Welcome to the 2017 edition of Quill & Pad’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions in which the team picks favorites and explains why.

The panelists are:

Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd writer
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Ryan Schmidt (RS), author of The Wristwatch Handbook: A Comprehensive Guide to Mechanical Wristwatches and contributor
Martin Green (MG), resident gentleman

Note: as a jury member, Quill & Pad editor-in-chief Elizabeth Doerr is excluded from this panel.

The GPHG foundation describes the Jewellery category for watches entered as, “watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gemsetting, and also distinguished by the choice of stones.”

Shortlisted Jewellery watches competing in the 2017 GPHG

MG: I am disappointed that this year there are no men’s watches competing in this category; last year the Hublot Big Bang Impact Bang was entered. Nevertheless, this is a strong lineup.

RS: And I’m disappointed that there are no mechanical movements in the Jewellery category, Martin – but goodness me, there are some jewels! Another common characteristic of the jewelry category is the use of hidden (secret) dials, and there is a very satisfying selection of them this year.

IS: I find the Jewellery category to be impossible to judge accurately without actually holding, wearing, and manipulating the pieces as many of them are so tactile that the gems come alive with the slightest movement. I’ll be awarding even higher points in this category than usual for creativity, so I am likely to disappoint a couple of old favorites and I’ll even relax my penalization of unique pieces. I’m looking for more art than horology.

GG: All right, it’s time for my annual disclaimer: what I don’t know about jewelry could fill multiple volumes. And yet, there is a category for jeweled watches in the GPHG, so here we go!

JM: Jewelry is always a tough category, Gary, as it is so subjective to taste, and if you don’t get a chance to handle all the pieces (like most of us) you can only go on looks and descriptions. Still, there are some incredible pieces of craftsmanship in the Jewellery category, and I am certain we all have our favorites. The rules for the category help a little as the “watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gemsetting, and also distinguished by the choice of stones” are what should come out on top. But knowledge of the gem setting process is crucial to an informed decision.

Chanel Les Eternelles de Chanel Camélia Secret Watch

MG: With the Les Eternelles de Chanel Camélia Secret Watch, Chanel pays tribute to one of my favorite bracelets for ladies’ watches: a string of pearls! The fact that you can even transform this watch into a necklace increases the wearability of it ten fold, especially since most of these haute joaillerie pieces can hardly be considered everyday watches.

This Chanel would have been perfect, and my winner in this category, if it wasn’t for that ten-carat fancy brown-yellow diamond used in the design. If the designers had stuck to the stunning motif of the camellias, this watch would have looked far more powerful. And I think Coco would have agreed with me.

Chanel Les Eternelles de Chanel Camélia Secret Watch as a choker

IS: The Chanel Camélia Secret Watch just doesn’t work for me because that ten-carat Fancy Brown Yellow diamond is just too obtrusive on an otherwise discreetly elegant piece of jewellery. And I’m still pondering if the official diamond term “Fancy Brown” is an oxymoron or not.

Chanel Les Eternelles de Chanel Camélia Secret Watch with the secret (time) revealed

GG: The Chanel is certainly pretty, and the pearl necklace that transforms into a double-stranded bracelet is clever, but overall the watch seemed outgunned to me in this category, as did the perfectly nice Piaget.

Chanel Les Eternelles de Chanel Camélia Secret Watch with closed cover

For more information see www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/les-eternelles-de-chanel-camelia-secret-watch.

Quick Facts Chanel Les Eternelles de Chanel Camélia Secret Watch
Case: 18 x 5.5 mm, white gold
Gems: pearl bracelet, 503 brilliant-cut diamonds, one 10-carat fancy brown-yellow diamond
Movement: quartz caliber
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: 723,796 Swiss francs

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery

MG: The Bulgari Serpenti has some of the most stunning diamond-set watches for women in its collection, but this isn’t one of the best examples. The two heads make it a bit of an awkward-looking design, especially with the large diamonds and emeralds placed on the head of the serpents. Medusa might go for this, but other ladies might fare better picking another Serpenti from the collection.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery with open mouth

JM: This watch and the Audemars Piguet are the only two I personally held while attending fairs this year, and I can attest to this piece being fan-freaking-tastic. The build quality is stunning and the settings are perfect. The style is rather interesting and it fits nicely on the wrist (well, maybe not my wrist), not to mention that the articulating snake head that opens to show the time feels strong and secure, a possible issue in jewelry pieces. Alas, it also feels a bit unwearable unless you have the perfect outfit or are the most glamourous woman in the world. I know every woman is, but this piece is a bit intimidating in its incredibleness in my opinion.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery

IS: I’m not much into jewelry, fine or otherwise, but I would love to have a Bulgari Serpenti: I’d take it out in secret and enjoy the pleasure of running it through my hands. The way the snake coils and moves has to be experienced to believe, but, as much as I’m a fan of the Serpenti, it will take more than a variation on an admittedly, and deservedly, successful, but too long-running, theme to do well in this category.

