Seiko’s premium mechanical collection Grand Seiko – relaunched in 2010 and a brand of its own since 2017 – has long been an insider tip in collector circles. Thanks to its advanced technology, superb design features, and authentic feel, it is highly sought-after by connoisseurs.

Some even consider Grand Seiko calibers among the world’s finest mechanical movements.

So it seems only natural that Seiko pull out all the stops for Baselworld 2018: limited editions with the latest technology while conserving its original aesthetics – a task that the Japanese watch giant fulfills with much aplomb.

Over the past years, we have seen awesome re-editions of legendary Grand Seiko milestones based on the original adage, “to create the most advanced practical watch in the world.”

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 in stainless steel

One of many recent examples is the re-creation of the first Grand Seiko from last year (see Grand Seiko: A New Direction With New Models For 2017), powered by a 4 Hz, manual winding caliber accurate to -1 to +5 seconds per day and boasting a remarkable power reserve of 72 hours.

Available in platinum, yellow gold, and stainless steel, it perfectly recalled the minimalism of the first Grand Seiko models.

Seiko technology: “very finely adjusted”

Baselworld 2018 again sees the introduction of great Grand Seiko models that push chronometric boundaries even further. On the occasion of Caliber 9S’s twentieth anniversary, Seiko created a series of three limited-edition timepieces for men.

Introduced in 1998, automatic Caliber 9S was an entirely new construction made to deliver the high precision and excellent durability for which Grand Seiko was renowned.

This caliber has been continuously enhanced ever since, with the addition of new Spron alloys for both the mainspring and the hairspring as well as MEMS-engineered components using a Seiko LIGA technology that sees key components manufactured to tolerances as small as 1/1,000^th of a millimeter. “MEMS” stands for “Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems.”

Caliber 9S is the platform upon which the entire Grand Seiko suite of mechanical calibers is built.

Perhaps the most notable of the three new limited timepieces – and the one likely to spark the highest interest in collectors’ circles – is the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A. in platinum, which is limited to just 20 pieces.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A.

The abbreviation “V.F.A.” in the name refers to Grand Seiko’s adage “Very Finely Adjusted,” which has dominated the brand’s precision guidelines since 1969.

With the extraordinarily precise rate of its 9S85 Hi-Beat 36000 caliber, which gains no more than three seconds and loses no more than one second per day partially thanks to the increased 5 Hz frequency, this new creation continues the noble V.F.A. tradition in 2018.

Expert craftsmanship

The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A. excels both in terms of its mechanics and features a new interpretation of the much loved Grand Seiko design created by Nobuhiro Kosugi, designer of the first 9S watch in 1998.

So-called Zaratsu polishing extends to the very edge of the case lugs, where curved surfaces meet sharply defined hairline finishes to create perfect triangles, evoking an ever-changing interplay of light and shadow.

The dial is likewise exceptional: its design incorporates the initials “GS” in a delicate mosaic-like pattern radiating from the center.

Alongside the Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A., two other limited editions are launching: a yellow gold-encased series of 150 pieces and a stainless steel edition limited to 1,500 units.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A. in platinum

Both share case and dial designs with the V.F.A. and are likewise powered by Caliber 9S85.

The gold version, however, is adjusted to the Grand Seiko Special standard and offers a precision rate of +4 to -2 seconds per day. Like the V.F.A., its oscillating weight is adorned with the Grand Seiko lion emblem in 18-karat gold symbolizing its enhanced accuracy.

The stainless-steel version’s oscillating weight is made of tungsten and titanium, the latter’s surface colored blue thanks to anodic oxidation, a treatment that subjects the metal to electrolysis to artificially create an oxide film. The thickness of the oxide film determines the exact color.

According to Grand Seiko, all three limited editions are available as of March 2018.

Grand Seiko especially for women

Although Grand Seiko has until now made watches par excellence for men, the brand is not entirely a male domain. Therefore, Grand Seiko has a surprise up its sleeve for women at Baselworld 2018: an all-new automatic movement clad in a beautiful pink gold case.

Grand Seiko Automatic for women, Caliber 9S 20th Anniversary Limited Edition

Just 4.49 mm in height, this 4Hz-caliber delivers a 50-hour power reserve and a precision of +8 to -3 seconds per day.

Grand Seiko Caliber 9S85

Just like its “male” counterparts, the 9S25 uses Grand Seiko’s most advanced technologies, including the latest Spron 510 and 610 alloys for the mainspring and balance spring and MEMS engineering for the pallet fork, escape wheel, and other key components.

MEMS technology escape wheel featuring a flower pattern in Grand Seiko Caliber 9S25

In fact, the MEMS technology has allowed the redesigned escape wheel a new five-petal flower shape inside its toothing. According to Grand Seiko, the new design is lighter but still designed for maximum durability. And it adds a new degree of elegance even if it will hardly ever be seen except by the most curious and the watchmakers who work on the movement.

Caliber 9S25’s gear train layout is entirely new as is the profile of the teeth on each gear to ensure maximum energy efficiency.

The painstakingly finished caliber can be admired through the watch’s sapphire crystal case back – and with a loupe you can just see the beautiful escape wheel.

A high level of handcraft went also into the production of the dial, whose delicate pattern emblazoned in silver lamé reflects the snowy landscape of northern Japan and in particular Mt. Iwate, which overlooks Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio, this limited edition’s birthplace.

Diamonds are an unusual feature to be included in a Grand Seiko watch, but this one has them: the diamond-cut bezel (another unusual feature) is adorned with 37 diamonds, while one larger diamond is set into the crown and eleven more mark hours on the dial.

This watch, offered in a limited edition of 50, will be available as of July 2018.

For more information, please visit www.grand-seiko.com.

Quick Facts Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A (Ref. SBGH265)
Case: 39.5 x 13 mm, platinum
Movement: automatic Caliber 9S85, 5 Hz/36,000 vph frequency, accuracy +3 to -1 seconds per day, magnetic resistance 4,800 A/m, power reserve 55 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 20 pieces
Price: €53,500

Quick Facts Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Special (Ref. SBGH266)
Case: 39.5 x 13 mm, yellow gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 9S85, 5 Hz/36,000 vph frequency, accuracy +4 to -2 seconds per day, magnetic resistance 4,800 A/m, power reserve 55 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 150 pieces
Price: €27,000

Quick Facts Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 (Ref. SBGH267)
Case: 39.5 x 13 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 9S85, 5 Hz/36,000 vph frequency, accuracy +5 to -3 seconds per day, magnetic resistance 4,800 A/m, power reserve 55 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 1,500 pieces
Price: €6,300

Quick Facts Grand Seiko Automatic for women, Caliber 9S 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (STGK002)
Case: 28.7 x 10.8 mm, pink gold set with diamonds (0.88 ct)
Movement: automatic Caliber 9S25, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, accuracy +8 to -3 seconds per day, magnetic resistance 4,800 A/m, power reserve 50 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 50 pieces
Price: €32,500