In April 2017 a symposium with the title “Synthetic Diamonds: Are Watchmaking and Jewelry in Danger?” took place in Geneva.
Speakers included the head of the Association Romande des Métiers de la Bijouterie (ASEMBI), the head of the diamond department of the Swiss Gemological Institute (SSEF), the managing director of the GGTL Laboratories in Switzerland and Liechtenstein, the director of research and development of the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), the CEO of DPA (Diamond Producers Association), the vice-chair of the Responsible Jewellery Council, the executive secretary of the Société Suisse de Gemmologie (SSG), and the director of development and quality of the Union Française de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie, des Pierres et Perles.
The symposium’s aim was to explain the indubitable reality of the arrival of synthetic diamonds in the world of watchmaking and demonstrate how it is possible to differentiate natural from lab-grown stones.
Uncut natural diamonds
While this topic has been a controversial one in the world of jewelry for some time now, this conference is likely to have been the first to specifically address synthetic diamonds in the domain of watchmaking.
And since synthetic diamonds have exactly the same properties as natural stones, it is important for both industry and consumers to learn about this.
Can you tell that these diamonds are natural?
The number one worry concerning this subject is (and should be) the loss of consumer confidence as there are already many times more synthetic diamonds being produced, marketed, and circulated than natural diamonds.
In this video, watch as The Watches TV’s Marc-André Deschoux discovers the challenges and impact synthetic diamonds might have on the world of watchmaking.
For more interesting watch videos, visit www.watchestv.com.
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Very interesting. For me the lesser environmental impact is the big bonus, and this could be used HEAVILY in the marketing of synthetic diamonds. So, if I went synthetic would I reveal it? I would not only reveal it, I would flaunt it – in a modest way not to fall into a nouveau riche-trap, of course.
I like the durability of the diamond real or synthetic the price is the next concern environmental impact is a very good factor
This discussion seems to be more about synthetic diamonds generally, not as it applies to the watch industry. Melee diamonds in a watch do not have the same sentiment as an engagement ring. If I buy a watch which features diamonds, I expect the diamond value is a small fraction of the watch value and really I couldn’t care if they were synthetic or natural. The aesthetic value is the same, nobody knows if they are natural or synthetic, not even I, the owner.
I am the CEO of Ada Diamonds, a bespoke jeweler working exclusively with conflict-free lab grown diamonds.
1) I believe that diamond making and watchmaking are a natural match, as lab diamonds are a paragon of human achievement, and arguably the most precise manufacturing done by humanity today. It’s extraordinarily difficult to maintain the exact conditions required in the diamond growth cell to grow DEF VVS+ diamonds, when you are running at 70,000 Bar and 1500C. The client that appreciates the skill and precision required to make an elaborate movement will certainly appreciate the skill and precision required to grow, not mine, the diamonds for the watch.
2) “there are already many times more synthetic diamonds being produced, marketed, and circulated than natural diamonds.” False. While ~98% of industrial diamond grit is lab grown, lab diamond gemstones are a drop in the bucket compared to supply of mined diamonds in circulation. Over 6 billion carats of diamonds have been mined since antiquity (according to GIA and Kimberley Process data). Morgan Stanley says lab diamonds are ~1% of natural production today and will only grow to 15% of melee by 2020.
3) During the 21st century, I believe that you’ll see lab diamond ‘crystals’ in high end watches, similar to lab grown sapphire crystal adoption in the 20th century.