Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special!
by Raman Kalra
Raman Kalra is the founder of The Watch Muse blog and has kindly agreed to share some of his articles with us here on Quill & Pad.
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The first association for many on hearing the word “Seiko” is likely to be affordable quartz watches or automatic divers. However, Seiko offers much more, particularly in terms of luxury timepieces. Grand Seiko, which became its own brand under the Seiko Group in 2017, produces some of the most competitive luxury watches on the market, rivaling the best Swiss brands at prices that are still (somewhat) attainable.
It took me some time to fully appreciate this. At first, I saw “Seiko” and wondered why anyone would spend thousands on one when they could buy a Rolex, for example. What helped me most was seeing the watches in person and understanding the hype for myself. Now, my next watch wish is a Grand Seiko. I am a huge fan and even convinced a friend to purchase one earlier this year. I’m not alone in having a change of heart.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA5 (photo courtesy Alex Teuscher)
Google search trends show just how much interest in Grand Seiko has increased since 2017. It has grown faster than Rolex and is in line with Patek Philippe.
Grand Seiko Google monthly search data versus Rolex, Panerai, and Patek Philippe (graph not to scale, just to show trends not relative volume of searches – Rolex is much higher)
When compared to Panerai, it becomes clear that not all brands have seen this level of growth, despite the general increase in the popularity of mechanical watches.
Grand Seiko Google monthly search data versus Rolex, Panerai, and Patek Philippe (graph not to scale, just to show trends not relative volume of searches – Rolex is much higher)
I want to touch on what changed for me and why you should start taking Grand Seiko seriously – if you haven’t already.
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Why are Grand Seikos so good?
Finishing
Swiss watches are synonymous with quality. There are certain word associations that are a given; for example, German cars and superb engineering. However, Grand Seiko is breaking this mold. Buying a watch is a luxury, and no matter who you are, you should expect to get an item of quality.
Dial of the Grand Seiko-Snowflake SBGA211
Unfortunately, this is not always the case. You might end up paying a premium for a brand name or a brand association with a sport, which can be expensive. With Grand Seiko, however, you get a watch worth every dollar, pound, or euro, even with recent price increases.
It is hard to convey the quality in pictures, which is why I was not convinced until I saw a Grand Seiko in person. Holding and experiencing the watch allows you to fully realize the extent of the finishing put into each one.
Grand Seiko Zaratsu polished case
One of the standout reasons for this is Zaratsu polishing. This method of polishing was first seen on the 1964 Self-Dater watch and is named after the original machines used on that model. It is a technique where the metal is pressed against emery cloth or paper abrasive on a rotating disk. This requires skill, and Grand Seiko takes pride in the results of this meticulous task.
The results are flat surfaces that are distortion-free and have a perfect reflection, as well as sharp edges. This is one large aspect of what makes a Grand Seiko a Grand Seiko, but it is also the hardest to appreciate in pictures. Seeing this for the first time is mesmerizing. The indices and polished areas on the case perfectly reflect light, changing intensity depending on your surroundings.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Skyflake
The high level of finishing continues with other aspects like the dial, movement accuracy, and finishing. This is truly a product that feels deeply thought about and considered, as though lots of attention and energy has been put into each and every watch. What this boils down to is the impression that Grand Seiko wants to earn your money.
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Grand Seiko takes pride in what they sell, which gives you, as the consumer, the feeling that they respect the price you will pay to own one. In a world where money alone is no longer good enough to purchase some watches on offer with other brands – not naming names – it is nice to feel as though your custom is appreciated. At least to me.
They have pride in what they sell, and that gives the consumer the feeling that the brand appreciates the price you will be paying to own one. In a world now where your money alone is no longer good enough to purchase some products on offer with other brands – not naming names – it is nice to feel as though your custom is respected. At least to me.
Dials
The dials of Grand Seiko are what sets them apart – even more so than the overall finishing.
Grand Seiko Taisetsu Special Edition Reference SBGA415
You don’t see many brands (dare I say any?) taking the level of time and care into their watch dials like Grand Seiko. Each Grand Seiko dial reflects a different aspect of Japanese nature, fitting with their inspiration – the nature of time.
Their dials take a canvas approach allowing them to create an abstract, artistic impression of what the specific model is representing.
Grand Seiko White Birch
For example, for inspiration the ‘White Birch’ uses the Shirakaba white birch forests in the regions of northern Japan near the Shizukuishi and Shinshu studios of Grand Seiko.
