A skeletonized watch today is not the same thing as a skeletonized watch from, say, ten years ago.
Back then, a skeletonizer would have taken hours upon hours to saw and file away at an existing movement in order to remove all that is superfluous.
Today, skeletonized movements are for the most part conceived to be such right from the start. This means that more often than not, the plates and/or bridges come right out of the CNC machine in the skeletonized form the designer had conceived for them – though there is much hand finishing required.
At the 2015 edition of SIHH, we found five such skeletonized watches, all of which were designed as such from the get-go.
And because Cartier has been such a leading figure in this precise genre, we’re going to kick off this skeleton fiesta with three lovely new “barebones” Cartier models.
First off, we have that classic of all Cartier classics, the Tank: the Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire. Even if it looks a tad vintage due to the classic rectangular lines of the Tank shape, rest assured that it is powered by a modern manually wound movement beating at 4 Hz (28,800 vph).
Double spring barrels even provide the petite (26 x 26.3 x 3.6 mm) Caliber 9622 MC with three days of power reserve.
Quick Facts Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire
Case: pink gold, 30 x 39.2 x 7.45 mm with beaded crown set with blue sapphire cabochon
Movement: manually wound Caliber 9622 MC
Functions: hours, minutes
Next up is a new rendition of the iconoclastic Crash model, which first appeared on the scene in 1967. Part of the new Mechanical Legends line at Cartier, the all-new Crash Skeleton is remarkable in that its skeletonized movement is shaped just like the off-kilter case – making this Cartier’s first in-house shaped movement.
Additionally, the plate’s skeletonization forms the numerals. Caliber 9618 MC also includes double spring barrels for three days of power reserve.
Quick Facts Cartier Crash Skeleton
Case: platinum, 28.15 x 45.32 x 9.62 mm with beaded crown set with blue sapphire cabochon
Movement: manually wound Caliber 9618 MC
Functions: hours, minutes
Finally, we felt it important to include Cartier’s first in-house “grand complication,” the Rotonde de Cartier Grand Complication, though technically it is “just” a highly complicated timepiece rather than a true grand complication as it is missing a chronograph function.
This incredible – and surprisingly svelte – timepiece contains 578 components that take 15 weeks to manufacture. Moreover, they need another 10 weeks for finishing and 5 weeks for assembly. This timepiece was five years in development.
Its micro rotor keeps the movement height down to a svelte 5.49 mm despite automatic winding, and it is stamped with the Seal of Geneva.
Quick Facts Rotonde de Cartier Grand Complication
Case: platinum, 45 x 12.6 mm with beaded crown set with blue sapphire cabochon
Movement: automatic Caliber 9406 MC with one-minute flying tourbillon and Seal of Geneva
Functions: hours, minutes; perpetual calendar, minute repeater
Price: $620,000
Roger Dubuis is known for its skeletonized timepieces in the modern age, and it seemed to us that most of the brand’s SIHH 2015 offerings were indeed created in this manner. They are fun to look at and light to wear despite their larger sizes.
For more information on this model, please read Enlightenment And Nothingness: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton.
Quick Facts Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton
Case: 42 mm pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber RD820SQ, fully skeletonized
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: $78,100
Parmigiani released a skeletonized edition of its very thin Tonda 1950 at the 2015 SIHH, which remains very svelte despite being automatic – like the Rotonde de Cartier Grand Complication – thanks to the use of a micro rotor.
Quick Facts Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette
Case: 39 x 7.8 mm pink or white gold
Movement: automatic Caliber PF705
Functions: hours, minutes
Strap: Hermès leather strap in black or tan
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