Give Me Five! 5 New Timepieces At WatchTime New York 2017
Watches galore in NYC as WatchTime New York returns for its third edition on October 13 and 14, 2017 at Manhattan’s elegant Gotham Hall. Hosted by North America’s most important printed watch magazine, the annual consumer-oriented event brings together some of the most prestigious brands in the watch world and opens them up to the public.
Among the record number of 30 exhibitors this year are Jaeger-LeCoultre, Armin Strom, Jaquet Droz, A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Omega, Grand Seiko, and TAG Heuer. Visitors will encounter some of the most sought-after independent watchmakers, creators such as Romain Gauthier, MB&F, Kari Voutilainen, and Antoine Preziuso. And connoisseurs can also see the latest models by America’s premier watchmaker, RGM, which are many in number thanks to the brand’s 25th anniversary (see RGM’s 25th Anniversary Begets 3 New Watch Models, Including The Enigmatic 222-RR ‘Boxcar’).
For two days, U.S. watch lovers will have the opportunity to see and try on these makers’ new timepieces for the first time as well as personally connect with leading influencers, executives, experts, and fellow watch collectors.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic Blue Series
The Lange 1 Daymatic probably offers one of the most sophisticated ways to see the time, date, and weekday all at a glance. When the original Daymatic launched in 2010, it introduced two premiers to the German brand’s collection: the first automatic caliber and mirrored displays on its legendary off-centered dial (as seen from the viewpoint of the manually wound Lange 1 model).
Instead of a power reserve indicator, the Lange 1 Daymatic features a retrograde weekday indication positioned along the left side of the dial (the power reserve display travels down the right side of the dial on the manually wound Lange 1).
The brand’s signature large date is, of course, not something one can avoid seeing on the dial: it is beautifully integrated into the clean dial layout at 11 o’clock.
As part of the new Blue Series, the Lange 1 Daymatic is now also available with a beautiful blue dial.
This model is actually somewhat surprising as the Glashütte-based brand, known for resisting trends and instead presenting new materials and case variations in its line extensions, also jumps on the blue bandwagon that seems to have overtaken the world of watches in the past years.
Looking at the intense blue hue that perfectly preserves the Daymatic’s clean and elegant appearance, we can certainly appreciate the facelift! Apart from the new dial color, it is also the first time that the Lange 1 Daymatic is available in a white gold case, which harmoniously complements the new color.
Nothing has changed inside the watch: Caliber L021.1, comprising 426 components and 67 jewels, with its solid gold central rotor and platinum centrifugal mass powers the dressy timekeeper. Intricately decorated and executed, it represents the fine art of Glashütte watchmaking at the highest level.
For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/lange-1/lange-1-daymatic/introduction.
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic Blue Series
Case: 39.5 x 10.4 mm, white gold
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber L021.1 with in-house balance spring, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency; power reserve 50 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; large date, retrograde weekday
Moritz Grossman Atum Pure Skull
Moritz Grossmann, another brand from Germany’s watchmaking “metropolis,” also takes part in the Big Apple’s premier watch event.
Certainly one of the most illustrious Glashütte brands from a horological standpoint, at Moritz Grossmann nearly every component of the exquisite movements is manually crafted in the noble tradition of Carl Moritz Großmann (1826–1885), the famous Saxon watchmaker who once specialized in making tools, fine pocket watches, and escapement models.
A particular focus is placed on the hands at Moritz Grossmann, which are likewise manually produced in-house.
The German brand is present for the third time in New York, unveiling the Atum Pure Skull. Just in time for Halloween, the manufacture treats watch lovers to an eerily beautiful twist on the otherwise very classic Atum line.
As its name suggests, the three-handed timepiece’s partially skeletonized motif dial showcases a stylized skull, a popular Vanitas symbol for mortality that has haunted horology since the seventeenth century.
