his own company as well as Richard Mille, MB&F, RGM, MCT, Vacheron Constantin and many other high end brands. Voutilainen had created Comblémine in 2014 from Dialtech SA, which had gone bankrupt the previous year.
Naturally, just like Sarpaneva, before associating his name with anything Voutilainen checked the quality of the 8848 Ti and was impressed: the titanium case, made by a case maker who also makes high-end cases for Swiss watch brands, was nicely crafted and beautifully hand finished. The leather came from Belgium/Netherlands, and the company’s quality control process was first rate.
When Sarpaneva and Voutilainen presented their first few prototype SIM covers to 8848, the company’s quality control drop tested them from one meter 20 times to ensure that the Swiss components were up to scratch.
But as importantly for Sarpaneva and Voutilainen as the quality of 8848’s phones was the comfortable relationship that quickly developed with founder Yin Du.
There’s irony in the fact while many Swiss suppliers have been threatened by manufacturing moving to China, here is at least one instance of a Chinese manufacture sourcing from Switzerland.
Motivations
For Sarpaneva and Voutilainen, the motivation wasn’t just the chance of much appreciated work in a very difficult economic climate for watchmakers and suppliers (as if that isn’t reason enough), but also the chance of extending the relationship with 8848 to include other niche artisans from Switzerland and beyond.
And we should bear in mind that this is not a co-branding of a mobile phone, but simply independent watchmakers creating a distinctive horologically-inspired SIM card cover for a high-end mobile phone in an association that may help spread the word about independent watchmaking among well-heeled Chinese consumers.
If there’s any downside at all to this collaboration, I don’t see it. I wish all involved the very best of luck.
Quick Facts 8848 Titanium M3
Case: hand-polished titanium, sapphire crystel, ceramic, calf leather
SIM cover: designed by Stepan Sarpaneva and Kari Voutilainen, manufactured in Switzerland by Comblémine SA, red “8”
Specs: 5” FHD screen, 4GB of RAM, 128GB, 21MP rear camera, 3MP front camera, snapdragon processor
Limitation: 180 pieces, also bespoke option
Price: $3,000 – $4,500
Availability: only in China
Trackbacks & Pingbacks
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[…] his life, his career, and his approach to watchmaking. SIM card covers may even get a mention (see The Real Story Behind The Stepan Sarpaneva/Kari Voutilainen/8848 Ti Chinese Phone: Yes There’s Mor… and Commissioning A Watch: My Journey With The Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph […]
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[…] Voutilainen’s participation in one embellishing element of the 8848 Ti Chinese mobile phone (see The Real Story Behind The Stepan Sarpaneva/Kari Voutilainen/8848 Ti Chinese Phone: Yes There’s Mor…), the Finnish watchmaker living in Switzerland exhibited several of his one-of-a-kind timepieces […]
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While hodinkee’s take on the issue may have been a bit sensationalist. We should not take the position that any venture, which may increase interest/demand in the industry is positive. Especially when it comes to independent horology, which we appreciate for its relative purity in an industry chock full of cheap marketing schemes. Not to mention the fact that a smartphone is the antithesis of what we admire in traditional watchmaking. Also, the watch was advertised as co-branded – his name is literally on the ad.
Hi Mo,
I fully agree that “We should not take the position that any venture, which may increase interest/demand in the industry is positive.” But the financial situation for suppliers to the watch brands in Switzerland is dire. I do take the position that any venture that is likely to do more good than harm is a positive step if it helps to ensure that high-quality suppliers survive.
While phones, even expensive phones, are much more disposable than mechanical watches, the SIM cover is designed to be transferable to a new 8848 phone in future or be kept as a nice souvenir. I really do not see this venture having any effect on somebody thinking to buy a Voutilainen or Sarpaneva watch, and if anything the publicity is likely to lead to a few sales.
I hope to see you soon, the champagne is on me at SalonQP. 🙂
Regards, Ian
And please let me know when the bubbly starts flowing for you two….I’ll run over to join in the fun!
I liken this collaboration to a hypothetical situation where a master oil painter helps an app developer with a new painterly filter for a photo app. The painter may receive the funds to continue his or her own artistic pursuits, and maybe even some attention if the app is a success, but the fact remains that they have only supported a tool that has replaced the function of painting.
The phone to the watch is like the digital photograph to the painting, one has largely supplanted the value of the other in the public’s eye. The phone when mentioned in relation to a watch seems almost antithetical, and when you mix consumer electronics, with master watchmaking (not to mention any racial biases), the result leads into an uncanny valley of the product. Is it a tool, is it a toy, is it a luxury, does it promote artistry?
