2019 Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234: A Crowning Achievement In ‘Dating’

Starting at Baselworld 2018, Rolex has subtly been revisiting its 36 mm Datejust models. The two stainless steel/white gold models revealed at Baselworld 2019 were the last of these, and I am pleased to now delve into the details of this important modern wristwatch.

Up until the year 1945, when someone wondered what the date was, they looked it up on a calendar. In 1945, Rolex changed that with the introduction of the Datejust, which has the honor of being the first wristwatch to display the date in a window.

While calendar watches existed throughout timekeeping history, some with extraordinary astronomical complications in addition to perpetual and complete calendars, Rolex lays claim to introducing the first watch displaying “just” the date in a window.

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

Rolex Datejust Oyster case: the emperor’s new clothes

Rolex doesn’t mess with its formula for success, preferring instead to introduce subtle improvements such as those seen at Baselworld 2019.

We’re not talking New Coke here: the 36 mm Rolex Datejust is still wonderfully classic. It’s the real thing!

The Coke-bottle shape of the Oyster case has seen little redesign throughout its history, having remained in its essential form for a very long time. It fits nearly any wrist and suits nearly any occasion.

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

For 2019, the Oystersteel (Rolex speak for 904L stainless steel) case is now a bit more streamlined with a profile that recalls the lines of elegant sailboats; the toned contours simultaneously present a more sporting and professional air. The case lines are sharp and defined in their planar changes.

The case sides are now more perpendicular than they have ever been, although still not as abrupt as those of Rolex’s professional models, with a generous radius defining their convexity. One can feel the tension of the defined surface. It is a structured statement of the consolidation of visual attenuation.

Think (Rolex ambassador) Lindsey Vonn in her ski suit rather than in a swimsuit. And just like Vonn’s skiing style, the case is fully polished.

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

The Twinlock crown in tandem with the solid screw-down case back ensure the Oyster case is water resistant to 100 meters, comfortably able to withstand a weekend at the water park before returning to desk duty.

The Jubilee bracelet has also seen a slight revision, most evidently in the end links. The center links are now more robust than ever and designed to integrate better with the roundness of the case flank.

The bracelet, with its brushed outer links and high-polished center links, makes the Datejust positively glitter like a gentle afternoon sea when paired with the sparkling, white gold, fluted bezel.

Its Oysterlock clasp features a 5 mm Easylink extension, while the underside of the bracelet features broad channels between the brushed surface of the links to liberally aerate the wrist when worn. This, to me, is the height of comfort.

Rolex Datejust 36 dial: the furniture palace

This model’s dials have also been updated. Gone is the railroad track, replaced with simple index markers, which opens up the dial space quite a bit, creating larger and more open margins between the flange and hour indices.

The dial is available with applied Roman numerals, gem-set hour markers, or applied hour indices that have been enlarged slightly, gaining more Chromalight lume in the process. The hour hand now reaches even closer to the hour indices, closing the gap even further.

The white gold, five-pointed coronet at the top of the dial – marking its territory at 12 o’clock – is finished with the same high polish as the rest of the hour indices, but its form is gentler and rounder, a hallmark of the brand’s stature. In contrast, the white gold hour markers are chunky like a chocolate wafer candy bar.

'Swiss Made' dial detail on the Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

‘Swiss Made’ dial detail on the Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

Some configurations of the dials also feature a radially brushed metallic sunray finish that wasn’t available before. The surface – as is the case with everything Rolex does – is seemingly flawless. These new metallic sunray dials entertain without intermission.

The break – or plunge – from the edge of the hands to the dial is enhanced even more by the prominent, faceted edges of the baton shapes. White gold and gleaming, the longitudinally bisected hour and minute hands exude permanence. The second hand is an ever more persistent reminder of the stability of Rolex clockwork: its confident and even drift never disturbs or trivializes the supreme legibility of the dial and handset.

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

The athleticism of the case also influences the dial with its now less decorative and, for lack of a better word, sportier composition.

This applies to a dial base that feels more confident than ever in its identity. The quality, fit, and finish are outstanding, allowing the dial to be surveyed at any pace you like: stare or scan.

Rolex Datejust 36: the empirical cyclops and the royal motivator

Legibility is where the Datejust has always remained excellent. And ever since the date magnifier appeared on its crystal, reading the date has been the easiest task in the world.

Rolex 'Cyclops' lens fitted to the sapphire crystal to magnify the date

The Rolex ‘Cyclops’ lens fitted to the sapphire crystal to magnify the date

The so-called Cyclops defines this model’s purpose and defends its name, magnifying the date to an unmistakable degree. Placed toward the edge of the sapphire crystal, the Cyclops proves to be an adequate loupe through which to admire the perfectly cut execution of the date window.

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

The Cyclops comes with a double layer of anti-reflective coating while the rest of the crystal does not. In this reference’s configuration, the crystal is surrounded by a faceted, angular, high polished white gold bezel. The Rolesor (Rolex’s name for its combination of white gold and steel, a signature element of the brand since 1933) effect is powerful and instantly recognizable from a country mile.

Caliber 3235 is a new generation of Rolex movements that has been gently introduced throughout the Datejust family. It offers an accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day by way of a paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring, a Paraflex shock absorber, and the new Chronergy escapement.

Rolex Chronergy escapement

Rolex Chronergy escapement

This is what Rolex is best at: gradual progress of watch design and technical accomplishment whose aim is prolonging user satisfaction by offering improved products that retain the same core values that drew consumers’ interest in the first place.

The Datejust 36, now available in steel and Rolesor versions, stands as an improved offering that remains attractive, accomplished, and even more certain that the brand’s future is going to be built on the success of this accessible and abundant core model line – just like its past.

While the modern Rolex sports and professional models pay homage to their predecessors, the Datejust doesn’t have to. Its glory lies not atop the world’s highest mountain but at the top of the sales chart.

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

For me to call the Rolex Datejust one of Baselworld 2019’s most significant releases would not be an exaggeration, either from the point of view of the industry or the brand. I saw the crowds it attracted at the prominent green booth, and the fair was awash with attendees wearing all manner of Datejust, vintage and new.

All it needs to do is be transported from storefront window to wrist for its expertly proportioned, handsomely classic, tastefully reimagined presence to shine. The Rolex Datejust will prove to be stylish and competent no matter where you take it from there.

For more information please visit www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/new-datejust-36.

Quick Facts Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Reference 126234
Case: 36 mm, stainless steel body and white gold bezel (known as Rolesor in Rolex parlance), water resistant to 100 meters
Movement: automatic Caliber 3235, 31 jewels, 70 hours power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph, officially certified chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; instantaneous date
Price: €7,500/$8,200
Remark: five-year international guarantee

You may also enjoy:

Always Expect The Unexpected: Rolex Surprises Yet Again With The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34

Why I Bought It: Rolex Sky-Dweller In Stainless Steel Rolesor

Give Me Five! A Radiant Rolex Rainbow At Baselworld 2015

20 replies
  1. D.L.
    D.L. says:

    Your article was very nice On Rolex and its introduction of the new version of its 36mm datejust. But there’s just one problem. And that is with Rolex itself. I would really like to know what has become of them in terms of their awful treatment of customers. From top to bottom it seems they have not only become fully arrogant and dismissive of their customer base, but also that they could care less about losing a customer. I have waited for 2 years now to acquire a Submariner without any success, and when I inquire I’m told that nobody knows when they will be re-stocked. Okay, well I understand making the supply scarce to increase demand and marketing strategy, so I look to substitute the new Datejust 41 with the new movement, and lo and behold, that one is also not available in the configuration I’m looking for and I’m told there’ll be a wait for that one too, with no approximate arrival date to be given. Okay, well, what to do? And I’m told to get a different Rolex and when I decline that offer, the salesperson looks at me like I’m a jerk and walks away. Now that attitude comes from the top. That comes from not having or being able to get stock into the store. The Cases where the Rolex watches are shown are pretty much empty and have been and this is an authorized dealer, Geary’s, that Rolex supports and lends its name to. It’s obvious Rolex doesn’t care if it loses my business and I suspect I am no longer their target audience. So, I will not look to buy anything from them ever. It’s disappointing when a brand uses a marketing strategy to so thoroughly frustrate that it no longer inspires interest, but quite the opposite reaction. Good luck with that business model Rolex.