The Atum Pure Skull celebrates the sophisticated movement mechanics and skillful artisanal production techniques by revealing glimpses of manually wound manufacture Caliber 201.1. The skull, milled and wire-cut with spark erosion machines right in the manufacture’s workshops, has a sandblasted surface, serving as an ideal backdrop for the lance-shaped hands.
A full view of the impressive movement covered by a traditional German silver two-thirds plate is offered through the case back, where connoisseurs are sure to spot the signature Grossmann balance, the Grossmann winding (by pusher), the modified Glashütte index, and the Grossmann micrometer screw.
The white sapphire bearing jewels used in the movement constitute another interesting Grossmann hallmark.
For more information, please visit www.watchtime.com/wristwatch-industry-news/watches/premiering-at-watchtime-new-york-2017-moritz-grossmann-atum-pure-skull.
Quick Facts Moritz Grossman Atum Pure Skull
Case: 42 x 11.35 mm, stainless steel
Movement: manually winding manufacture Caliber 201.1 with Grossmann balance and removable clutch winding mechanism, modified Glashütte index, 2/3 plate and pillars in untreated German silver, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency; power reserve 42 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Limitation: 10 pieces
Price: €12,900 (USA) / €15,300 (Germany)
Geo. Graham Orrery Tourbillon
While Graham is best known for its oversized Chronofighter chronographs, the British brand delights aficionados of astronomical complications at WatchTime New York with this exceptional mechanical masterpiece incorporating a miniature planetarium (see much more about orreries and this model in particular in The Graham Geo. Graham Orrery Tourbillon: Analyzing A Mechanical Wonder).
First introduced in 2013, Graham’s technical marvel is inspired by the genius clockmakers of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, who were able to craft these unique pieces predicting and displaying the relative positions and motions of the planets, the moon, and the sun. Among them were George Graham and Thomas Tompion, who built the first orrery (mechanical model of the solar system) of the modern era in 1704.
Today, wristwatches displaying solar systems are as rare as hen’s teeth, which makes them even more desirable; only a handful of highly skilled craftsmen are able to create these unique pieces. One of these workshops belongs to ingenious watchmaker and complication specialist Christophe Claret, which crafted the extremely complex manual orrery tourbillon movement exclusively for Graham.
Symbolizing the sun, the tourbillon in the center of the blue lacquered dial with off-centered time indication is beautifully staged beneath an engraved cage. The earth, moon, and Mars follow their own orbits on the outer scales representing the Gregorian calendar and the Zodiac.
All of the solid celestial bodies are crafted in rare materials with great attention to detail: the earth is represented by a polished sphere of Kingman turquoise, while the moon and Mars are crafted from genuine meteorite fragments.
The back of the watch likewise reveals a feast for the eyes. Intricately designed and executed Caliber G1800 offers a power reserve of 72 days thanks to twin spring barrels. Three hundred-year counters on the periphery indicate when the planets need correction: the moon after seven years, Mars after 25 years and, if everything goes well, the earth after 1,156 years.
For more information, please visit www.graham1695.com/index/watches/geo-graham/tourbillon and/or The Graham Geo. Graham Orrery Tourbillon: Analyzing A Mechanical Wonder.
Quick Facts Geo.Graham Orrery Tourbillon
Case: 48 x 17.6 mm, pink gold
Movement: hand-wound Caliber G1800 by Christophe Claret, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency; power reserve 72 hours
Functions: hours, minutes; mechanical solar system model displaying earth, moon, and Mars with Gregorian and Zodiac calendars; year counter on the case back with planet correction indicators
Limitation: 8 pieces
TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Racing Stripes
Speaking of blue dials, another legendary timepiece is set to take center stage at Gotham Hall: TAG Heuer’s Monaco.
When it was introduced back in 1969 – by the way, it was simultaneously introduced in New York and Geneva – the new chronograph featured a metallic blue dial. This intense color was actually not the big element that made this timepiece noteworthy, but rather its signature square case, which was surprisingly water resistant.
It also marked a premiere in Swiss watchmaking as the proverbial squaring of the circle in the field of precision case manufacturing. The innovation came from case manufacturer Piquerez, who had developed a new sealing system, whereby four notches snapped into the bottom of the square case allowing for a real pressure resistance.
