by Martin Green
While it is always interesting to see what the rarest of watches do at auctions, scant few can afford such bidding wars. That doesn’t necessarily mean that the only other option is eBay as Fellows highlights with its Luxury Watch Sale. This name is well chosen because the auction includes watches from a few hundred to tens of thousands of pounds, and the 213 lots cover a large spread of prices. Here are six watches that caught my attention.
Ebel 1911 Perpetual Calendar Triple Date Chronograph: Lot 165
Ebel is, in my opinion, currently one of the most underestimated brands. One easily sees that in this 1911 Perpetual Calendar with an estimate of £4,500 – £6,500. The 1911 is the brand’s flagship collection, and this is the most complex version that Ebel made.
Ebel 1911 Perpetual Calendar Triple Date Chronograph
It combines a perpetual calendar with a chronograph in a charismatic pink gold case. The 1911 is nicely proportioned with a 42 mm diameter, and its appearance is sporty chic and surprisingly timeless. What makes this Ebel even more desirable is the movement, a Zenith El Primero caliber upon which the brand added a perpetual calendar module. This Ebel is fitted with the original black alligator strap and pink gold folding clasp, making it a tempting offer for the discerning collector.
For more information, please visit www.fellows.co.uk/3114-lot-165-EBEL-an-18ct-rose-gold-1911-Perpetual-Calendar-Triple-Date-chronograph-wrist-watch-42mm.
A. Lange & Söhne WWII Pilot’s Watch: Lot 183
During World War II, A. Lange & Söhne was among the five brands that made pilot’s watches for the German air force, or Luftwaffe, the others being IWC, Wempe, Stowa, and Laco.
A. Lange & Söhne WWII Pilot’s Watch
Given the current status and collection of A. Lange & Söhne, the brand’s pilot’s watches are fascinating as they divulge a unique part of history. The watch up for auction is a so-called B-Uhr, meaning that the minute markers are prominently placed on the outer ring of the dial with the smaller hours in the middle. At a diameter of 55 mm, it is not exactly a wristwatch, as pilots legendarily wore such watches around their thighs when flying. With an estimate of £4,000 – £6,000, and with a beautiful patina, this A. Lange & Söhne is going to become a prized possession in somebody’s collection.
For more information, please visit www.fellows.co.uk/3114-lot-183-A-LANGE-SOHNE-a-steel-cased-WW2-German-military-issue-pilot-watch-head-55mm.
Cartier Tonneau: Lot 26
Forget the Pasha, Santos, or even the Tank, the Tonneau is Cartier’s most beautiful design. It has a vintage appeal that still looks classy with its clean lines and thin lugs.
Cartier Tonneau
What makes this particular one at Fellows even better is that it is actually vintage. The dial is signed “Paris,” which means that it was sold at the 13, Rue de la Paix boutique in Paris when Cartier was still a family-owned firm with three boutiques (the others were in London and New York). Unfortunately, the watch has a too-small strap, but that’s easily replaced. The good news is that the original folding buckle also comes with the watch, making it the perfect time capsule. Given that, the estimate of £3,500 – £5,500 is rather modest.
For more information, please visit www.fellows.co.uk/3114-lot-26-CARTIER-a-yellow-metal-Tonneau-wrist-watch-26x39mm.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Series Unique Full Calendar: Lot 52
This rectangular Jaeger-LeCoultre is not a Reverso but rather part of a special series of 600 watches marking the 150th anniversary of the brand in 1983.
Jaeger LeCoultre Serie Unique with triple calendar and moon phase
It is a charming complete calendar watch with a date hand and a beautiful moon phase window. Its case is made of yellow gold, giving this Jaeger-LeCoultre that old-school luxury feel. Under the closed case back ticks Caliber 486, which is manually wound, and it boasts a quick-set date.
There is also somewhat of a mystery as this particular watch is numbered 000/600. This might make it a prototype and, therefore, even more desirable. For the estimate of £3,500 – £4,500, it is worth a shot bidding on as the watch itself is most certainly worthy of the price.
For more information, please visit www.fellows.co.uk/3114-lot-52-JAEGER-LECOULTRE-an-18ct-yellow-gold-Serie-Unique-triple-calendar-moonphase-wrist-watch-24mm.
IWC Big Pilot Double Chronograph: Lot 43
The so-called Doppelchronograph is an exciting part of IWC’s history as this complication was developed by Richard Habring and had to be fitted on the famous Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement.
IWC Big Pilot Double Chronograph with black ceramic case
Habring tested the prototypes in his kitchen, immediately giving you inspiration for what to do should you possibly have the winning bid for this Pilot’s Watch Doppelchronograph. What makes this IWC even more interesting is its black ceramic case. The brand was one of the innovators of this material in watchmaking, so it is a fitting tribute to its history. It is not a small watch with a diameter of 44 mm, but the black color theme gives it a stealthy look. The estimate is £3,500 – £4.500.
For more information, please visit www.fellows.co.uk/3114-lot-43-IWC-a-ceramic-Big-Pilot-Double-Chronograph-wrist-watch-44mm.
Longines Chronograph: Lot 175
Longines is one of my favorite brands, and one of the reasons for that is its ridiculously rich history.
Longines chronograph
Just look at this stunning vintage chronograph with beautiful lugs, charming dial, and just the right amount of patina. Even the size is perfect at 37 mm in diameter. The case is in yellow gold, and inside we find a treat as the watch is powered by Caliber 30CH. This manual-wind flyback chronograph movement with column wheel debuted in 1947 and was produced until the 1970s. It is one of the most desirable chronograph movements out there, and this Longines also offers the perfect packaging for it.
A very tempting offer, and I am curious at what price the hammer comes down as the estimate of £3,400 – £4,400 sounds conservative.
The Luxury Watch Sale is already online and ends on Monday, November 28, 2022 at 10:00 am UK time.
For more information, please visit www.fellows.co.uk/the-luxury-watch-sale/2022-11-28
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