Grand Seiko Nature of Time collection
Another example is the Nature of Time Japan Seasons special edition collection, featuring four references with each attempting to capture the essence of Japan in those moments – the Spring model is a light pink reflecting the cherry blossom, the Summer a deep green imitating the green of fields and grass, the Autumn a dark blue celebrating the moonlight around the autumnal equinox and finally, Winter in an off-white for the deep snow.
Ok, this might all sound long-winded, but ignoring the associations you are still left with a beautiful, textured dial with colors that are interestingly different. This creates something visually pleasing with depth, allowing the watch to change in different light conditions, especially as the texture adds an extra dynamic – and don’t forget the Zaratsu polished indices on top of this!
You are not choosing just a dial color when you purchase a Grand Seiko. You are deciding on texture, a timestamp in Japanese nature and genuinely something close to art. Yes, there are varying degrees to this across their lineup – you will see some models without texture in case that is not what you are after or just classic black and white models. But, this all just gives us a lot more to choose from and a lot of opportunities to find the model that speaks to you.
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Innovation
Grand Seiko does not just make beautiful-looking watches; there is also a lot to say about the movements driving them. They are all in-house and range from their 9F quartz, 9R Spring Drive to the 9S mechanical. Given the amount of engineering that goes into each movement there is a lot to unpack here, but essentially there is something for everyone and it allows for broad pricing allowing as many people buy into the brand as possible.
Grand Seiko movements (L-R): 9f Quartz, 9R Spring Drive, and 9S Mechanical
Each one of these movements has something special about them. The 9F quartz is more than just regular quartz. To start, Grand Seiko grows and ages its own quartz, selecting only the best for the final product. The movement features a “Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism” (their own words) that means the seconds hand lands perfectly on the indices, adding to the precision, as well as an instant date change mechanism.
Another underappreciated aspect is that it generates enough torque so that Grand Seiko can use the same hands as their mechanical models, as opposed to thinner, lighter hands found on other quartz watches. It is an extremely over-engineered quartz movement – again Grand Seiko looking to earn your business.
The 9R Spring Drive has enough to talk about for a whole post in itself. The concept and engineering that went into designing this movement are nothing short of extraordinary. It is unique to Grand Seiko, partly because no other brand has managed to achieve what they have done. The Spring Drive combines the best of quartz and mechanical into one. It generates energy like every other mechanical watch, but uses a quartz crystal to regulate the timing, creating a high level of precision.
What it also does is give the seconds hand a continuous sweep. No, not like other automatic watches, but a true continuous movement. It is quite something to see, and even if you don’t like the way the watches look, I would highly recommend going to see one just to see the Spring Drive in action. If you want to buy into their nature marketing, then the Spring Drive allows you to see the constant flow of time.
Automatic Spring Drive Caliber 9R86 powering the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT
You can view the 9R in two ways. Either, it has quartz and therefore, is not a true mechanical movement, or, it is an engineering achievement and my watch is more accurate and unique for it. I am in the latter camp, and if I am ever in a position to purchase a Grand Seiko, it would be a Spring Drive for this reason.
With how much effort is put into their 9F and 9R movements, it should be no surprise that their mechanical 9S movement has received the same attention. As with the other two, there is too much depth to go into for this post, but the 9S can achieve 36,000 vibrations per hour (the Omega Co-Axial 8900 is 25,200 vibrations per hour for reference) and has up to 80 hours of power reserve depending on the exact model. Further, this is done with an accuracy of +4/-2 seconds per day.
That is incredible. To have a watch that uses more energy to power this high beat rate, but last as long, if not longer, then the competition should explain it all.
One large factor as to why they can achieve this is the use of MEMS technology (Micro Electro Mechanical Systems). This method uses technology initially developed for semiconductor manufacturing, and it fundamentally allows Grand Seiko to create some components perfectly and at a reduced weight. The escape wheel is 5% lighter, for example, reducing the energy required in driving it.
With a brief touch on each movement, you can see that the care that goes into each watch is amazing. You know that in buying one, from what you see to what you don’t, you have bought something of exceptional quality.
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Availability
The final point is availability. A lot of watches are in so much demand, that getting one at RRP is a challenge, to say the least. This might change in the future, but as of now, it is an unfortunate reality. Despite having some popular models such as the Snowflake or White Birch, Grand Seiko’s are generally available. There could be a limited edition that might be harder to get, or maybe a hyped version that upon release is in short supply, but I have never had an issue walking into an AD and trying on multiple models. I am coming to appreciate this factor a lot more recently.