More importantly, the content of the square case also constituted a first: alongside Zenith’s El Primero and Seiko’s 6139, it was one of the first automatic chronograph movements. Heuer’s Caliber 11, equipped with an effective micro-rotor and nicknamed “Chronomatic,” was a joint development with Breitling, Leonidas, Hamilton/Büren, and Dubois Dépraz.
Another remarkable feature was the crown on the left side of the case, indicating that there was no need to wind the watch manually. The pushers to operate the chronograph were still positioned on the right side of the case.
Soon the Monaco became one of the most sought-after chronographs of that era, not only because of its unique character that deeply polarized (and still polarizes) watch lovers, but also because it starred on the wrist of Steve McQueen, who portrayed Michael Delaney in the 1970s movie Le Mans.
In addition, it was a favorite of many of the era’s prominent race drivers such as Jo Siffert and Nikki Lauda. Ever since, it has retained the aura of speed and roaring engines, becoming a popular collector’s piece.
At WatchTime New York, TAG Heuer introduces an exceptionally colorful version of the Monaco Gulf Special edition, once again evoking a distinct 1970s spirit. In Le Mans, Gulf Oil sponsored Michael Delaney; the American company’s eye-catching logo with blue, white, and orange stripes was prominently displayed on his Porsche 917 and his overall.
The Monaco Gulf Special Edition is a tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Gulf Racing stripes. In line with them, the watch features the striking blue and orange racing stripes along with the Gulf logo above the date at 6 o’clock. The unmistakable color scheme is maintained throughout the design of the timepiece, including the blue perforated leather strap accented with contrasting orange stitching.
This Monaco edition’s 39 mm case obviously retains the signature square shape, but also the left-hand crown and angled chronograph buttons on the right side. And don’t forget the subdials repeating the case shape. The watch, which is exclusively available in the United States, is powered by Caliber 11, an offspring of the original movement.
For more information, please visit www.tagheuer.com/en-us/watches/monaco-calibre-11-39-mm.
Quick Facts TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Racing Stripes
Case: 39 x 39 x 14.5 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 11, based on Sellita SW300 with Dubois Dépraz module 2006, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency; power reserve 40 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; date, chronograph
Bremont Supermarine Type 300
This latest edition of the Bremont Supermarine is surprisingly also available with a blue dial as well as a black one.
It is a picture-perfect example of a slightly elegant but nonetheless technically adept and highly functional diver’s watch, even though it bears the name of the historic British aircraft manufacturer that produced a seaplane and the Supermarine Spitfire fighter in the early 1930s.
Considering the history of this still-young British company founded in 2002 by brothers Nick and Giles English, who have both survived crashes with their vintage airplanes, the aviation-inspired naming makes absolute sense. As does the company’s particular strive for precision, which is underscored by C.O.S.C. chronometer certificates and additional testing of the modified Swiss movements.
While the first timepieces of the Supermarine line were introduced in 2010, and the Supermarine S500 and S2000 of that time offered extreme water resistance of 500 and 2,000 meters respectively, the latest additions, Type 300 and 301, withstand depths of 300 meters.
With a diameter of 40 mm versus the 43 and 45 mm cases of its professional-use predecessors, the new Type 300 provides much more wearability and comfort on the wrist. And a 300-meter water-depth rating is more than enough for the hobby diver.
The latest additions to the lineup sport bezels with ceramic inserts that match the dial colors; they are available on brushed stainless steel bracelets or an assortment of leather, rubber, and NATO straps. The watches are powered by chronometer-certified Caliber BE-92AE, based on the automatic ETA 2892.
Quick Facts Bremont Supermarine Type 300
Case: 40 x 13 mm, stainless steel, water resistant to 300 meters
Movement: automatic Caliber BE-92AE (ETA 2892 base); 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency; power reserve 38 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
For more on WatchTime New York, please visit www.watchtimenewyork.com.