by Ian Skellern
Every time I write the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, I have to brace myself for the stream of comments reminding me that I must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. Spoiler alert: I know that I do.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono on the wrist
Lesson learned. I will not describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad I think it well merits that description), but I do think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year, so shoot me for that!
Here’s why.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono in its two variations
Patria history
Patria was founded in Biel in 1892 by Swiss watchmaker Louis Brandt, who also founded Omega. Brandt is also known for making the world’s first minute repeater wristwatch. The Patria brand became known in World War I for its military trench watches, which were issued to British soldiers. By 1917, the Patria 13’’’ military wristwatch was widely used by soldiers due to its visible-in-the-dark radium numerals, steel shrapnel guard, and easy-to-wear 36 mm case. But by the 1940s, Brandt’s company had put its focus on other brands (I’m looking at you, Omega) and the Patria brand faded away.
Then in 2019, Jolyon Lambert, a British industrial designer with a successful watch design and 3D watch rendering company called Blade Render, bought the Patria name with plans to bring the brand back to its former glory.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono with white dial
Lambert likes chronographs and he likes beautiful movements: the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono is the first step in his process of relaunching Patria.
While the prototype went public in 2019 (see Patria: Historical Name, Vintage Look, New Technology, And FlybackColumn Wheel Chronograph), largely thanks to COVID it’s taken another two years of development to get the production model to the quality Lambert has insisted on.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono on the wrist
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono
Lambert’s goal with Patria is to offer relatively (sorry) affordable haute horlogerie, so one of my first questions to him wasn’t “Why a chronograph?” but “Why a flyback chronograph?” His reply was, “I like drama in a movement.” That’s also why he chose to use Eterna Caliber 39 as a base movement: it not only had a flyback chronograph, he could modify it with a horizontal clutch column wheel to add even more pizzazz.
As befitting a military-style watch, the hands and numerals are big and bold, making them highly legible, while abundant Super-LumiNova ensures that they are just as legible at night.
Automatic column-wheel chronograph movement of the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono
But for me, it’s the movement that makes the Brigadier Flyback Chrono so appealing. It’s very nicely finished for a watch at this price point (below $6,000), and the blued screws and blued column wheel chronograph clutch really pop through the display back.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono
I do have one gripe: personally, I’d prefer the watch without the date at 6 o’clock, but hats off to Patria for going to the trouble (and extra cost) of having the date wheel match the dial. That’s a detail often overlooked on watches costing much more.
Why the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono is good value
While I think that 5,285 Swiss francs (on leather strap) is already good value for a nicely finished, Swiss made, low-volume (92 pieces only), flyback, column wheel chronograph, here’s a few more things that make this watch exceptional value for money.
1. The case is very well made by a supplier to large, prestigious Swiss brands.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono automatic movement
2. The screws, column wheel, and flyback cam are heat-blued; at this price point I might have expected painted screws.
3. The Super-LumiNova colors were specially developed for Patria to offer a more vintage feel.
4. The watches are assembled and regulated at Patria’s atelier in Biel, Switzerland; at this price point I might have expected them to be assembled in Asia.
5. Date wheel matches the dial.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono on Milanese bracelet
6. The Milanese mesh strap option is an interesting twist for something a bit different.
7. The high-quality presentation case is burl walnut, lacquered in Patria burgundy, and velvet lined.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono with black dial
The Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono is a limited edition of just 92 pieces in total, there will be no more variations on the theme. In my opinion, it offers exceptional value for the price. So if you are interested run, don’t walk, as I suspect they will sell out relatively quickly.
I’m looking forward to what Patria does next. Watch this space.
For more information, please visit patriawatch.co/timepieces.
Quick Facts Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono
Case: 42 x 15.6 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber PA-16 (Eterna Caliber 3916), 60-hour power reserve, column wheel clutch, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; date, flyback chronograph
Limitation: 92 pieces
Price: 5,285 Swiss francs (leather strap), 5,640 Swiss francs (mesh bracelet)
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What a great watch. Love the bicompax setup, and the vintage vibe. But that date at 6… Whyyyyy???
“at this price point I might have expected them to be assembled in Asia.”
Really.
REALLY?
Astonishing.
It’s a lot of watch for the money, Tam, it’s difficult to see that there is much profit margin there (in fact, I know that there isn’t) for a low-volume Swiss watch.
Regards, Ian
And you actually think it is unusual for a watch at this price to be assembled in Switzerland?
Not at all, Tam, there are many thousands watches at this price point sourced and assembled in Switzerland. But I haven’t seen many (if any) automatic flyback chronographs of this quality at this price point, even from high-volume brands like Breitling. I’ve no doubt you might find one, but I’ll bet the quality doesn’t compare.
Regards, Ian
It’s worth mentioning the Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph, Tam, which is also an excellent value Swiss flyback chronograph and it’s even cheaper than the Patria. But while very well made, the Frederique Constant chronograph lacks many of the extra details that the Patria has, not just aesthetically, and it’s not a column wheel chrono. That doesn’t affect quality, but does offer a different (some might say better) user experience.
Regards, Ian
Well firstly, “Phew!” 😁
But your reasoning seems counter-intuitive. An haute horology piece… outsourced to save costs?
Outsourced haute horology is something the industry is fighting against, Tam, the debate about what counts as Swiss Made rages on. It isn’t generally an issue with more expensive watches, but at the lower and mid-levels there is a lot of competition and there’s a big incentive to cut costs anyway you can. That’s why I was surprised about the little details in the Patria like getting a special hue of Super-LumiNova developed to maximize the vintage feel and the column wheel clutch chronograph, which is usually only seen on more expensive watches.
The unknown is what the column wheel complication costs. But a higher volume might bring the price down. But there maybe no more Eterna movements either..
There will only be 92 of these Patria flyback chronos. Their next model will be completely different.
Regards, Ian
I’m certain that you are correct. I just find it both ridiculous and deeply disappointing.
I have to say, the more I learn about “Swiss” horology, the more respect I have for Japanese manufacturing. I am the proud owner of the new Carbon Frogman which was
1) Less than £1,000
And
2) Produced in Japan entirely in-house and assembled by hand on the premium production line.
I lived in Japan for a short while and although the society obviously has problems, the number, variety and quality of products it produces is (or should be) a model for the rest of the world. There is literally no reason to buy anything outsourced if you live there. Anything.
While reading this article I had a perception that you would be talking about really incredible price let’s say around $1200-$1500.
Now I get this is small run production on non ETA movement, which obviously will demand a higher price.
But putting that aside it seems like you are trying to implant this inflated price level as acceptable industry standard.
Realistically you can buy Zenith El Primero Chronomaster or even a Moonwatch for similar price, which I think is a no brainier preferable choice
Both the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster and Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch are excellent choices, Ilay, but neither are flyback chronographs.
Regards, Ian
sorry Bro carbon frogman is completely a different chapter.
Bro?
Sigh….
I like the 60 hour power reserve, my minimum expectation of all brands today.
Don’t like a movement that doesn’t fill up the case back properly.
I guess when you collect for a while you set personal parameters.