Then, when you do decide to go into a boutique, the staff have always been extremely helpful and passionate about the watches. The previous time I went in, I openly mentioned I was not purchasing but the sales person helping me brought out every model I was interested in and more. They were extremely knowledgeable about the different variations, and if anything their passion matched mine and it left me with an extremely positive impression.
Where Grand Seiko needs to do more
Despite my love for their watches, there is still more that Grand Seiko needs to focus on to continue on its upward trend. As always, these are all just my impressions. Firstly, they release many new watches per year, with many editions limited to certain numbers and regions. It all gets confusing. The Snowflake and White Birch are the most popular and well-known because they are the brands’ identity products. They are the staples that remain constant, and to some degree, they could narrow down their wider offering to help focus and build a stronger brand image.
Secondly, the bracelet needs some work. It is rather chunky, there is no taper to it which makes it feel less refined, and there is no micro-adjustment that you are seeing on competitor watches (even the new Tudor Ranger now has this). Grand Seiko has nailed everything else, so now it is time for them to improve their bracelets.
Grand Seiko SBGW285
Finally, for me, it is Grand Seiko’s marketing. I love the idea of nature inspiring what they do, but some of the inspirations feel a little too farfetched. Further to this, they then produce imagery in front of their inspiration and some studio images of the watch. It would be nice to see some more ‘in the wild’ photos and videos to just bring the story alive.
Conclusion
I love Grand Seiko. I am so happy that I have had the chance to see them in person as this opened my eyes. From their movement innovation to the Zaratsu polishing and dial detail, everything feels extremely well made. Grand Seiko goes to extreme lengths to earn your money and provide you with a product of exceptional quality.
There is a sense of occasion with each watch – it feels special. Maybe this is helped by the fact you don’t see too many in public, or maybe it is because to appreciate what you are looking at, you need to understand the watch beyond just the brand name on the front. There is a saying – you buy a Rolex to impress others and a Grand Seiko to impress yourself.
Maybe buying a Rolex to impress others I can disagree with, but I couldn’t agree more about buying a Grand Seiko for yourself.
Now I just need to decide which I want to aim for, and start saving!
For more information, please visit www.grand-seiko.com/
You can read more articles by Raman Kalra at www.thewatchmuse.com.
You might also enjoy:
Grand Seiko Blue Snowflake Reference SBGA407: On The Wrist
Grand Seiko’s Urushi Dials Give The Elegance Collection A Competitive Edge (And Eye Candy)
The Case for Quartz Luxury Watches: Featuring F.P. Journe, Grand Seiko and Accutron
Why I Bought It (Despite The Strap And Buckle): Grand Seiko Blue Snowflake Reference SBGA407
Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons
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I own three GSs – one with a Spring Drive and two with a 9S movement. They are amazing watches!! And extremely light. Can’t recommend them enough.
Wow this brand has been marketed to death ever since they double the cost of their watches to pay for the promotions.
So if you buy one at retail just know something like 50% of the cost appears to be going to market to the next buyer, and so on till …forever.
Sucker born every second ( due to huge population) , even that has crazy inflation! 🤦
How is this any different than let’s say Rolex?
Do you think all those F1, tennis, golf etc. sponsoring is for free?
Hi Ray – yes, their marketing side has really picked up in the past few years. It has coincided with the price increases. It feels as though their pricing is moving upwards to reflect the quality of the products but also create a better sense of separation vs. Seiko. Do I think they’re going up too fast? Maybe. But ultimately, more people are buying into the brand and that is a good thing.
Still def. a great value considering the quality of the product. Take a loupe to a Rolex and then look at a Grand Seiko . . . I dare you to say that a Grand Seiko is inferior. Rolex has history and marketing and kind of shitty but effective sales tactics . . . all of this helps create need for people who want luxury and brand nam. But as a product? GS blows them out of the water.
Why cant grand seiko make a 38ml dive watch or GMT or green bezel and out class Rolex as you have to pay double the price and never get one from the ad as gota spend thousands in the shop
Agree with you Carl! Although Seiko did just release the 38mm Seiko 5 SKX so that’s something…
I still think the opportunity for GS going forward is the sports watch category. I find so far they haven’t got this as sorted as their dress watches. Fingers crossed soon!
The problem is the diameter of their mechanical movements, especially Spring Drive. Their 9F quartz is the only one small enough for a 39mm GMT or diver.
