I debated writing this installment of the “Watches I’ve Loved” series because it’s better described as deflating restraint and paths not taken. Nobody wants to read about that!

But make no mistake; I was in love with many of the watches that I’m about to share. In each case, various practical considerations carried the day. All of the following watches were consistent with my Jaeger-LeCoultre “mono-brand” collecting philosophy.

Returning to these images brings back memories, and I’d be lying to claim I don’t have any regrets. But such is life, and I’d like to think that some doors never close entirely. There’s always the next time.

If “brand milestones” was a guiding principle of my JLC collection, then buying the 1994 Reverso Répétition Minutes should have been an inevitability. And it almost was!

Tim Mosso wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Minute Repeater Grande Taille

The grande taille-sized Reverso repeater was part of the series of six rose gold Reverso models launched through the 1990s and early 2000s.

The watches were designed to declare JLC’s comeback from near death in the 1980s while also allowing then-current JLC watchmakers to rebuild the skills demanded by complicated constructions. Each of these six Reversos embodied one or more complication, and the minute repeater was the crown jewel of the series.

As a 500-piece edition, the Reverso minute repeater ironically may have been the least limited true minute repeater of its era. But it was a technical hurdle of the highest order. A GT-cased Reverso has a roughly 26mm x 42mm size, but the rotating portion of the case is even smaller.

While most of the marvelous miniaturization was JLC’s, chiming watch specialists Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi were on board in a consulting role.

I’ve owned two grande-taille Reversos, and they fit me beautifully. So, when an example of the repeater surfaced in New York City during my attendance of the 2017 Formula E event, I was compelled to take a closer look. And… I was conflicted.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Minute Repeater Grande Taille on the wrist and (partially) under the cuff

The size and fit were excellent, but the watch confirmed my previous impression that this was a miracle of miniaturization rather than a sonic success.

The chime of the model is merely functional, not beautiful. And then there’s the rose gold, which I cannot bring myself to wear. I’m just not a yellow gold or rose gold kind of guy. In any case, the minute repeater slot in my watch box remained empty.

It almost didn’t. In 2018, I encountered a watch that inverted all of my objections to the chiming Reverso: the Master Minute Repeater.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater in platinum on the wrist

This platinum monster was a 44mm tour-de-force in chiming watch construction. And the black dial “boutique” model was my favorite of the MMR line.

JLC’s unique fusion of the repeater gong to the dial-side sapphire entirely bypassed the sound-deadening effect of a platinum case.

A 15-day power reserve with indicator dial and unique “torque meter” display provided extra complicated muscle. Finish was world-class and the kind of execution JLC unpacks for only a few hundred of its 100,000 watches per year.

I had a chance to own it, too. And that’s where this love story goes off the rails. I traded one problem for another; the huge MMR was weak where the sweet-sized Reverso Répétition was strong. The 44mm MMR case looked comical on my wrist, and I couldn’t find a single angle that looked acceptable.

Then there was the price: $90,000! Even if such a thing could be covered entirely in cash – and I only buy with cash – there was the larger question of life priorities and whether such an extravagance was appropriate for a person of finite means and a modest lifestyle.

In the end, the price and size of the MMR meant this watch was beyond reason for me.

I still adore it, but only in the sense that we appreciate paintings by master artists in museums; most of us don’t aspire to own such things.

That said, I have genuine regret for having missed a genuine 1930s Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso on a period bracelet with co-signing by Favre Leuba.

1930s vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso on period bracelet with co-signing by Favre Leuba

This should have been mine, and I can even envision it remaining with me had it been in the collection when I cleaned house in late 2018. I encountered this mighty machine in December of 2017, and I was struck by how much I loved it.

First, there was the JLC-designed caliber 411 with central seconds. Not only was this part of the first series of LeCoultre-designed Reverso movements (the absolute earliest were by Tavannes), but the running center seconds was an incredibly novel look for any Reverso or even any dress watch of the period.

1930s vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

While most Reversos are two-hand watches with few outward signs of life, a large seconds hand blessed this vintage machine with a rare dynamic edge. Its stepped center dial and applied numerals added visual fire.

