Quill & Pad
  • Home
  • Articles
  • About
  • Glossary
  • Contact
  • Click to open the search input field Click to open the search input field Search
  • Menu Menu

Two faces, Two dials, Two identities

High performance escapement with
“triple pare-chute” protection

Limited edition of 10 pieces

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: Cutting A Sharp Edge

by Martin Green

A dapper gentleman in a bespoke suit has no problem taking care of an endless array of bad guys: for decades, this was the nearly exclusive territory of James Bond. As new villains and a new-era Bond have forced 007 into messing up his suit each movie in record time, it leaves room for gentlemen spies who treat their Savile Row attire with a bit more respect.

Enter the Kingsman. This feature-film series is based on comics created by Dave Gibbons and Mark Millar and stars a special breed of British secret service operatives. Stylish as they are, they obviously need watches to match their tailored outfits.

Initially, it was British brand Bremont who had the honors in 2015’s Kingsman: The Secret Service, including a cameo in the movie by brand co-founder Nick English. In 2017’s Kingsman: The Golden Circle, TAG Heuer took over the ticking roles.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch on the wrist

For the upcoming The King’s Man, due out in February 2021 after being delayed several times, the position is taken over Jaeger-LeCoultre, who created an extraordinary watch for the occasion.

Razor-sharp: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Diving into its own brand history, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to transform a pocket watch from its rich past into a wristwatch. This couldn’t have been more appropriate as the 1907 pocket watch in question is nicknamed couteau, knife in French, as a reference to its razor-thin edge.

Jaeger-LeCoultre couteau pocket watch from 1907

This barely-there style is made possible by an ultra-thin movement designed by Edmond Jaeger. Before joining forces with Jacques-David LeCoultre, he developed quite a few movements for Cartier, among others, to make couteau pocket watches. One could say that this was one of his particular areas of expertise.

Fast forward to the current day and the realization that transforming a pocket watch into a wristwatch is not an easy thing to do. However, the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is a benchmark for it.

Jaeger-LeCoultre indeed succeeded in translating the razor-thin profile of the pocket watch to a wristwatch. The subtly stepped case allows the watch to rest on the wrist unlike any other (ultra-thin) watch.

On the knife’s edge: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch, 4.25 mm in height

While at a height of 4.25 mm it is by no means thick, it is also not the slimmest watch on the block – it is not even Jaeger-LeCoultre’s slimmest timepiece (that honor belongs to 2015’s Master Ultra Thin Squelette, coming in at 3.6 mm). Brands like Piaget and Bulgari might regularly produce thinner watches than Jaeger-LeCoultre, but the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch looks slimmer on the wrist without actually being it.

It is the knife-edge design that accomplishes this.

Jaeger-LeCoultre knew very well what it was doing when its designers worked on this watch. They cleverly kept the crown at 12 o’clock, including the gold ring to which one would typically hook a chain if it were a pocket watch. By even letting that interesting component, which by the way also protects the crown, cut into the strap, they created a quirky detail that makes the watch interesting without it being alienating.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Fortunately, they decided to update the dial’s design, giving it a clean-cut look with blued sword-shaped hands. This strikes just the right tone as the watch looks contemporary yet based on old values, perfectly in line with the style of The Kingsman universe and that of many other modern, discerning gentlemen.

Caliber 849: return of an icon

The Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch also marks the return of Caliber 849. This manually wound movement and its direct predecessor, Caliber 839, was in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s catalog for about four decades. At a height of only 1.85 mm, it became mainly known for powering Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin collection.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 849, which powers the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

The case construction of the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is however quite different as it is 1.65 mm thinner than the 5.9 mm thickness of the movement used in the current Master Ultra Thin line, Caliber 896.

Caliber 849 got a reputation for being precise and sturdy, quite handy given a Kingsman’s very active lifestyle, and something we can unfortunately not say of every ultra-thin movement. It is a pleasure to see it return in the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch – even if the designers kept it from from prying eyes by giving this timepiece a closed case back.

Deep pockets and off-key details

At a price of $29,800, owning the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch requires a bespoke suit with particularly deep pockets. Even given its exceptional construction, link to what is sure to be a popular and entertaining movie and limited production, that is a lot of money.

Engraved case back of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

I am slightly disappointed that the back of the case is engraved with “One of 100.” With a proper limited edition at this price point, I would expect a brand like Jaeger-LeCoultre to go to the trouble of actually numbering each watch individually.

That aside, the rest of the watch is spot on with tons of character. It proves that while Jaeger-LeCoultre might not have the thinnest watch, or movement, this brand does have one of the best looking.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

For more information, please visit www.mrporter.com/en-de/mens/product/kingsman/luxury-watches/dress-watches/limited-edition-master-ultra-thin-kingsman-knife.

Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch
Case: 40 x 4.25 mm, pink gold
Movement: hand-wound Caliber 849, 1.85 x 20.2 mm, 19 jewels, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 35-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: 100 pieces
Price: £26,900/€29,600/$29,800
Remarks: launched in collaboration with Mr. Porter

You may also enjoy:

The Sense And Non-Sense Of Watches In Movies

Top 10 Thinnest Mechanical Wristwatches: 8 Modern Record Holders And Their 2 Historic Rivals

Ultra-Thin Head To Head: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Vs. Piaget Altiplano

New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Master Control Memovox Timer For 2020: Resonant Delights

The Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique

0 replies

Leave a Reply

Want to join the discussion?
Feel free to contribute!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Categories

  • Watch Brands & Horology
    • New for 2025
    • New for 2024
    • New for 2023
    • Affordable Luxury
      • Swatch
      • Ball Watch
      • Louis Erard
      • Gorilla Fastback
      • Ikepod
      • Oris
      • Reservoir
    • Auctions
    • Behind the Lens
    • Boutiques
    • Collectors and Collecting
    • Events, Fairs & Exhibitions
    • Give Me Five!
    • History
    • Quill & Pad
    • Round Table
    • The Naked Watchmaker
    • Thoughts & Opinion
    • Video
    • WatchCharts
    • Wrist Watching
    • A. Lange & Söhne
    • AHCI
    • Akrivia
    • Andersen Genève
    • Alexandre Meerson
    • Andreas Strehler
    • Angelus
    • Antoine Martin
    • Antoine Preziuso
    • Armin Strom
    • Arnold & Son
    • Audemars Piguet
      • Royal Oak Offshore
    • Bélier
    • Bell & Ross
    • Blancpain
    • Bovet
    • Breguet
    • Bremont
    • Breitling
    • Bulgari
    • Carl F. Bucherer
    • Cartier
    • Chanel
    • Chopard
    • Christiaan Van Der Klaauw
    • Christophe Claret
    • Chronoswiss
    • Clocks
    • Corum
    • Cyrus
    • Czapek & Cie
    • De Bethune
    • de Grisogono
    • Derek Pratt
    • Dior
    • Divers' Watches
    • Eberhard
    • Emmanuel Bouchet
    • Fabergé
    • Ferdinand Berthoud
    • Fiona Krüger
    • F.P. Journe
    • Franck Muller
    • Garrick
    • Gérald Genta
    • Girard-Perregaux
    • Glashütte Original
    • GoS
    • Graff
    • Graham
    • Greubel Forsey
    • Grieb & Benzinger
    • Grönefeld
    • H. Moser & Cie
    • Habring2
    • Hajime Asaoka
    • Harry Winston
    • Hautlence
    • Hermès
    • Hublot
    • HYT
    • Independents
    • IWC
    • Jaeger-LeCoultre
    • Jaquet Droz
    • Jean Daniel Nicolas
    • Jean Dunand
    • Kari Voutilainen
    • Kees Engelbarts
    • Kobold
    • Konstantin Chaykin
    • Kudoke
    • Ladies watches
    • Lang & Heyne
    • Laurent Ferrier
    • Linde Werdelin
    • Louis Moinet
    • Louis Vuitton
    • Ludovic Ballouard
    • Manufacture Royale
    • Maurice Lacroix
    • MB&F
    • McGonigle
    • Ming Watches
    • Montblanc
    • Moritz Grossmann
    • Nomos Glashütte
    • Ochs und Junior
    • Officine Panerai
    • Omega
    • Parmigiani
    • Patek Philippe
    • Paul Gerber
    • Philippe Dufour
    • Piaget
    • Pocket watches
    • Rebellion
    • Ressence
    • RGM
    • Richard Mille
    • Roger Dubuis
    • Roger W Smith
    • Roland Iten
    • Rolex
    • Romain Gauthier
    • Romain Jerome
    • Sarpaneva
    • Schwarz-Etienne
    • Seiko
    • Silberstein
    • Singer Reimagined
    • Soviet / Eastern Europe watches
    • Speake-Marin
    • Struthers
    • Tag Heuer
    • Tudor
    • Tutima
    • Ulysse Nardin
    • Urban Jürgensen
    • Urwerk
    • Vacheron Constantin
    • Van Cleef & Arpels
    • Vianney Halter
    • Vintage
    • Wempe Glashütte
    • Zenith
  • Luxury, Experiences, Science & Nature
    • Arts
    • Book reviews
    • Cars
      • Porsche
    • Fashion & Grooming
    • Jewelry
    • Nature
    • Photo Captions
    • Photography
    • Science
    • Shoes
    • Sports
    • Technology
    • Travel
    • Wining, Dining and Cigars
    • Writing instruments
      • Caran d’Ache
      • Grayson Tighe
      • Montblanc
      • Montegrappa
  • General
    • Featured
    • Highlights
© Copyright - Quill & Pad - Enfold Theme by Kriesi
Scroll to top Scroll to top Scroll to top
We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. By clicking “Accept”, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies.
Do not sell my personal information.
Cookie SettingsAccept
Manage consent

Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously.
CookieDurationDescription
cookielawinfo-checkbox-analytics11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-functional11 monthsThe cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-others11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy11 monthsThe cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.
Functional
Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features.
Performance
Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
Analytics
Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.
Advertisement
Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads.
Others
Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet.
SAVE & ACCEPT