I think for this reason that it is a shame for Mr. Voutilainen and Serpaneva to have contributed to this phone regardless of its build/material quality or 8848’s intentions. I can understand a designer wanting to include precision machined parts, or foreign aesthetics in their product but phones and watches simply have too much historical baggage to go together without some awkwardness. A confusing product is never a good thing and is more likely hurt its makers than shed light on artistry. A large segment of the negative online reaction to the phone is only evidence to this.
I do hope that the watchmakers will be appropriately compensated for their contribution, and it would certainly be interesting to see Kari or Stepan produce horological items for different products (desk clock radio pretty please!). While this collaboration may be provoking, disturbing or at least odd, it certainly is not worth dramatically shedding tears over (unless it somehow forces Kari or Stepan to close up shop), and as a reader I greatly appreciate the balanced overview that this article presents.
Thank you for your well-considered and thoughtful comment, Lee.
Regards, Ian
Isn’t a desk clock radio a replacement for a mechanical alarm clock as much as a smartphone is a replacement for a watch, though?
A desk clock radio is absolutely a replacement for an alarm clock, but I think it would be an item more suited to a collaboration between a watchmaker, and a producer outside the field of horology. MB&F practically already have a desk clock radio in their collaborations with L’Epée and Reuge.
You don’t see the downside? Really??
No I don’t see any downside, Graham. I really do not believe that this little contretemps will have any negative impact on either sales or respect (from clients or potential clients) for Sarpaneva and Voutilainen, and if anything is likely to lead to more interest and sales in what is an extremely difficult economic climate.
Regards, Ian
Deary me – what a lot of words for such insignificance.
What’s a SIM cover? Is it actually an embellishment for a phone cover?
The SIM card is the little chip that holds the phone user’s personal data. It isn’t the cover or case of the phone but a little cover that allows access to the SIM card.
The video in the article shows the cover.
Regards, Ian
I applaud Hodinkee’s shoot first ask questions later stance. If you cross the line you cross the line. Best of luck to V. I will always recall this episode when his name/brand comes up in the future.
Can’t post pics here? I’ll post the replica KR covers that I might be encountering in the chinese night markets in the coming months. Should be near the PaulSmith undergarments and Versace lighter covers…
Thanks for your comment, BS, and it will be interesting to learn if fake Sarpaneva/Voutilainen 8848 SIM card covers turn up. Though you would also need the fake 8848 Ti phone for them to make much sense: not that making sense is the aim of cheap knock-offs.
Hey yo. If the Chinese can manufacture fake cooking oil, rice grains, watches Starbucks and even a fake Apple store, putting a series of dial designs on anything from cigar cases, wallets, alternative mainstream phone covers is piece of cake if it catches public fancy.
THIS IS WHY THE COLLABORATION IS A DUMB IDEA: Horology creates time transcending, timeless, technically technological immortal items; “smart” devices are expendable items that have an expiration date as soon as they’re created.
Hi Gregor,
The Sarpaneva/Voutilainen 8848 SIM card covers are designed to be able to be used for future phones when the old one is updated, but do you really think it is wrong for independent watchmakers (or anyone else for that matter) to diversify outside their industry in financially difficult times?
If this collaboration helps watchmakers and their suppliers survive this severe economic downturn then I’m all for it.
Thank you for your input.
Regards, Ian
While I don’t fully agree with their partner of choice in this collaboration, I can see the reasons why Mr Voutilainen and Mr Sarpaneva agreed to this. If part of it is for the benefit of other Swiss artists having access to the Chinese market in the future, then they should be applauded for being the pioneers for their peers. Coblemine creating the cover is not so different to Hermes making straps for Apple. Isn’t the spirit of AHCI to promote and support the art of independent watchmakers and artisans? Or is it just not in China?
Let’s not only worry about whether this would affect the value of your Observatoire. This is about 2 watchmakers that intend to do more than just for their own personal gains. Give them a break.
In the mean time, I’ll continue to save up for my first watch from Mr Voutilainen.
Thank you for your well-reasoned comment, Jay, and your point regarding Hermès and the Apple watch is a good one: I didn’t hear anything about that hurting Hèrmes.
I also dream to own a Voutilainen one day, but am more likely to have to settle for one of his SIM card covers 🙂
Regards, Ian
My main question regarding the phone is that is the phone itself any good? I.e. is both the (internal) hardware and software well crafted with good taste, or is this product more like slapping a Voutilainen dial on a cheap quartz watch?