GG: For my third choice, I was hung between the Chopard and the Bulgari. I was inclined to go for the Chopard and its opening lotus blossom, but was a bit concerned that in the closed position the jeweled lotus flower was a bit too much of a good thing. The two-headed serpent of the Bulgari is gorgeous, and as the first two-headed Bulgari watch of its kind it gives the brand the chance to load up with even more big diamonds and emeralds.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery

RS: The Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery is very special. It is a unique piece and it represents the first time that the brand has used a double-headed snake in its Serpenti range. For me, the use of emeralds and green hands perfectly accent the watch, providing the snake with striking eyes and a time-indicating tongue. I also think the range of diamond cuts (I count four) is excellently employed to bring life to this creature. It’s my favorite for the win this year.

Further reading: Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History.

For more information see www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/serpenti-misteriosi-high-jewellery.

Quick Facts Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery
Case: 17 x 40 x 8 mm, white gold
Gems: dial set with 82 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.41 ct); head decorated with 2 pear-shaped emerald eyes and one round-cut emerald (~6.08 ct) as well as brilliant-cut and marquise-cut diamonds; bracelet set with 555 brilliant-cut diamonds (~15.08 ct)
Movement: quartz caliber
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: 568,000 Swiss francs

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage

MG: This is a very expressive diamond-set watch, one with a lot of character. This was to be expected, as the previous two installments of the trilogy, of which it is the closing act, were also equally as expressive. It is a watch that approaches haute joaillerie timepieces from a very contemporary angle, and that is something that I think this part of the watch world needs. Unfortunately, the Diamond Outrage is also a challenging watch to wear, which limits its use strictly to very special occasions.

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage

GG: The Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage completes a trilogy that in past years brought us the Diamond Punk and Diamond Fury, and it is a corker! Those wacky spikes ranging from 29 to 40 mm speak for themselves, and this watch pretty much defines the term “wrist presence” as far as I’m concerned.

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage spikes

RS: What a monster! Each year for the past three years Audemars Piguet has thrown huge firepower at this category. That profile view of the watch is staggering, presenting some of the best gem setting and character in the pre-selection. And the snow setting on the cones is incredible. The Diamond Outrage gets my second place vote.

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage

IS: The problem with the Audemars Piguet Diamond trilogy − Diamond Outrage will be the last, following Diamond Punk in 2015 (which won the Jewellery category that year) and Diamond Fury in 2016 − is that the pieces are so far out of the norm and three-dimensional that two-dimensional photos serve them very poorly. Where they look strangely formed and flat on screen or paper, in reality are vibrant with life much more harmonious in three dimensions (four including time). The Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage (all have great names for the shapes) is no doubt very finely crafted, and we know the concept is popular as the Diamond Punk took this prize in 2015, but I think that will rule this watch out (though it’s worked for the Tudor Black Bay).

JM: In third place I go with a stylistic favorite that keeps me enthralled, the AP Diamond Outrage. A follow-up to the Diamond Fury and Diamond Punk, the Outrage is the most extravagant of the trio as the tall spikes with snow-set diamonds and invisible-set baguette-cut diamonds (depending on the spike) jet out in every direction. It is an incredible piece of wristwear and I absolutely love the style. However it does feel a bit “in-line” with what Audemars Piguet has released before and therefore feels more like a line extension than something totally new (I know it is completely new and unique, but we’re judging here, folks!). I feel like it is a strong contender, but given its large shape, it is the least wearable of my top three and since it’s meant to be worn and adored, it doesn’t take the top spot.

Further reading: Five $1 Million Wristwatches Already Introduced In 2017.

For more information see www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/diamond-outrage.

Quick Facts Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage
Case: 34 x 24 x 12 mm, white gold
Gems: 9,923 brilliant-cut diamonds (50.06 ct) and 354 baguette-cut diamonds (15.85 ct)
Movement: quartz caliber
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: 1,238,000 Swiss francs

Piaget Hide & Seek Manchette

MG: Piaget’s Manchette watches are proof positive that jewelry watches can indeed be worn every day. They have a subtle and timeless elegance, which Piaget highlights by placing marquise-cut diamonds on some of the bracelet segments. The lapis lazuli dial gives this watch the dash of color it needs, while also showcasing the brand’s expertise in this field.

In fact, the entire watch is a lesson in Piaget history, as the brand has made this type of watch since the 1950s. In addition to the wide range of crafts that Piaget masters (and are beautifully shown in this timepiece), the quartz movement is also made in the manufacture at La Côtes-aux-Fees, while the gold bracelet is made by hand in the manufacture in Geneva, where the diamond setters also reside.

Piaget Hide & Seek Manchette

IS: What more can I say about the Piaget Hide & Seek Manchette other than I like it. Very much. The design looks modern and fresh, the intense blue of the lapis lazuli dial really explodes as the only source of color, and the diamonds around the bezel and in the cuff (manchette is French for cuff) are sure to scintillate. I’m giving the Hide & Seek Manchette my number three vote.

