After showing high complications such as minute repeaters and tourbillons at the SIHH for the past decade, 2019 saw the release of Cartier’s oldest men’s model in a surprisingly new and simple version that became the talk of the trade show. It is also quartz-powered. George Cramer explains why.
About George Cramer
While most people know me for my articles about Cartier, I also have a great affection for the independents. These small brands have to think out of the box to get noticed and survive, more often than not, this leads to very exciting and innovative watches.
This can probably also be traced back to my education in design and former profession, since I find the shape and look of a watch very important, while I am at the same time a stickler for details, which often have such a major impact of the watch as a whole, and can make or break the overall impression.
When not writing about Cartier or the Independents, I like to travel with my camera, around the globe while capturing the places, faces and of course watches that come across!
Entries by George Cramer
The Cartier Ceinture was named after its case, which is shaped like a belt’s buckle (‘ceinture’ is the French word for belt). This Cartier watch with a very interesting square case featuring corners that appear to be “cut” and an unusual crown to be found nowhere else in the collection is a hidden gem on the market for vintage watches. George Cramer explains why.
At SIHH 2019, George Cramer was pleased to see a stunning new historically inspired Santos-Dumont model in stainless steel. And to his eye it looks even better than the model from the now-defunct Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) line.
Here George Cramer looks across more than one hundred years of evolution of what may well be called the world’s first pilot’s wristwatch: the Cartier Santos-Dumont.
Since its very early years, one of Cartier’s strengths aside from jewelry and watches has surprisingly been accessories for men. In fact, cufflinks appeared in Cartier records as far back as 1859. Here George Cramer explores modern and vintage options for a nice personal touch.
George Cramer was so impressed by a photo of a Wolf watch winder in a magazine that within minutes he was browsing online through the company’s complete collection of winders. He found the large number of watch winders and other watch-related products like cases impressive. So impressive that he asked to review one.
The Tank Louis Cartier Jumbo, which was available in the 1970s, is the only Tank Louis Cartier equipped with an automatic movement, Caliber 170, However, what really appeals to George Cramer is the Jumbo’s perfect size, coming neatly between the Classic and XL models.
While the Collection Privée Cartier Paris was the definitive illustration of a time of forgotten elegance, the Fine Watch Making Collection, despite its extremely high quality and finishing, became one of the best examples of a disaster in the trend of pretentious haute horlogerie of the last decade. So what’s going on with Cartier’s high watchmaking division now?
The Zeitwerk was the watch that encouraged George Cramer to start following A. Lange & Söhne more closely, but it still took until last year before he finally got to handle one in the metal. And he became instantly addicted.
In this article I compare the new Santos de Cartier Skeleton to the Santos-Dumont Squelette from 2010 as these two models are from the same family, have a lot in common, and share the same high-end caliber.