As part of its 2019 releases – discussed in our round table on the Swatch Group’s Time to Move event – Glashütte Original announced a new diver’s watch line.
Yes, you read that correctly: a diver’s watch.
Glashütte Original SeaQ
A diver’s watch comes as a real surprise, for the German manufacture has made its reputation on high-end, classically elegant timepieces that re-interpret the art of Saxon watchmaking, combining characteristic elements with state-of-the-art manufacturing expertise.
With all kinds of sought-after large and small complications, ranging from perpetual calendars to tourbillons and beautiful moon phases, and not to forget its signature Panorama Date as well as extraordinary examples of skeletonized timepieces, the brand’s top-notch luxury collection caters to upmarket-oriented connoisseurs and collectors who keep more to the elegant side of timekeeping.
Glashütte Original SeaQ
And now taking a closer look at the brand-new SeaQ, these connoisseurs might well consider adding a genuine diver’s watch to their collections.
The SeaQ is a loyal tribute to the original Spezimatic launched in 1969 as a robust timepiece designed for divers. It was manufactured by Glashütte Original’s East German predecessor, Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe; at that time Glashütte was located in the former German Democratic Republic.
A vintage Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969
If you have been to the German Watch Museum in Glashütte you might have seen this particular automatic Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 on display there.
A vintage Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969
When it was introduced in 1969, the Spezimatic would have only been available to leaders of the regime and some elite units, meaning that today this Spezimatic model is coveted on the vintage market.
This status might be well the reason why Glashütte Original introduced its Vintage collection several years ago, which is inspired by its timepieces of the 1960s and 1970s. Historically inspired watches play an exceptional for the brand due to its rich heritage and the fact that it developed numerous distinctive models throughout its illustrious past.
Glashütte Original’s own archive and the city’s museum – which is run by the brand – are veritable gold mines for its designers and engineers, who, using a great deal of taste and respect for the advancements of days gone by, continue to evolve the brand’s stylistic vocabulary and finishing techniques to make these models perfect for modern-day wear.
In particular, the Sixties line is a picture-perfect example of well-made and -evolved vintage design, with its domed, “pie-pan” dial and the four idiosyncratic Arabic numerals.
The Sixties annual limited editions sporting colored dials with gradient effects that are crafted in the brand’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim using original tools to stamp an intricate pattern are incredibly expressive. You cannot help but admire them.
Glashütte Original SeaQ on the wrist
Two vintage variations of Glashütte Original’s SeaQ
Returning to the new SeaQ, which commemorates the fiftieth anniversary of the original diver’s watch, Glashütte Original launches a capsule collections that serves as a textbook example of modern diver’s watches.
All variations fulfill the standards that the international diver’s watch standard ISO 6425 requires for professional diver’s watches.
The most loyally executed versions are two three-handed versions with date windows in 39.5 mm stainless steel cases: the SeaQ 1969 and the SeaQ are both water resistant to 200 meters. Whereas the former is limited to 69 pieces, the SeaQ is offered in unlimited production.
Both models sport black dials, screw-down crowns, and the crucial counterclockwise rotating bezels featuring modern scratch-resistant, shiny ceramic inlays.
In a nod to the original, the SeaQ 1969 displays the original “25 Rubis” dial inscription – referring to Caliber 75 used in 1969 – as well as the word “shockproof,” a technical advancement of yesteryear of which the brand was particularly proud.
Glashütte Original SeaQ 1969
The resolutely vintage-styled dial’s numerals sport beige-colored Super-LumiNova “Old Radium I” and green Super-LumiNova hands, while the unlimited SeaQ also sports beige numerals, but hands coated with the “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova color.
Manufacture Caliber 39-11 sets the pace inside the SeaQ editions. The automatic movement finished to Glashütte Original’s typical high standards offers hacking seconds for precise setting and a classic date window at 3 o’clock (and not the brand’s signature Panorama Date, which would be too large for this dial).