Piaget Hide & Seek Manchette

For more information see www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/hide-seek-manchette.

Quick Facts Piaget Hide & Seek Manchette
Case: 37 x 18 x 6.5 mm, white gold
Gems: 36 marquise-cut diamonds, lapis lazuli dial
Movement: quartz caliber
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: 135,000 Swiss francs

Chopard Lotus Blanc Watch

RS: We’ve got opening and closing doors and mouths in this category, but the unfolding of Chopard’s lotus flower is probably the most elegant and satisfying of mechanisms this year. Overall I find myself wondering what it might look like on a differently configured bracelet; I am not sold by this one, so the watch gets a vote from me, but for third place.

Chopard Lotus Blanc Watch with secret watch open

MG: This is a true gala watch by Chopard: playful, elegant, and, yes, also delightfully decadent. By connecting the pavé-set lotus flower to five relatively small strings made of gold and set with diamonds, the designers emphasized the size of the flower. The fact that the petals open so gracefully to reveal the time, just like a real lotus flower, only enhances the captivation of this marvelous piece!

Chopard Lotus Blanc Watch with flower closed

IS: I like the Chopard Lotus Blanc Watch. I like the three-dimensionality of the exquisitely formed lotus flower when it’s closed and the sheer joy conveyed by the “open arms” of the open flower to reveal the full pavé watch dial below. This watch is so pavé that it should be called PAVE as every visible square millimeter not required for support is covered in 25.66 carats of glittering white diamonds. The blued steel hands are set off perfectly against the diamond-covered dial. While I’m voting the Chopard Lotus Blanc Watch my number two pick, it would not surprise me at all if the GPHG jury voted it number one.

For more information see www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/lotus-blanc-watch.

Quick Facts Chopard Lotus Blanc Watch
Case: 26.75 x 19.2 mm, platinum and titanium
Gems: 25.66 ct white diamonds
Movement: quartz caliber
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: 798,000 Swiss francs

Chaumet Frise Divine

MG: Chaumet draws with gold and gemstones on this watch! What the brand has achieved with the Frise Divine is absolutely incredible: it is a very complex piece in which Chaumet shows that it is an absolute master.

With dashes of yellow gold, seemingly placed at random, the designers give the Frise Divine so much more depth. The same can be said of the different gemstone settings and even their sizes. This is Parisian haute joaillerie at its finest! My favorite, and the winner, in this category!

Chaumet Frise Divine with watch showing

IS: Maybe this is just a sign that I need to get out more, but I’m predicting that the Chaumet Frise Divine will win the Jewellery Category of the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – and not because it’s so complicated: a sparkling branch brooch unclips from the cuff bracelet and can be used independently. But that counts for naught because to my eye, the overall design and execution is just so pleasing; forms, shapes, colors, and choice of gems are just all spot on. The Chaumet Frise Divine looks like the nature-inspired artwork it is, and I’m looking forward to seeing Chaumet up there on the podium receiving the prize (or eating ever more humble pie).

Chaumet Frise Divine detachable frond pin

JM: I guess I know the style of jewelry that makes me feel beautiful (yeah, I said it) because I cannot imagine wearing this as a woman (even though I’m a guy) and not feeling elegant and radiant. The inspiration for the piece comes from nature and Greek mythology, and the motifs presented feel complementary to the human form. The way the leaves and stems intertwine makes it feel as if it is predicting a loving embrace, either from a lover, friend, or the world you live in. The interplay of shapes and settings, along with the gentle colors and inclusion of marquetry make this piece something I love.

I wish I could give it to someone special so she too could feel the elegance coming from the craftsmanship. Okay, I need to reel it in a little, I think.

Regardless of how it makes me feel, the Chaumet Frise Divine stands as a beautiful example of gem and stone setting and of clean and thoughtful design. It also seems extremely wearable, which makes it a perfect wrist companion.

GG: Okay, I do know enough about jewelry to know that Chaumet has a long and distinguished history as the creator of jeweled tiaras for the crowned heads and wealthy families of the world, and that patrimony calls out to me as I look at this stunning bracelet patterned on a laurel wreath. At the end of the day the elegance of this piece spoke to me more than the outright audacity of the Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage; and while it perhaps makes the Chaumet a bit less “watch-like,” I thought that the matching brooch that can be either worn separately or switched out for the watch module on the bracelet was a nice touch.

For more information see www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/frise-divine.

Quick Facts Chaumet Frise Divine
Case: 19 x 7.28 mm, white gold
Gems: chalcedony, sapphires, diamonds
Movement: quartz caliber
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: one unique piece
Price: 610,000 Swiss francs

Predicted Winners

Ian: Chaumet Frise Divine
Martin: Chaumet Frise Divine
Gary: Chaumet Frise Divine
Joshua: Chaumet Frise Divine
Ryan: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery