Taittinger Comtes 2013: a Champagne that Dances
by Ken Gargett
I know that this week might seem like déjà vu all over again, but I promise you it is not. Very recently, we looked at some of the superb champagnes from the Taittinger portfolio – Les Folies de La Marquetterie, Prelude and Vintage 2015 – and prior to that, over the years we have looked at some of the best vintages from their prestige release, Comtes de Champagne, such 2002, 2007, 2008 and 2012, the last of those just over twelve months ago.
Champagne Taittinger Comtes Blanc de Blancs 2012
That covers all of the releases this century except 2004, 2005, and 2006, which were a bit before we began looking at these champagnes, and 2011 (observant readers will find we have looked, in a much smaller way than usual, at Comtes from 1989, 1996, 1998, 2005 and their 2005 Rose, so no hiding that it is one of my very favorite champagnes). 1952 was the very first Comtes.
2011 was a curious one. Very few Houses released a vintage champagne from this vintage, let alone a prestige offering. It was, shall we say, a year unlikely ever to join the ranks of the greats. Or even the average. But it was important for Taittinger, I believe for anniversary purposes, but to be honest, I have never quite ascertained the anniversary of what. Otherwise, the question remains why?
But everyone should be forgiven one hiccup and it is not as though it is a poor wine, simply that it does not quite reach the standards that Comtes now sets.
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If we look back, the 2002 was a star of that superb year; 2007 was a year not widely declared but it produced some stunning Chardonnay and Comtes, being a blanc de blancs and therefore 100% Chardonnay, found it ideally suitable and released a cracker; 2008 was, as readers will know, a vintage I think sits with the all-time greats and the 2008 Comtes is one of the very best from that stellar vintage; and 2012, another brilliant year, saw another sensational wine.
When we looked at that wonderful trio mentioned above, I had no idea that looming just over the horizon was an even more brilliant tasting – not only that trio reprised, but their wonderful NV, Brut Reserve, served out of Methuselah; their Rose NV; and most thrillingly, a pair of Comtes, the 2012 and the 2013.
These were the first 2013 Comtes opened in Australia, but it is a wine that has been released in many other countries for some time – please forgive us our tardiness, but although we are an important and large market for champagne, we are a long way away.
We won’t burden you with repeat reviews of all of these wines (and the history/story of both this wine and the House of Taittinger – all of that is in our earlier pieces), other than to say that the 2012 Comtes is showing as well, if not better than it did a year ago, and presumably will continue to improve further for some time. For me, it is a 99 point champagne, nudging the perfect score.
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So where does 2013 fit into the scheme of things? If you get the chance, open the latest pair next to each other. It is extraordinary how different they are. 2012 is a wine of depth and complexity, of elegance, power and yet finesse. Orange peel notes, stonefruits and so much more.
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Grands Crus Blanc de Blancs 2013
2013 shows the vintage to be another great year for Chardonnay, and so for this style of champagne. Some very highly respected judges have said that this is the best of its style since the legendary 1982s. It is, I believe, the 40th release of Comtes and I have no doubt that it will, in time, be seen as one of the best.
As is usual with this wine, 5% of the juice spends four months in new oak barrels, which just adds an extra aspect of complexity to the wine. Taittinger used five Grand Crus in sourcing the grapes for the 2013 Comtes – Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Oger and Mesnil-sur-Oger.
Taittinger vineyards
2013 saw a cold Winter, which continued into Spring, a very wet Spring. Late flowering, and things were looking a bit dire (the year also had the problem of following immediately on from a stellar year, it is aways easy for such a vintage to fall into the shadow of its predecessor). Glorious sun and warmth in Summer saved the day.
The picking of Chardonnay did not begin until October 1st, very late these days. The maturity of the grapes at the time of harvest was described as very good (white florals and citrus with even a hint of tropical fruits was mentioned).
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Rather than the depth and obvious complexity of the 2012, the latest release is much more expressive and even extroverted (after taking my own notes, I always enjoy looking at those of leading critics to see if I am in line or if I am out of touch – this time, we had some critics agreeing with the extravagance aspect, while other felt it shy and refined.
One can only think perhaps a little bottle variation as the descriptions could hardly have been more different). Finesse, elegance, gossamer-like delicacy, yet all the underlying power it needs. Fresh, full of vibrancy and energy, it is a luminous champagne. The more time one can give it in the glass, the more one will be rewarded, as something new arrives every sniff.
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Grands Crus Blanc de Blancs 2013
A champagne that dances. Citrus and grapefruit pith, florals, brioche, stonefruits, a hint of ginger and mixed spices. A beautifully elegant champagne with immaculate balance and intensity, which lingers long after first impressions. The texture offers a seductive creamy note. Ten, even twenty years ahead, if one wishes.
For me, this was Degas compared to 2012 as Gaugin. 98 nudging 99, which it will surely attain in time.
Taittinger’s Comtes is almost always a compelling champagne. 2013 is just that.
For more information, please visit www.taittinger.com/en/comtes-de-champagne
You might also enjoy:
Taittinger Comtes De Champagne Blanc Des Blancs 2008: James Bond Will Like It
Champagne Taittinger Comtes Blanc de Blancs 2012: Not Just a Great Champagne, it’s a Great Wine!
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