Iconic Breguet codes with a contemporary twist
Breguet Marine: inspired by the sea
Manufacture caliber 582QA
Ulysse Nardin Adds A Casual Military Look To The Marine Torpilleur Collection
Even in Switzerland, there are not many watch brands that can pride themselves on such a long history marked by so many innovations as Ulysse Nardin. The creative think tank founded in Le Locle in 1846 offers a fascinating collection in the modern age based on the design and idea of its marine chronometers of yore.
From complex minute repeaters – some of them equipped with tiny animated figures called jaquemarts making for a lively scene on the dial – to the most sophisticated perpetual calendar, one that can be set both forward and backward, to charming music-box-style watches that play a tune on request and the most ambitious tourbillon creations and planetarium pieces, Ulysse Nardin brilliantly masters the entire range that the wonderful world of haute horlogerie has to offer. And Ulysse Nardin consistently raises the bar.
Aside from technical excellence, Ulysse Nardin’s expert knowledge also includes some of the most refined and time-consuming traditional handicrafts such as grand feu enamel and hand-painted miniature enamel dials that are true and long-lasting pieces of miniature art (see Why Do Ulysse Nardin’s Dials Look So Good? Because Donzé Cadrans Authentically Fires Enamel).
Another interesting facet of Ulysse Nardin is the firm’s rich nautical heritage, which is one that dates back to its early beginnings; its eponymous founder became famous for making precise and reliable marine chronometers for navigation purposes. Today an entire collection, the emblematic Marine, is dedicated to this strong heritage.
The Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur
Delighting fans of Ulysse Nardin’s sporty side, the Marine line was enriched by the new Torpilleur in the summer of 2017, whose raison d’être was to introduce an entry-level price point to the line (see Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Torpilleur And Marine Tourbillon Torpedo Toward Value-Consciousness).
Now, new limited editions of the certified chronometer with a decidedly new vintage feel and some military inspiration add a salty breeze to the new line.
This military style didn’t appear out of thin air, either. Like many major Swiss watch brands, Ulysse Nardin produced wristwatches intended for use by armed forces on both sides during World War II. The case back with an engraved Torpilleur boat bears witness to this history of military timepieces as do the bold oversized crown and fluted bezel of the sandblasted stainless steel case, which is a first for the Marine collection. The ensuing grey hue, one that almost looks like titanium, matches the vintage-style, brown leather strap in a amazing way.
The dials, black or eggshell white in color, are also surprising with their new stylistic approaches. Although they display the essential characteristics of a chronometer-type wristwatch – which is naturally all about legibility – instead of the Roman numerals Ulysse Nardin generally utilizes, the new Torpilleurs feature large, luminous Arabic numerals.
Outlined, the numerals create an expressive, almost three-dimensional effect. In any case, they are very prominent and fit perfectly with the typical Marine line hands.
The subdial for the small seconds at 6 o’clock is also quite prominent, stretching right from the center to the dial’s edge. It includes the limited-edition number and the letters “CW,” standing for “Chronometer Watch.”
New vintage on the outside, high-tech DIAMonSIL on the inside
As it is to be expected from the Swiss brand, inside the stainless steel case ticks a top-notch movement, developed and manufactured in-house.
Automatic Caliber UN-118, equipped with the brand’s proprietary DIAMonSIL anchor escapement and patented inertia balance wheel with silicon hairspring, boasts a power reserve of 60 hours.
Two certificates, an official one from the Swiss C.O.S.C. and the in-house Ulysse Nardin certification, testify to its chronometric performance, robustness, and reliability.
For more information, please visit www.ulysse-nardin.com/product/marine-chronometer-torpilleur.
Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
Case: 44 mm, sandblasted titanium
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber UN-118 with patented inertia balance wheel and silicon hairspring; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency; power reserve 60 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 300 pieces in each dial color (black, eggshell white)
Also published on Medium.