    Reply
    • Zef
      Zef says:

      The best way now to buy the most sought after Rolexes is to go to a second or third party trusted seller to find the ones that you really want check out our eBay listings and our store website we can accommodate you on the watch you want within a day. So for all those out on the hunt for the stainless steel beauties that are in stock contact us seven days a week

      Reply
    • Chia-Ming Yang
      Chia-Ming Yang says:

      No doubt they are great watches, but there are also some great watches which you can buy in a “normal way”. I’ve decided not to buy any of them, too.

      Reply
    • TN
      TN says:

      I gave up and went with a GS diver. I couldn’t have made a better choice. Under a loupe, it slaughters the Rolex in finish and quality. The springdrive mechanical movement is accurate to less than one second a day, and has a longer power reserve. Most importantly GS will bend over backwards to make sure you get the exact watch you want. Rolex is simply a brand marketing company, unless you are throwing millions at them, they could not care less about you.

      Reply
    • Saad Chaudhry
      Saad Chaudhry says:

      Hello D.L., and thank you for reading. Whether a dealer’s behavior toward its customers is dictated by the crown is hard to say, but it can be disagreeable and you are certainly not alone in feeling disenfranchised. Nevertheless, Rolex remains an extremely popular brand. At Baselworld this year, the Rolex booth was among the most visited and their products are attractive to a wide variety of people. Rolex is not the only game in town, however, and I hope that you find something that you can enjoy and wear in good health.

      Reply
  2. D.L.
    D.L. says:

    The point isn’t where can I get a used Rolex or where there are second or third party sellers. The point is rather that Rolex itself is behaving in such an obnoxious manner as to disengage me from wanting to spend anything on a product of theirs. I would now feel quite foolish and quite frankly, deservedly so, if I were to buy something with their name on it. Their dismissive and arrogant attitude is cause for concern. Again, disappointing.

    Reply
  3. Gil
    Gil says:

    A jeweller I know told me that Rolex have allocated the lion’s share of supply to China and Hong Kong for the past couple of years, so that might help explain the situation somewhat. He could’ve been talking nonsense, though.

    Reply
    • Hosea
      Hosea says:

      I think he talked non sense, because i just came home after spend 4 days in Beijing and Shanghai, and 1 day in Hong Kong. I have entered almost every Rolex boutiques , and did not see steel sport rolex, except 1 or 2 yacthmaster and milgauss. the rest are ladies models, two tone datejust with diamonds. And the sales person were very cold, did not show any enthusiastment to sell watches at all.

      Reply
      • Sam
        Sam says:

        Cold and unenthusiastic to sell sums up every Hong Kong Rolex AD in a nutshell. They tend to be dismissive and unhelpful when enquiring about specific models. But none of it matters because they won’t have anything you’ve come to buy anyway. Stock is terrible across the board with mainland Chinese scooping up bags full of whatever they can get their hands on.

        Reply
  4. Saad Chaudhry
    Saad Chaudhry says:

    Hello Tony P, and thank you for reading. I more than just like this watch – I am head over heels for it. I am a designer by profession and appreciate nuance in design wherever I can find it. The Rolex Datejust has it in spades, whether it is the crown-to-bezel ratio being 1:1, or the graceful curve of the case sides that would haunt Raymond Loewy’s dreams. The ever-improving execution (read quality) doesn’t hurt, and neither does Rolex’s commitment to resolute honesty toward the purpose of the Datejust. Good design is always honest, don’t forget. The Rolex Datejust is an improved offering in every way, and has gradually matured into a pearl from within the Oyster that cultured it. It is one of my favorite watches from this year’s Baselworld. How do you feel about it?

    Reply
  5. Roy Aguirre
    Roy Aguirre says:

    Hi Guys, I bought a Rolex date just 36 mm black dial in Canada. I am in Calgary. I got the watch on the 15 of July 2019. I just sent it back today (July 22 2019) because it gains seconds every day. In 72 hrs it gained 13 seconds. The dealer is shipping the watch to Toronto to get check by a professional Rolex watch guy. I love the watch it looks amazing. I just hope they are not making their parts in China because the quality is not there anymore. I also have a citizen ecodrive I had it for 13 years and it keeps better time that my new Rolex. I just wanted to share this because maybe more people are having the same issue.

