What’s fashionable and trendy in watches? The world’s leading watch
exhibition has the answers.

1. Vintage style remains a top trend

This style, rooted in watch designs from earlier eras, has significantly influenced contemporary collections over the past two decades. No other trend, however popular, has managed to divert public attention from vintage-style watches.

Special models and entire collections released by leading brands to commemorate anniversaries have only added momentum to this trend. This year, the most talked-about anniversaries are the centenary of Rolex’s Oyster and the 50th anniversary of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Both brands have naturally dedicated several new models to these milestones.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most popular model, the Nautilus, Patek Philippe is recreating the original design in three limited edition watches. Each features the thin Caliber 240, which is automatically wound by a mini-rotor developed in the 1970s, the same era as the original Nautilus. The mini-rotor, mounted at the same level as the movement’s bridges, enables the remarkably thin movement; the original Patek Philippe Caliber 240 was only 2.40 mm thick (hence its name).

Thanks to this movement, the Nautilus watches are exceptionally thin and elegant. For example, the Nautilus Ref. 5810/1G-001, one of the anniversary models, is only 6.9 mm thick, even thinner than the original Nautilus Ref. 3700 “Jumbo,” which was 7.6 mm thick.

Rolex has introduced several new Oyster Perpetual models to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Oyster waterproof watch concept. These include the two-tone steel and yellow gold Oyster Perpetual 41, which boldly displays “100 years” instead of “Swiss made,” though in tiny letters; the Oyster Perpetual 36, featuring a “Jubilee” dial with a repeated “Rolex” inscription and retaining “Swiss made”; and the Oyster Perpetual 34 and Oyster Perpetual 28, whose dials have three applied indexes made of green jasper – a first for the brand – with the dial also marked “Swiss made.”

The centenary of Tudor, a subsidiary of Rolex, inspired the release of the Monarch watch, which features a vintage ‘California’ dial with an unusual combination of indexes, Arabic numerals, and Roman numerals – a design developed and patented by Rolex in the 1940s. Thus, the Tudor collection once again offers a design not found on modern Rolex watches, providing a compelling reason to choose a Tudor over a Rolex.

Seiko’s sub-brand Credor continues to release intriguing vintage models, now offering new titanium versions of the legendary Locomotive watch. Designed for Seiko in 1979 by renowned Gérald Genta, the watch was relaunched in 2024 with a sunburst dial with radial engraved lines, staying true to Genta’s original vision. The new model is available in two versions: one with a dark blue dial and one with a dark green dial, each adorned with a hexagonal pattern reminiscent of champlevé.

2. New chronograph mechanics.

The basic design principles of the mechanical chronograph were established in the 1860s. TAG Heuer’s technical team, in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, set out to transform the technical design of this traditional complication using modern technology. For the new TH80-00 caliber of the TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph, complex elastic components were developed to replace the traditional chronograph start, stop, and reset mechanisms that use levers and flat springs. The new TAG Heuer movement eliminates energy loss from friction and significantly reduces wear, promising greater ease of use, reliability, and durability. This development is the most notable technical innovation showcased at the exhibition.

It is worth noting that TAG Heuer has been transparent about its collaboration with Vaucher engineers, who also contributed to the development of another unusual chronograph presented at this W&W by Parmigiani Fleurier, a longtime Vaucher partner and part of the same watchmaking group. The Chronographe Mystérieux by Parmigiani Fleurier offers a fresh interpretation of the traditional mechanical chronograph.

It is essentially a new chronograph concept with an extremely simple appearance. While it normally appears as a three-hand watch, once the chronograph is activated, the hour and minute hands split in two, with the secondary hands, along with the central seconds hand,
serving as the chronograph counters.

A surprising development was the arrival of a new version of the Rolex Yacht-Master II regatta chronograph, which the brand has significantly redesigned compared to the original 2007 model. Notable external changes include a return to a classic diving bezel design (though bidirectional) with a 60-minute scale, along with a significant but visually undetectable transformation of the movement – the new version is designated caliber 4162. The regatta timer function has been extensively modified: mechanical programming of the regatta timer’s minute counter is now performed by the lower chronograph pusher, rather than the bezel as in the 2007 model. Interestingly, the chronograph seconds hand and minute counter hand now rotate counterclockwise, which allowed Rolex to eliminate the uncommon scales with inverted numeral sequences that characterized the first-generation Yacht-Master II.

3. Openworked dials.

Another notable trend is the rise of complex mechanical watches with openworked dials, which allow brands to highlight the movement, the craftsmanship of their watchmakers, and the intricate structure and complexity of the watch. This design approach is characteristic of Hublot, which has used it to great effect in its new Big Bang Reloaded automatic chronograph collection. The collection reveals the Hub 1280 Unico caliber from the dial side, showcasing key chronograph mechanism components such as the column wheel that controls the chronograph functions and the filigreed intermediate wheel that transmits power to the chronograph central seconds counter. The Big Bang Reloaded collection caters to virtually every taste, with watches crafted from titanium, high-tech ceramic in black, dark blue, or dark green, and the brand’s signature scratch-resistant 18-karat Magic Gold.

The openworked dial design was also actively used by Roger Dubuis. This year, the brand launched the new Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar, a reedition of the design introduced in the brand’s early years by Carlos Dias, who was then CEO and design director. This trend also appears in the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune watch and the Ulysse Nardin Super Freak, which is now arguably the most complicated watch displaying only hours and minutes, according to the brand. This model was created to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Freak collection, the
breakthrough technical development of Ludwig Oechslin, who was responsible for many of the brand’s important innovations for a long time – hence his somewhat frightening, gigantic mask was displayed at the brand’s booth. This year, Zenith introduced an openworked dial design to its Chronomaster automatic chronograph collection, based on the El Primero caliber. The new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton features a dial made from transparent sapphire crystal with a gradient tint, allowing a view of the notable high-frequency chronograph movement with a central seconds hand that completes a rotation in 10 seconds (whereas in most watches this occurs in one minute) and measures time intervals in tenths of a second.

