Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver Triple Calendar: Proportionally Perfect
by Martin Green
We are often inclined to judge the work of a watch manufacturer by its most grand piece. Usually, these are also the most complex, featuring complications like perpetual calendars or tourbillons or even combining them.
For Laurent Ferrier, this might be different. While they excel in both a ‘simple’ three-hander as well as a complex tourbillon, it’s the Classic Moon with an annual calendar that might be the brands’ piece de resistance.
A career after a career
Laurent Ferrier was not exactly new to the industry when he started his own brand in 2009. He was already 63 and had enjoyed a lengthy career at Patek Philippe. For the watches under his own name, he had a clear vision. One of sophistication and effortless beauty, watches that would stand out by their technical construction and refined finishing.
The Classic Moon Silver is just that, and its attractiveness starts with the design of the movement, which we already know from the Galet Annual Calendar.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver triple calendar
Here one clearly sees the years of experience that Laurent Ferrier has. He wastes no time on sentimental frivolities creating references to a past his brand never had, but rather infuses the movement with the best that haute horlogerie has to offer.
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Movement
The backdrop to the movement is an engine-turned main plate, where the size of the decoration motif differs, being smaller under the balance wheel but larger near the main spring barrel. This places them in proportion and gives a sense of refinement.
Back of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver triple calendar
Proportion is also present with the gap between the two largest bridges of this caliber, LF126.02. Ferrier could have placed them closer together, but now the opening is just enough that you can positively ID that underneath engine turned decorations are also present.
Laurent Ferrier Caliber LF126.02 powers the Classic Moon Silver triple calendar
The bridges are bold, with the hand-chamfered edges softening their presence. Laurent Ferrier opted to make the movement for the Classic Moon manual wound. While I am a fan of the brands’ micro-rotors, this cleaner look suits the watch and also leaves ample space to incorporate the power reserve indicator.
While some aspects of the movement may hint towards the rich heritage of fine watchmaking as a whole, the generous 80-hour power reserve demonstrates that caliber LF126.02 is a very modern creation.
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Dial side up
While the movement is most certainly tempting to look at, also because Laurent Ferrier resisted the temptation to engrave the gold ring of the caseback anywhere, providing no distractions, the dial is in a league of its own.
This starts, funny enough, with the font selected for the date numerals. They are more casual than one would expect with a watch of this caliber, yet not to the point that it becomes whimsical. This is further underscored with the blue color they are printed in. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the hands are slender yet clearly legible.
Moonphase of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver by day and by night
The day and month windows are slightly recessed behind their windows at twelve o’clock, but it is the moon phase at six o’clock that draws attention. In the middle is the hand for the running seconds mounted, while two moons show its phases on both the Northern and the Southern hemispheres.
The disks tuck underneath the glass middle section to display the correct moon phase. Here, Laurent Ferrier also shows that he has a great sense of humor, as the detailed moons are filled with Super-LumiNova, along with the artistically styled stars. This makes them light up at night, when the rest of the watch remains dark, as no Super-LumiNova is used elsewhere.
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Proportion matters
With a watch like the Classic Moon Silver proportions matter. They can make or break the entire creation and Laurent Ferrier made sure that for this timepiece the proportions are spot on. The case itself is 40mm, cleverly holding the middle ground between being too small and too classic or too oversized and too trendy.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver triple calendar on the wrist
The red gold gives a rich glow that is diluted from becoming overkill by the silver dial and the hand-sewn calfskin strap with Alcantara lining. While one would expect an alligator leather strap, the calfskin gives the Laurent Ferrier a casual touch that suits it very well.
In terms of proportions, the 20mm lug width also does a lot in a visual sense. It makes the case look just a touch smaller than it actually is. Credit also goes to the crown, which not only looks superb but is also well-proportioned and pure bliss to handle.
With a height of 12.90mm is the Classic Moon Silver not overly slim but on point again. It gives the watch substance and a pleasant weight without it being too noticeable as the day passes.
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Comparatively speaking
At CHF 80,000 excluding taxes is the Classic Moon Silver not exactly the bargain of the week, but things this good rarely are. One could easily argue that for that kind of money a perpetual calendar is well within reach from a wide variety of brands, including esteemed names such as IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and even closing in on those made by Patek Philippe, who even sells annual calendars for less than Laurent Ferrier.
In this segment of the market, it is not so much about comparing watches, but more about what you really want. While you still have to have the money to spend, the Classic Moon Silver is so good at getting every detail right that it can easily be seen as the benchmark in the category.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver triple calendar
The Classic Moon Silver is a watch that will not disappoint in any way, but more so impresses those who will see it with something that comes so very close to perfection if it isn’t already there.
Also, with an estimated annual production between 200 and 300 watches, of which only a small percentage will be Classic Moon’s, this Laurent Ferrier might not be a limited edition, but will remain a rarity.
As it is a classic by birth, which the brand rightfully incorporated into the model name, it might also be one of the most enjoyable and lasting purchases you will make.
For more information, please visit https://laurentferrier.ch/collections/classic/products/classic-moon-silver
Quick Facts Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver
Case: 40 x 12.90 mm in red gold
Movement: manual winding Caliber LF126.02, 80-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; annual calendar with weekday, date, month; power reserve indication
Price: CHF 80,000 excluding taxes
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I like Laurent Ferrier. I like triple calendars. I like a moon phase with lume so it glows at night. I like classic looking watches. I like atypical bridge architecture. I like movement finishing by hand. I don’t have the entry fee but even if I did I wouldn’t buy it because although I like it I don’t love it. Maybe holding it, see it being created and discussing the details with Laurent would generate the connection i seem to be missing. I hope I’m the exception and people love it but who knows in the vacuum of a comments section…