Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black: Minimalistic with a Lot of Details and all for a (relatively) Affordable Price
by Martin Green
We are looking into getting new screens for our windows in our home. We found a supplier we like and visited their showroom last week. One thing that we knew for certain is that we wanted them to be gray, but we were not prepared for the 100+ options of shades of gray.
Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black on the wrist
I was test-driving the latest Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date at the same time, and that watch comes with a dial in what Nomos calls ‘new black.’ I immediately wondered if there is then also such a thing as ‘old black,’ and what that might look like.
Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black
Nomos have more interesting names for their black dials, as next to ordinary black, they also have ‘velvet black’ and ‘marine black.’ While I am now nagging about how they call a color, it isn’t important and has no influence whatsoever on the qualities of this timepiece. And those are plenty.
Highly recommended by a watch journalist
As a watch journalist, I frequently get asked by people who are just getting into watches what they should buy. I always find this a difficult question, as I want to encourage them to try things and find their own ‘voice’ in collecting. However, I often do give a few suggestions on which brands to check out, based on their budget and preferences.
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Nomos is quite frequently one of the suggested brands and for good reason. Their no-nonsense designs are not as minimalistic as some might think, as they are packed with interesting details. The cases are well-designed and well-built. This not only results in a high degree of wearing comfort, but together with the dial, it also means that a Nomos has a timeless quality that doesn’t age.
Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black
The movements are manufactured by Nomos in Germany and they are strong performers. And best of all, their watches are priced very competitively price. Perhaps the best thing about Nomos is that they don’t divert from this course, as the new Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date (in ‘new black’) highlights.
A sprinkle of gold
One of the most incredible qualities of Nomos is that they know how to make a small detail have large impact. In this, they also like to play with color, and with this new Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date, it is rather subtle.
Dial of the Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black – nice to see the date wheel color and numerals matching the dial and hands
They simply made the hands and numerals on the date disc in gold. This does surprisingly a lot with the watch. In a practical sense, it increases legibility as they kept the hour markers in stainless steel.
This contrast makes it even easier for your eyes to tell time.
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The gold also gives the watch a luxurious touch, especially when combined with the black dial. The gold-printed date shows that Nomos doesn’t cut any corners. They could have gotten away with white printing on a black date disc, but then the Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date wouldn’t be as sophisticated as it is now.
Yes, even something as small as this detail can elevate a watch to a higher tier of watchmaking, at least in my book.
Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black on the wrist
While the name of this Nomos seems to give a hint about its diameter, the Orion Neomatik is not 41mm, but 40.5mm. Not that you would notice, as the watch is nearly all dial with a slender bezel. This makes it look larger than it actually is, although the black dial tones this effect a bit down.
Nomos kept the height of the watch in check, measuring just below 10mm, at 9.4mm. Thanks to a clever case design it looks even slimmer. While the crown may look quite modest, it offers a lot of grip, which makes winding and setting this Nomos a breeze.
Long lugs
Like all the other watches in this collection has also the Orion Neomatik has relatively long lugs. I never find that very attractive when I hold the watch in my hand, but once it is on the wrist, it looks fine.
Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black on the wrist
The only thing that bugs me is that, on my modest-sized wrist, the strap is pulled down at the top, so the tip of the lugs extend into the air. A marginally thicker strap would solve this issue for my wrist. It is also a visual thing, as the wearing comfort of the Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date is superb.
The strap is a perfect match with the rest of the watch, and also a bit of a staple at Nomos. While the strap itself is made in Germany, the leather comes from the Horween leather company in Chicago. With over a century of experience, they have made tanning cordovan leather into an art form. Nomos puts this fine material to good use, creating a supple (which is not always a given with cordovan leather) strap.
Strap and buckle of the Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black
Extra credit goes to the buckles, which not only look good, but are so well designed that they further aid in superior wearing comfort.
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Fierce competition
Nomos is a brand that you also buy for its superb movements. They are quite modest about them, and while the competition in this field is fierce in the town of Glashütte, they can easily stand their ground. Nomos movements are pleasantly slender, yet never at the expense of their dependability.
Caliber DUW 6101 that powers the Orion Neomatic 41 Date is a mere 3.6mm in height and 35.2mm (or 15 1/2 lines for the purists) in diameter. This means that it fills the case nicely, and Nomos was even kind enough to equip the Orion Neomatic with a sapphire insert in its caseback.
Back of the Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date
This allows us to admire the finely decorated caliber where the red synthetic rubies and blued screws provide dashes of color. They form small oases in the large three-quarter plate that covers most of the movement. With its Glashütte ribbing and ‘Nomos’ perlage the brand shows that it its attention to detail extends to all parts.
Manufacture movement visible through the display back of the Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date
On the oscillating weight, the writing is elevated, giving it a particularly luxurious look.
But it is not only looks in which the DUW 6101 scores. It is fitted with Nomos proprietary escapement, the Nomos swing system, which you can recognize by the blue balance spring. Another notable feature is that you can change the date both backward and forwards.
Nomos Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black
Also, Nomos was able to limit the time around midnight which you shouldn’t manually change the date because the watch is already in the process of switching over to the next day, to a mere 90 minutes. All proof that the Orion Neomatic 41 Date is a sophisticated timepiece, and quite a suave one, especially in this new configuration.
For more information, please visit https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/orion/orion-neomatik-41-date-new-black-366
Quick Facts Nomos Glashütte Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black Ref.366
Case: 40.5 x 9.4 mm, stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal
Movement: automatic in-house Caliber DUW 6101, 42-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, Glashütte three-quarter plate, Swing System escapement
Functions: hours, minutes, small hacking seconds; date, can be changed both forward and backward
Price: $4,200
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