4. Titanium is becoming an alternative to stainless steel.

Stainless steel remains the primary material for daily wear and sport-style watches, but 2026 saw several important launches as brands transitioned to titanium for their iconic models. This lightweight, durable, comfortable, and high-tech metal is especially striking. Its appeal is particularly evident in watches with integrated bracelet designs, where the bracelet links visually extend the case. Notable new releases include the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
Cardinal Points with a time zone display; the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41, which weighs approximately 120 grams and is currently the brand’s lightest perpetual calendar on a bracelet; and three new models from Czapek Genève’s Antarctique collection, including the automatic Antarctique Tourbillon Titanium Cosmic Blue. The list would not be complete without mentioning Bulgari’s new titanium models: the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater 37mm and the Octo Finissimo Automatic 37mm.

TAG Heuer, a renowned master of sports watches, also chose lightweight titanium for its new Monaco Chronograph TH20-11 automatic vintage-style sports chronograph, which has been substantially redesigned while preserving the appearance and spirit of the original 1969 design.
One of the most striking innovations in titanium was introduced by Panerai, which used an unusual version of this metal – created by forging two grades of titanium using Damascus steel techniques – in the case of the Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629 watch. Damascus titanium features a distinctive, irregular, banded wave-like structure unique to each watch.

5. Metallic-colored dials in delicate shades.

Metallic-colored dials, often featuring a sunburst finish, are a popular design element. This year, among the new releases, models with dials in subtle shades stand out. For example, Chopard offers the Alpine Eagle 41 and Alpine Eagle 36 with distinctive silvery-blue or light olive dials. Patek Philippe presents a light gray dial on its new Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar, while the Ref. 5396R Annual Calendar Moonphase features a sand-beige metallic-colored dial. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection includes a range of dial colors, from cool gray-blue to deep blue and chocolate brown.

Parmigiani Fleurier developed a unique dial finishing technique for its new Toric watches, featuring shimmering, hand-chased reliefs. This technique is especially striking on models with light-colored dials, such as the Toric Petite Seconde, which features a light blue dial poetically named “Morning Blue.”

6. Decorative hardstone dials.

This is already a popular trend, although watches with decorative hardstone dials remain rare due to their high price and are primarily intended for collectors. This matches the status of Zenith’s G.F.J. models, which are based on the precision manual-winding caliber 135 developed by the brand in 1949. Two of this year’s new releases feature these rare dials: the yellow gold G.F.J. features a green jasper dial, while the tantalum version features a deep black onyx dial.

Piaget, which has specialized in watches with decorative stone dials since the 1960s, introduced the sporty Polo 79 model this year, featuring a dial finished with parallel stripes of sodalite, a striking dark blue mineral with contrasting light veins.

7. Watches are getting smaller

This trend is relatively recent. Many brands, which shifted to larger 40–43 mm and even bigger sizes for men’s collections in the early 2000s, have increasingly adjusted their strategies in recent years, offering basic men’s models with cases ranging from 36 to 39 mm. In 2026, Bulgari took one of the most notable steps in this direction by introducing the new, slim, elegant Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 mm models. However, these new models are not simply scaled-down reissues of previous 40 mm versions. A new movement with a mini-rotor automatic winding system was developed specifically for the Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 mm. It has been significantly modernized, increasing the power reserve from 60 to 72 hours despite the reduced size. Bulgari offers the Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 mm on bracelets in titanium and solid gold.

The trend toward smaller sizes has also influenced complicated watches. For example, Bulgari has introduced a 37mm version of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. Alongside the original 40mm model, this is currently the thinnest minute repeater watch, measuring 6.85mm thick and featuring a chime that marks the hours, quarters, and minutes. Following this trend, A. Lange & Söhne introduced a 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendar with the newly developed caliber L207.1 and a full-size central rotor; the previous self-winding Saxonia Annual Calendar featured the L085.1 caliber with a three-quarter-sized rotor. The new watch is already the third model in Lange’s collection with this complication, which requires manual adjustment only once a year, at the transition from February to March.

8. Focus on bracelets and clasps.

These components are continually being improved, and 2026 saw several notable developments. Zenith introduced a new folding clasp design called Zenclasp, which I found amusing because it resembles a cosplay of a crowned brand. It features a spring-loaded bar on the outside; when lifted, the bar unlocks the sliding mechanism of the clasp, allowing the bracelet to be adjusted up to 10 mm in 2.5 mm increments. This makes it very convenient to adjust without removing the watch from the wrist. Currently, this clasp is available only on the new steel Chronomaster Sport Skeleton models.

This year, Cartier revitalized the Santos Dumont line, one of its signature and oldest wristwatch designs, first introduced in 1904. The new slim models in this collection, based on a customized Piaget 430 caliber, feature a tropical-style bracelet that is both attractive and clearly comfortable in hot climates. The bracelet consists of 15 rows of small links, creating a flexible yet durable metal chainmail feel. While the brand currently offers these bracelets on gold and platinum watches, I would like to see them offered on stainless steel Santos watches as well.

An integrated bracelet design has finally been introduced in the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection. For the new Master Control Chronometre series, the brand developed a special bracelet with three rows of links in a contrasting finish, featuring straight brushed flat surfaces and polished accent pieces shaped like elongated triangular prisms. This launch is especially appropriate, as the brand’s movements were behind the introduction of two signature luxury sports watch designs fifty years ago, in the 1970s: the Royal Oak and the Nautilus.

Images courtesy of the PR services of the respective brands.

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