It was a tiny thing but compelling. At 23mm by 38mm, this watch was almost identical in size to the modern Reverso “Classique” size, but it packed a punch. The dial patina on an off-white base was pronounced enough to be endearing but not so overbearing as to appear damaged.

Engraved initials on the back of this 1930s vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Favre Leuba’s signature as a retail partner gave this watch a fascinating co-signature on the dial to match the lost-to-history engraved initials on the reverse of the case.

1930s vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso on the wrist

Then there was the aftermarket but period correct bracelet. 1930s Reversos on bracelets are a rarity among rarities, and this example was ideal for the watch.

Art Deco-style strakes or “gadroons” on each link echoed the case strakes of the Reverso, and there was a unique clasp mechanism that provided surprising range of adjustment.

At a price of less than $10,000, there was nothing unattainable or speculative about this watch. 1930s center second Reversos with period bracelets and co-signed dials aren’t exactly flipper territory. I regret missing this opportunity and I wonder where this watch is today.

I also regret not buying a strap. Yes, a strap. When that strap would have been hand-crafted before my eyes by Eduardo and Hector Fagliano, regrets are in order. Jaeger-LeCoultre began its association with Argentine polo boot specialist Casa Fagliano in 2011 by commissioning a special strap for the 2011 Grande Reverso Tribute to 1931 U.S. Edition.

Casa Fagliano atelier in Buenos Aires (photos courtesy Germ+ín-Fagliano)

The strap, crafted of the same shell cordovan horse leather used to make polo gear for royalty, was the single most exclusive piece of the watch, and it caused a sensation.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano

Not long after this release, there was a crush of interest in the Fagliano strap. First, owners of other Reversos demanded Fagliano straps. Soon after, Fagliano shell cordovan straps became a minor obsession by owners of other models and even other brands.

Flippers sold them on eBay. JLC responded by planning a line of Fagliano-inspired straps fabricated for the mass market by JLC’s OEM supplier, Camille Fournet.

The author Tim Mosso (center) with the Fagliano Brothers

But there was one loophole; the Fagliano brothers were on hand at SIHH 2018 with tools and materials to build straps on demand. I introduced myself, expressed appreciation for their work, and Eduardo offered to make me a strap during the show.

Obviously, you don’t say “no” to that, but I was the only WatchBox employee covering the event, and my reporting role left me pinned down just long enough that I was unable to return and accept the offer.

The author Tim Mosso (left) with Henry-John Belmont

It wasn’t a total loss, because I did meet Jaeger-LeCoultre brand legend Henry-John Belmont. What Nicolas Hayek was to the Swiss watch industry and Jean-Claude Biver was to Omega, Henry-John Belmont was to Jaeger-LeCoultre. Like the also JLC-associated Günter Blümlein did at A. Lange & Söhne, Henry-John was forced to start almost from scratch and finished with a crown jewel.

Blümlein helped lead the company out of quartz-era peril and set the stage for JLC’s modern golden age under Jerome Lambert in the 2000s. Meeting Henry-John and his son, Stéphane, was a highlight of my time in the watch industry.

I’d like to think that watch collectors get second chances. Many of the watches I liked but didn’t love enough to buy may cross my path again. Unlike people, watches endure for generations, and collectors often encounter the same watches at later points in their lifelong journeys.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater in platinum on the wrist

Under different circumstances, I could still own a vintage Reverso, a Fagliano strap. Hell, maybe I could even start a weight program and build up some forearms worthy of the Master Minute Repeater.

For more information about the latest model JLC Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, please visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/news/watchmaking/new-reverso-tribute-minute-repeater

* Tim Mosso is the media director and watch specialist at The 1916 Company. You can check out their very comprehensive YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/@the1916company.

You might also enjoy:

Watches I Love by Tim Mosso – Part 1: How I Got Into Watches and My First Watches

Watches I Love by Tim Mosso – Part 2: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Years

Jaeger-LeCoultre: A Collector’s ‘Gateway Drug’ and Ongoing Pleasure

Jaeger-LeCoultre Watches: Why Are They Not More Popular?