Glashütte Original Caliber 39 powers the vintage-styled SeaQ versions
The movement is equipped with a skeletonized rotor with a heavy-metal oscillating weight. Under the closed case back engraved with a maritime motif and the continuous limitation number is Glashütte Original’s in-house swan-neck fine adjustment system for precise rate regulation.
Engraved solid case back of the Glashütte Original SeaQ 1969 prototype
A fun fact is that both the limited and non-limited versions of the SeaQ in 39.5 mm are priced exactly the same at $8,700 on the synthetic woven strap.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date: the technical flagship of the fleet
As its name implies, the beefier version of the new SeaQ features the brand’s signature Panorama Date, which is located at 4 o’clock on a sunray-finished black or blue dial.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date in blue
The indications are beautifully executed with white numerals on a black or blue background, the way I like it best. Here, Glashütte Original foregoes vintage-style Super-LumiNova in favor of pure white so the numbers and hands are classically modern.
And it is not only the sophisticated date indication that distinguishes the SeaQ Panorama Date as the new line’s technical flagship, that honor is underscored by its higher water resistance of 300 meters.
Glashütte Original Caliber 36-13 provides 100 hours of power reserve
And despite the increased water resistance, this watch features a sapphire crystal case back. Thanks for that, dear Glashütte Original team, for it would be a shame to hide the beautiful Caliber 36-13 behind a solid case back.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date in black
Glashütte Original utilizes its superior Caliber 36-13 here, introduced in 2016 in the Senator Excellence. “Excellent” seems to be the right term when you consider the various technical advantages of the movement, which was designed with high precision, reliability, and ease of service and assembly in mind.
With only one barrel, the automatic movement offers 100 hours’ worth of power reserve and is equipped with a silicon balance spring to improve durability and precision. A bayonet-style assembly within the case construction also increases stability and shock resistance.
This movement also features the brand-typical swan-neck spring and skeletonized rotor with a gold oscillating weight. Its Glashütte three-quarter plate is adorned with the typical Glashütte ribbed finish.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date in blue
The SeaQ Panorama Date is available with a grey nylon mesh strap and a stainless-steel bracelet. The latter’s clasp is adjustable in eight increments for optimum comfort. The SeaQ and SeaQ 1969 versions come with a water-resistant nylon mesh strap and a black rubber strap.
The new Glashütte Original Spezialist collection: a great start
All things considered, Glashütte Original has done a very nice job with its first modern diver’s watch, offering a great alternative to the tested-and-true divers on the market, particularly for enthusiasts who like to veer off the beaten track.
The vintage Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969
The SeaQ models are the first in Glashütte Original’s newly created Spezialist collection – and what a great start. Let’s hope for more tool and sports watches in the future here to revive the good old Glashütte traditions of instrument-style timekeeping.
For more information, please go to www.glashuette-original.com/spezialist-collection.
Quick Facts Glashütte Original SeaQ
Case: 39 x 12.15 mm, stainless steel, water resistant to 200 meters
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 39-11, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, power reserve 40 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: $9,900 (bracelet), $9,000 (rubber with deployant clasp)
Quick Facts Glashütte Original SeaQ 1969
Case: 39 x 12.15 mm, stainless steel, water resistant to 200 meters
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 39-11, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, power reserve 40 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 69 pieces
Price: $8,700 (on rubber or synthetic mesh), $9,000 (with deployant clasp)
Quick Facts Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date
Case: 43.2 x 15.65 mm, stainless steel, water resistant to 300 meters
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 36-13, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, power reserve 100 hours, silicon balance spring
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and large date
Price: $12,400 (bracelet)
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I just received my Glashutte sea q u limited version at 39.5mm with the caliber 39-11. I have 20 days or so with it and I must say I have regrets, for 9K plus you do NOT get blue screws on the movement, No gold rotor, only 40 hrs power reserve, no mention of adjustment position like the 36 caliber does, No certificate of accuracy for the 39, only for the 36 caliber. My back case is not perfectly aligned like I see in photos. I really don’t like that Glashutte is text twice are the dial, it looks redundant to me. Man I regret my purchase.i will lose money on this one.