Switzerland’s, and the World’s. only big international watch fair, Watches and Wonders, has closed it’s doors on an exhibition that was bigger than ever with a record 54 exhibiting brands. Plus, there were many brands exhibiting offsite in hotels and their own premises.

There has been a bit of storm-in-a-teacup controversy of brands exhibiting offsite from Watches and Wonders, with Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour going as far as calling those brands ‘pirates’ (which some of them might take as a compliment).

While I agree that journalists who have their transport and accommodation paid for by Watches and Wonders should attend the fair for the days they are subsidized for, what they do after hours and/or if they extend their stay in Geneva at their own expense is their own business.

And there are a lot of journalists and collectors who come to Geneva at their own expense and these have no obligation to Watches and Wonders at all.

While there were many excellent new watches at Watches and Wonders, quite a few of my favorites were exhibiting in offsite in Geneva (and which I visited during my own time and at my own expense).

Here are a few of my highlights from Watches and Wonders week 2024:

Ferdinand Berthoud Caliber FB-RES.FC

I don’t consider myself a watch collector: I’m happy to have the opportunity to be able to handle and appreciate great watches without the overpowering urge to own or possess them. BUT, time-to-time a watch comes along and I can’t stop my brain from whispering incessantly: I WANT IT! I WANT IT?

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE

And the Ferdinand Berthoud Caliber FB-RES.FC, regulated by fusee-and-chain constant force transmission and a one-second remontoire, was an I WANT watch.

If you are wondering why this watch is referred to by its movement rather than by its model name, it’s because it is fully customizable. Each of the 38 fortunate owners (there will only be 38 movements made) can choose the shape of the case (round or octagonal), the case metal (stainless steel, titanium, ceramized titanium, and white, yellow, or pink gold), plus the color of the inner bezel ring, the color of the dial, and finishes (sandblasted or satin-brushed).

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE movement side

There’s a mind-blowing 2 meters (over 6 feet) of hand anglage in the movement!

There are more than 200 possible variations for the 38 pieces and if you are curious, you can see what the options look like on the online configurator.
For more information, please visit www.ferdinandberthoud.ch/en/chronometre-fb-2res-6-2.html

Czapek Promenade Goutte d’Eau

Czapek launched a new collection called Promenade at Watches and Wonders with three models. Two of them had sunburst guilloche dials, but for me the most striking and indeed, most mesmerizing, was the Promenade Goutte d’Eau (drop of water).

Czapek Promenade Goutte d’Eau

The eye-catching blue oven-fired enamel dial is meant to look like a drop of water hitting a still pond, but I feel that I’m looking at a stunning image of the cosmos. Perhaps it’s a Rorschach test?

I was fortunate in having the opportunity to see some of the dials being fired at Donze Cadrans and the dials are green when they come out of the oven and then fade to blue. The three dimensionality effect on the dial is incredible.

Czapek Promenade Goutte d’Eau

The case is perfectly sized at 38 mm, and I highly recommend the Milanese steel bracelet option. This is another watch I’d love to own (so much for not thinking I’m a collector).

For more information, please visit www.czapek.com/shop/promenade-goutte-d-eau-6669

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