    Reply
    • FR
      FR says:

      Comparing what is essentially a quartz movement (eco drive) to a mechanical is like comparing a horse driven carriage to a car. Two totally different things that are used the same way.

      Reply
  6. Roy Aguirre
    Roy Aguirre says:

    My 36 mm datejust suppose to be certify by – Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing) I really think they just make the watches and they don’t check anything. The watch should not lose or gain more that -2/+2 sec/day, after casing. Well that is what they say.

    I just bought it a couple weeks ago and the watch gained 13 seconds in 72 hrs. I was not impressed.
    If they make 1 million watches a year I don’t think they have the time or the people to check every single watch. Lets say Rolex makes watches 260 days of the year not including weekends. They make around 1 million watches a year that means they make 3846 watches a day. I don’t think they even check if the watch is running on time or not. I am saying this because my new 2019 new Rolex does not keeps the time. When it come to the brand I think Rolex did great branding the watches. The true is, they are just too busy to make a watch that actually keeps the time properly. I just had to let you know what is happening to my watch it is a brand new rolex. It went back to the rolex dealer in Toronto. I hope they can fix it.

    Reply
    • Saad Chaudhry
      Saad Chaudhry says:

      Hello Roy, and thanks for sharing. On the subject of anecdotes, my Rolex gains about 0.2 seconds a day (6 seconds a month). I’m sure you can understand when I say that I am very impressed with that. I also think that, based on the performance of my watch, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and Rolex tested the watch thoroughly to ensure that it operates well within their promised parameters before reaching my wrist. Citizen’s Eco-Drive is a technology reliant on quartz timekeeping and will inherently be more accurate than most if not all mechanical watches. I hope the professional Rolex watch guy in Toronto can help.

      Reply
    • Elizabeth Doerr
      Elizabeth Doerr says:

      Roy, it most likely got magnetized somewhere along the line, at least that’s what it sounds like to me. I hope that’s all it is because it takes like 10 minutes to fix (you can even fix that at home if you were of a mind to do it). Once in a while things happen that are beyond everyone’s control. Doesn’t mean that anyone did anything wrong. Good luck!

      Reply
  7. Marcus
    Marcus says:

    Anoher potrentially perfect watch ruined by Rolex- It is far too thin. looks effeminate. Should have been 12.5mm thick.

    Reply
    • Saad Chaudhry
      Saad Chaudhry says:

      Hello Marcus, and thank you for opining. The case is just shy of 12 mm thick. If you’re used to something different, that’s okay. Rolex, however, did nothing but improve on a successfully designed watch. Would you believe that even the GMT-Master II is < 12.5?

      Reply
  8. Rob
    Rob says:

    A couple of points/perspective: as to availability, for every disappointed potential customer, there are others that managed to get their Rolex watches rather quickly: I was able to get a GMT Master II BLNR from an AD in less than two weeks in 2018 – likely a bit lucky, but sometimes it’s about timing.

    As to accuracy issues, I think people forget that any one unit (data point) of a large volume manufactured item (like a watch) can have a problem. Both of my Rolex have performed very well, but statistically, it is possible to be at the edge of the Bell curve, with either an extremely accurate watch or an out of tolerance watch. I have a Timex (quartz) that is only off a few seconds over several years. Amazing, but I got lucky with that one – that’s probably not indicative of how every Timex will run.

    Third, I think people forget that Rolex (a non-profit company don’t forget) is in the business of making high quality watches – they are not necessarily in the business of making their watches available to everyone at a price they can afford. While there have been many “calls” by watch enthusiasts for Rolex to boost production to resolve the supply problem, I personally think Rolex has their production numbers planned well in advance and feels no obligation to “solve” this problem. Is it Rolex’s problem that the watch buying public has gone crazy over the Daytona or Batman (thus resulting in the high demand)? If they simply were out to make as much money as possible, they would either boost production on particular popular models or significantly raise their prices. Since they haven’t done either, how can we really say that they are just out to maximize their profit?

    Reply

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