When it comes to the story of fine watchmaking in Glashütte, Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826-1885) was more a volume than a chapter.
It was Grossmann’s friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange (1815-1875), the famous founder of the Glashütte watch industry, who enticed him to move from Dresden to the small town in the Erzgebirge, encouraging him to found his own mechanical workshop.
Grossmann quickly set to work and while he chiefly produced tools and measuring instruments, he also found time to make a few pocket watches and pendulum clocks.
Very committed to the welfare of Glashütte and later a representative of the Royal Saxon state parliament, Grossmann was the author of many technical books and a leading proponent of establishing the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte, where he also lectured as a way of passing his knowledge on. After his sudden death in 1885, Grossmann’s manufactory was closed.
Thanks to Christine Hutter, a trained watchmaker herself, the name Moritz Grossmann once again stands as an example of fine German watchmaking at the very highest level. Hutter is an industry expert whose career spans from A. Lange & Söhne to time spent in Switzerland and, finally, relaunching Moritz Grossmann in 2008.
Today, in the ultra-modern Moritz Grossmann manufactory overlooking Glashütte, virtually everything is done in house, from the first sketches to the final timepieces, respecting Grossmann’s philosophy of combining high precision with fine aesthetics.
I caught up with Hutter for a look back on ten years of excellent Glashütte timepiece manufacturing.
Q&P: This year, Moritz Grossmann, a brand name you revived, celebrates its tenth anniversary. Would you have thought back in 2008 that the company would be so successful today?
By founding my own manufactory for sophisticated mechanical timepieces in 2008, I made my lifelong dream happen. Even then I was aware of the particular meaning of the name “Moritz Grossmann” as it enjoys historical significance not only in the town of Glashütte but also on the international watchmaking scene. Our collection continues Grossmann’s credo of the simple yet mechanically perfect watch. Based on this brand philosophy and enhanced by new design approaches and technical innovations, we have built up today’s Grossmann watches step by step.
Moritz Grossmann is not just a step in my career: I put my heart and soul into this company. I am particularly proud of my team, which contributes with much energy and diligence to the success of the manufactory. I have great respect and gratitude for my employees. Without their great support, we would not have been able to successfully build the company in such a short period of time.
Q&P: What motivated you to start a new watch brand in the first place and why did you decide on the historical personality Moritz Grossmann?
As a trained watchmaker I have always had the vision in mind to build my own watch brand. I was fascinated by the idea of founding a small but fine manufactory producing mechanical watches of the highest quality. At the same time, I also realized that there are many admirers of fine mechanical watches around me and the world over.
In 1996 I came to Glashütte for business reasons and gained valuable experience in marketing and distribution.
During this time, I came across the name Moritz Grossmann. I realized the importance this particular nineteenth century watchmaker has. The story of Moritz Grossmann, his personality, and his work both in the art of watchmaking and in teaching of knowledge, and his social and political commitment increasingly fascinated me. My vision was to build up my own business under his name. With the support of my family, I was able to acquire the trademark rights to the name Moritz Grossmann.
Meanwhile, I was working in Switzerland for Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA as managing director. During this time, I was able to make numerous contacts with sophisticated collectors.
With the help of good friends from Switzerland, it finally became possible for me to make my dream come true in 2008. On November 11, I founded Grossmann Uhren GmbH and, together with my colleagues, started today’s legacy of Moritz Grossmann.
Q&P: What would make Moritz Grossmann particularly proud if he held a modern Grossmann in his hands, and what are you, as a watchmaker, particularly proud of in retrospect?
Each of our watches is special to us, since we try to achieve the highest quality at all times. We are particularly proud of our finishing and our watch hands, which we craft by hand. It is crucial for us not to employ automated production systems but to work with the utmost non-industrial care.
We are committed to the legacy of watchmaker Moritz Grossmann. This plays a role in every production step. Based on this tradition, we have evolved our watch brand. For example, we pay particular attention to the fact that traditional craftsmanship and mechanics from the time of Moritz Grossmann are further developed with the help of state-of-the-art production techniques and innovative approaches, thus transferring them into the new age.
Many of Moritz Grossmann’s ideas, which he incorporated in his pocket watches, can be found in our wristwatches. For example, the two-thirds plate, the regulating screw, and the screws in general are a tribute to the pocket watches of Moritz Grossmann’s era.