I think there is something wrong with your data plots. I checked google trends and get nothing like this.
What you will notice is that each line peaks at 100 at some point over the timeframe. Clearly these are percentages. Most likely, the metric plotted is the percentage of each month’s number of searches to the maximum number of searches in any single month over the timeframe.
It’s a very strange metric to pick, and I’m not entirely sure what it is that the writer is trying to show.
Please. Everyone. If you are going to plot a graph, tell us what is represented on both axes.
Hi Gerald – not trying to overcomplicate things here! Just wanted to use Google search trends to try and highlight general consumer interests. As mentioned in the article, it is to try and demonstrate the increase in interest of Grand Seiko in a tangible way rather than just anecdotally noticing more content around GS.
If you go to the Google search trends website it explains the metric. The numbers represent search interest relative to the highest point on the chart for a region/time. 100 is peak popularity, 50 is half as popular for example.
Thanks!
Ok so yes, I was correct in my assumption as to what the metric was.
But your readers shouldn’t have to go to the Google search trends website to understand the data that you are presenting.
I’m not sure what you are seeking to represent with the second graph, but it is not a valid dataset due to the Panerai maximum month being outside the timeframe the graph represents. If you want to present this comparison over a different timeframe, then you need to set the metric so that it calculates off the maximum month *within that timeframe*, you can’t just chop out a section of the original graph.
But even then, it’s the wrong metric. Nobody thinks of growth as “10 years ago we were doing 25% of what we did six months ago when we had our best ever month.”
Whilst – for obvious reasons – it is clear that searches for Grand Seiko have increased substantially since 2017, what your graph shows actually isn’t that directly. It shows that searches at the beginning of 2017 were half what they were in the month with the maximum number of searches since then. Are readers supposed to take the reciprocal of that in order to work out what the actual growth has been? And for all the other brands as well, in order to actually find the correct answer to what you are stating you are presenting?
If you want to best show how the popularity of searches for each brand has has changed relative to one another since 2017, then why not simply rebase everything to 2017 figures and plot from there?
Additionally, the data presented does not allow any direct comparison of the relative popularity of searches for the brands concerned, only how the popularity of each individual brand has changed relative to its own maximum popularity over time. I respect that you were not looking to show this, but it’s already confused one of your readers to the extent that they felt compelled to check the data themselves and believe there was an error in your data as a result. Context helps.
The reason for the significant increase in interest in Grand Seiko is of course because of the huge international push made by the brand since 2017. It’s surprising that you don’t mention this in the article.
How much the price
S$
Tks
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I own two GS pieces. Owning a Grand Seiko reprograms, or should I say DEprograms you. Suddenly the big Swiss brands don’t seem like Horological Gods anymore. You see macro shots of “iconic” pieces and think,
“Hhmm. Not too crisp. Is that actually clean? Is that lume-fill 100%?”
Of course there ARE sublime watches available that are undoubtedly beyond GS. But they are MUCH more expensive.
But more than that. The feeling of trust I have for the men and women who make GS watches is worth far more than a lifetime of advertising.
I had to write and agree with you, I got my first GS not too long ago, the sbga413 shunbun, and it wows me every time I check the time, I have owned many watches, Rolexs etc, and the finishing and craftmanship on the GS is just on a different level, I also have been deprogrammed, when I pick up anything else to inspect around the same money, im looking at the details and saying wow its no GS, Rolex included..
I love the feedback you are both giving. Like I said at the bottom of the article, a GS is next on the wish list for me. Seeing them at a boutique or handling them for a short time is one thing, but knowing owners are happy more long-term is another. Just need to decide on which now!
Raman,
I have a pair of GS watches, The Skyflake and a Hi Beat GMT SBGJ 011. They are lovely. I also have Rolex, Omega, JLC etc. A nice rotation. I feel fortunate to have had the ability to amass a small collection and I admire all the brands I own for their approach to watchmaking. Buy what you enjoy and when taking advice from other always remember everyone has confirmation bias.
You will get one when the time is right Raman.
I waited (or wasted) ten years buying other watches. I suppose I wasn’t ready. And yeah the lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet did put me off.
I have a classic champagne-dialled SD on a black crocodile strap and the sporty SBGX341 on a Hirsch rubber/ leather strap.
Great combo.
My next goal is a Credor. 🤞
Second watch image fro the top is incorrect. That is the crown (and case) of the Skyflake not the snowflake…
Thank you, that image has now been replaced.
Regards, Ian
Very informative post I must say.