The first thing that Kari Voutilainen did before associating his name with any project was to check out the quality of the 8848 Ti phone. As I wrote in the article, “Naturally, just like Sarpaneva, before associating his name with anything Voutilainen checked the quality of the 8848 Ti and was impressed: the titanium case, made by a case maker who also makes high-end cases for Swiss watch brands, was nicely crafted and beautifully hand finished.”
Regards, Ian
Yeah, but that doesn’t touch on the software side at all, which is also quite important when it comes to phones. This is one area where eg. Vertu has been lacking.
Ian, I’m so disappointed with your research…Finland is not part of Scandinavia;-)
More seriously, Kari designed a SIM cover big deal and let’s hope that it will open the Chinese markets for his watches.
My big question is: why isn’t Stepan getting the heat too? After all, he’s a superb watchmaker as well.
Hi, Alex, You are partially correct, and I should have used “Nordic” rather than Scandinavian. My understanding is that there is no fixed definition of Scandinavia and that it can refer to both a geological region – which Finland is not part of – and a cultural region – which many Finns do consider themselves part of. “Nordic” would have eliminated the ambiguity, but might have also deprived us of your comment. 🙂
As far as I see it, it’s all Stepan’s fault, and yet he’s sitting back in his stylishly decorated ice cave stroking a hairless cat, steadily plotting Kari’s demise!
I may be going off piste here, but I really like Kari’s shirt, with the little glasses-hanging-on-pocket logo.
We have already gone from watchmaking to mobile phone SIM card covers, if anything discussing Kari’s shirt is a step back in the right direction 😉
That made me chuckle, sir
Dear Ian,
Thank you for the facts.
Michael Clerizo
Thank you Ian for having done your homework on this, and having finally posted an accurate story!
Having held one of those SIM card covers in my hands, I can tell you that they are amazingly well crafted.
Frankly, I’m a bit surprised at the furor this has created. Given his impeccable track record of creating some of the most desirable watches on the planet, I think he get’s a pass on this. Trust that the man can aptly tend to his own business endeavors. I also don’t see this tarnishing the brand in any way, shape or form. It’s not like this side project has diminished his prodigious watchmaking skills. Carry on as you see fit, Kari
I have no qualms with Kari and Stepan working outside the watch industry in order to prosper. Business is business, and in trying times…even JLC made cockpit, navigational, instruments as well as other things as needed to survive.
What I do have a concern with is their choice of business partners. I’m in China and I’ve seen the press releases and press conference in Chinese. Neither elaborates at all about what is involved in the collaboration and uses Kari’s name and reputation extensively (as well as that of AHCI member Ma XuShu, though no mention of Stepan’s participation).
Inside China, 8848 has always been seen as a “shan zai” brand (there is no exact translation into English, but it means “copycat” or “fake”). Maybe they are trying to break out of market segment / brand image with Kari’s help? The brand is often seen in infomercials on TV portraying the aspirational aspects of being the powerful CEO/businesman.
So from a business perspective, I can understand the reasoning behind it. From a Brand Marketing/Image point of view: I think the benefits will be very one-sided. (I liken it to celebrities doing advertisements in foreign markets for products that they would never endorse in their home countries/markets, but get paid ALOT for doing so).
While this does not tarnish these Master Watchmakers skills and horological achievements, it may affect brand image…and so much about luxury is image.
Sorry, but fact-checking my own post… during the Press Conference, Stepan’s name was mentioned verbally but I haven’t seen anything in written releases.
Its nice that were getting some more info about the collaboration and to be honest it is tacky but perhaps its jsut Voutilainen playing with marketing like a hobbyist playing with a remote control car? Maybe hes doing a collaboration in China to test the waters I mean he has always had a hard on for marketing and finessing his brand a bit maybe this is just his first step?
All the heat directed towards Kari comes from people offended to see a watchmaker unduly recognised as a celebrity and turning the tables.
It is indeed sad for all those who used to buy a watch because of Diane Kruger, Nicole Kidman, Travolta, Di Caprio, Clooney, Federer et al. (not including the dead ones) to have to suffer the sight of someone mastering finishing (or is it Finnish-ing?) on such a level to promote a mobile phone.
The ECC (Endorsing Celebrities Comittee) had not approved Mr Voutilainen prior to these ads and is shocked at his claims to endorse without him being a member of this most upper crust of arts.
VERY fair point!