by Martin Green
When it comes to watches, it is the new models that get the spotlight. Unless you are Rolex or Patek Philippe, however, a new dial color and minor tweaks are unlikely to make headlines.
While this is understandable, the little tweaks can often make a significant difference. Just as with cars, they can extend the life cycle of a model by imparting a fresh look or dock into a new (color) trend that boosts sales. And the fact of the matter is that the vast majority of the brands are in it to make money.
This also includes Chopard. However, as a family-owned company, Chopard can focus on long-term rather than quarterly profit. The result of this is that we don’t see Chopard chasing trends that often, and that’s thanks to the steady hand of co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele.
Two new Chopard Mille Miglia collection models coming up azzurro
It was Scheufele’s passion for fine automobiles that, from 1988 onward, resulted in a partnership with the Mille Miglia, the legendary classic car rally that sees historic automobiles driving the 1,000 miles (mille is Italian for “thousand,” and miglia is Italian for “miles”) from Brescia to Rome and back.
The Chopard Mille Miglia collection has been meticulously fine-tuned over the years, resulting in a lineup that has always been in touch with its era while keeping its “DNA” as pure as possible. It can also rely on a worldwide audience of fans, and I count myself among them.
Despite the historic rally being postponed to October 2020 this time around, Chopard still delights us with two tweaked limited editions: the Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control and the Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Chrono.
For those who speak Italian (azzurro is Italian for a “blue”), it will come as no surprise that both feature a blue dial. While blue dials are quite popular these days, there are blue dials and there are blue dials.
These Chopard models are in the latter category. They have a very fine circular satin brush on the main part of the dial with different finishes for the power reserve indicator and the subdials as well as a stunning cool hue of blue.
The color transforms the watch into a real eye-catcher and works splendidly with the red Mille Miglia logo, for which Chopard received special permission to place the date in.
What is perhaps the most remarkable is that Chopard made the Power Control a quasi two-tone watch by combining a stainless steel case with a crown and bezel in 18-karat pink gold, with hands to match.
It looks sensational, especially with the blue bezel insert, yet makes you wonder why the brand didn’t do the same with the Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Chrono. The reason might be that it would be a bit too much of a good thing and take away from the sporty character and already busy dial that chronographs tend to have.
Fortunately, Chopard didn’t change much else on these two models compared to their collection siblings. Both watches are still generously sized, measuring 44 mm in diameter for the Chrono and 43 mm for the Power Control, and both feature a chronometer-certified automatic movement that can be admired through the exhibition case back of the Power Control.
While neither of these watches is made for water sports – unless you’re driving Wet Nellie, the Lotus Esprit S1 that James Bond took underwater in The Spy Who Loved Me – their water resistance is quite high.
Both watches can go to 100 meters, an indicator of their refined build quality and the effort put into the details.
Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin: perpetual delight
Blue is not only the color of the day for the Mille Miglia models but also for the L.U.C Perpetual Twin with a new variation combining a stainless steel case with a vibrant blue dial in a satin finish.
While I consider Chopard a classic brand, its perpetual calendar, a classic complication, in the L.U.C Perpetual Twin – especially in this new color scheme – is a very contemporary looking. Its 43 mm diameter helps here as it imparts both a nice presence on the wrist and offers Chopard ample room to space out all the indicators nicely. The fact that it features hour indices instead of bold Roman numerals is also a big plus.
Another new version combines a pink gold case with a grey dial. While this is equally stunning, as the warm tone of the gold goes perfectly with the more somber-looking grey, it will probably appeal to an entirely different clientele.
While it remains one of the more contemporary styled perpetual calendars on the market, the new models give the L.U.C Perpetual Twin a classic twist that is bound to be appreciated by many.
The same can be said of the movement, a delightful manufacture caliber that impresses with its design, performance, and finishes. My favorite part is the micro rotor, which winds two spring barrels providing a long power reserve of 65 hours, something especially appreciated with a perpetual calendar.
All combined, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin is one of those watches leaving very little to be desired, especially in these two very smart-looking color combinations.
For more information, please visit chopard.com/intl/watches/men-s-watches/classic-racing/mille-miglia/mille-miglia-gts-azzurro-chrono.
Quick Facts Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control
Case: 43 x 11.43 mm, stainless steel and 18-karat pink gold
Movement: automatic Chopard Caliber 01.08-C (Fleurier Ebauches base), 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, power reserve indicator
Limitation: 500 pieces
Price: $9,690
Quick Facts Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Chrono
Case: 44 x 13.79 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber ETA Valjoux 7750, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; date, chronograph
Limitation: 750 pieces
Price: $7,400/CHF 7,400
Quick Facts Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin
Case: 43 x 11.47 mm, stainless steel or pink gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber L.U.C 96.22-L with twin spring barrels, 65-hour power reserve, officially chronometer certified by C.O.S.C., 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; perpetual calendar with day, large date, month, leap year
Price: $24,700 (stainless steel); $49,800 (pink gold)
You may also enjoy:
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin: Technically Superb, Ethically Crafted, And Simply Gorgeous
Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono: Who Do You See?
Chopard And The Mille Miglia: How An Event Became A Pillar For An Empire Across 30 Years
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