Of course, we think into the future and continuously expand our watch lines with new models. With the Tefnut line, we produce elegant ladies’ watches with high-quality finish and mechanical movements. This combination of horological class and feminine aesthetics is still a rarity in the watch industry.
Furthermore, even unconventional ideas are incorporated into our movements. In the Benu Tourbillon, for example, we use human hair for the stop-seconds function.
Q&P: Since every single watch is crafted by the hands of experts, production numbers are quite limited. Approximately how many watches are manufactured every year and what is the goal for the future?
We take great care in increasing our production in small, healthy steps. Currently we manufacture less than 500 watches per year. Our goal is to grow slowly. In doing so, we want to uphold our high standards of quality craftsmanship. Therefore, we would like to manufacture a maximum of 1,000 watches per year in the future.
Q&P: Moritz Grossmann effortlessly exceeds the strict requirements of the “made in Glashütte” rule. What importance does the predicate “Glashütte” have in the world of haute horlogerie today?
The denomination of origin from Glashütte is a quality seal for collectors and watch connoisseurs worldwide. The Glashütte “rule” is still considered an unwritten and binding quality feature in our town. The predicate “Made in Glashütte” states that only watches receiving at least 51 percent of their added value in Glashütte are allowed to bear this quality seal.
However, at Moritz Grossmann we manufacture 85 percent of our movements ourselves. What’s even more, we are the only Glashütte manufactory that manually crafts the hands. There are only a few watch manufacturers around the world that produce their hands themselves. The craftsmanship that goes into our hands can be perceived, among other things, in that they are very individual and extremely fine.
We also want to make the special significance of the name Glashütte clearly visible. Each of our watches displays “Glashütte/SA” on its dial. We are proud to produce in Glashütte and we want people to know.
Q&P: Your tenth anniversary is celebrated with many intriguing new watches. Which is your personal favorite?
That’s really hard to say because I like all our watches. Each of our watches is special and individual in design. Our anniversary watches have a special meaning to me, though.
The Benu started it all. This is the reason why the design of the anniversary edition Benu Anniversary harks back to the first Benu.
With rare grand feu enamel dials in the colors blue for the platinum version and black for the white gold version, the Benu Anniversary is reminiscent of our very first watch.
For the Benu Lost in Space we played with proportions, utilizing a very small movement in a large case. The main dial displays the shape of the moon executed in handcrafted relief engraving.
The minimalistic subdial for the hour and minute indication shines intensely thanks to a grand feu enameling in white while the even-smaller subsidiary second dial strongly contrasts in black enamel.
The new Atum Backpage is also noteworthy. By mirroring the movement and bringing it to the dial side from the back of the watch, our high-quality finish becomes visible as you read the time. On the back of the watch, our manual winding and pusher mechanisms are visible for the first time.
And, finally, I’m a big fan of our Tefnut 1001 Nights for it reflects the combination of pure beauty with the values of our craftsmanship. This timepiece even has a story to tell, none other than the tale of One Thousand and One Nights. The Tefnut 1001 Nights is a tribute to Scheherazade, who enchants and seduces her king through the art of storytelling.
For more information, please visit www.grossmann-uhren.com.
Quick Facts Benu Lost in Space
Case: 44.5 x 13.8 mm, pink gold
Movement: manually wound manufacture Caliber 102.0, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, power reserve 48 hours, Grossmann balance
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking subsidiary seconds
Limitation: 26 pieces
Price: €45,600
Quick Facts Atum Backpage
Case: 41 x 11.35, pink gold or platinum
Movement: manually wound manufacture Caliber 107.0, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency, power reserve 42 hours, Grossmann balance, Grossmann winder with pusher
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking subsidiary seconds
Limitation: 18 pieces (platinum); pink gold non-limited
Price: €38,400 (pink gold), €46,800 (platinum)
Quick Facts Tefnut 1001 Nights
Case: 37 x 9.8 mm, white or pink gold set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds
Dial: mother-of-pearl and silvered brass set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds
Movement: manually wound manufacture Caliber 102.0, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, power reserve 48 hours, Grossmann balance
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 10 pieces each in white gold and platinum; 26 pieces in pink gold
Price: €39,400
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I am the recent owner of an Atum Pure, steel dial watch. I find the simplicity and purity of the design really elegant and I can verify as to its exceptional accuracy. It is a great timepiece for the money, which I would freely recommend to anyone.