Angelus Instrument de Vitesse 60-Second Monopusher Chronograph
by Martin Green
Some brands deserve nothing but the harshest criticism. Their actions terrorize the hearts and minds of us, passionate watch collectors and connoisseurs, in one of the darkest ways possible. You try to get into the minds of the people who made these decisions and ask what reasoning they used to justify what they probably think is right, but you simply can’t find the logic behind it.
For instance, why does Angelus go through extensive trouble to develop the Instrument de Vitesse, only to have it limited to a mere 25 pieces in each of two dial colors?
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
This wouldn’t be so upsetting if they had butchered the watch itself. The Instrument de Vitesse is part of the brand’s ‘La Fabrique’ collection under which it launches new versions of vintage designs. I am never too sure what to think of such activities, as it puts my mind on two tracks.
The first is that watchmaking should be focusing on the future and not the past. When watchmakers in the 1950s/1960s/1970s would have done that, they would have all gone out of business. Now things are different, and many of us, myself included, love the chance to own a watch from past glory days.
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse ivory dial
In the case of Angelus, and also with some other brands that like to make new versions of past watches, I’ll give them a pass because they actually have a very impressive heritage and repeating that is not all they do.
Angelus x Chateau Angelus: Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus for Only Watch 2023
Take, for example, Angelus Flying Tourbillon or a personal favorite, the Chronodate, which have some nods to the past but were crafted for the future.
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Painstakingly perfect (for the few)
The Instrument de Vitesse is not an exact copy of one of the brand’s vintage pieces, but a more a modern interpretation of what could have been.
It is also a bit of a watch for the more experienced watch collector, as for a chronograph, it doesn’t dazzle you with an overload of buttons and subdials. In fact, it’s not even handy to time how long your egg is boiling.
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
That is also what makes this Angelus so perfect to a few of us, although I think that will be substantially more people than the 50 pieces the brand plansto make of this model.
Before I go into the details, let us peel off the layers of perfection of this Angelus like an onion, starting with the case. Made from stainless steel, it is rather straightforward in its design. It also should be as the Instrument de Vitesse is positioned, like its name indicates, as an instrument, so no frivolities are necessary.
The bezel is very thin, so the watch is, in essence, all dial, making it look slightly larger on the wrist. What also helps in this matter are the lugs, which are spaced out about 2mm more than they would have done seventy years ago. It sets the tone and gives the watch a good, basic look.
The best part is that although it is a chronograph, it lacks any additional pushers, as Angelus integrated the monopusher in the crown. This is also the only change the brand made, as the movement is further identical to the one that powers the Chronographe Médical, which Angelus launched in collaboration with Massena LAB.
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A caliber of pedigree
True watch aficionados will see a familiar face when they turn over the Instrument de Vitesse to admire the caliber A5000 through the sapphire insert in the caseback. They are not wrong when they think that the layout of the bridges and placing of the levers have something recognizable, as this movement is indeed the current version of the 045MC.
Back of the Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
This movement generated quite a cult reputation, which is surprising as it hasn’t been used in many watches, and most of them were made in low numbers as well (like the Instrument de Vitesse). Cartier used it in both its Tank Monopoussoir and Tortue Monopoussoir, and De Bethune used it in its glorious Chronograph Monopusher DB01.
The movement was developed by THA Ebauche, the star-studded company that was founded by Denis Flageollet (hence the use of this movement in the De Bethune), François-Paul Journe, and Vianney Halter.
The rights to the movement were later purchased by Jaquet SA, which later became Manufacture La Joux-Perret, which closes the circle as that company happens to be owned by Citizen, just as Angelus.
While I have never thought the layout of this caliber to be particularly attractive, it shows its best side in the Instrument de Vitesse with some very pleasing decorations. The only thing I wished they really updated is the power reserve of 42-hours, which I can not call contemporary.
As is to be expected from a caliber of this caliber (pun intended), it features a vertical clutch and a column wheel. Angelus deleted all the subdials, so no running seconds (unless you keep the chronograph running) and no minute counter, just 60 seconds of pure chronographic bliss.
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Fast forward
Angelus gave the Instrument de Vitesse the perfect name as it immediately explains its intended purpose. It comes with an ambitious tachymeter scale that starts at 500 km/h but quickly scales down to more realistic speeds. This scale occupies the outer ring of the dial, pushing the Arabic numerals more to the center.
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse black dial
Combined with the syringe-style hands is, the dial is both aesthetically perfect and perfectly legible. The numerals are placed on top of the dial and are filled with Super-LumiNova, which makes the watch a treat in low light conditions.
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse lume shot
Angelus offers the watch in classic black or ivory dials, each limited to a ridiculously low 25 pieces. The black dial combines copper-colored numerals and railroad track with red details, which looks fabulous.
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse ivory dial
The ivory dial looks equally well, in its combination of black and blue with a few red accents as well. As these are tool watches, no alligator straps or fancy folding clasps, but just a buckle and calfskin. That’s how it’s done!
While this watch is not entirely free of criticism, what is in this world, it was one of my favorite watches of this year’s Watches & Wonders, and I do hope that Angelus continues its contemporary exploration of its own past!
For more information, please visit https://angelus-watches.com/collections/la-fabrique/
Quick Facts Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
Case: 39 x 9.27 mm, stainless steel, 30m water resistant, box sapphire crystal with AR-coating on both sides
Movement: manually wound Caliber A5000 with one-minute chronograph, monopusher; 42-hour power reserve; 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; monopusher 60-second chronograph
Limitation: 25 pieces with a black dial and 25 pieces with an ivory dial
Price: CHF17,100
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