by Elizabeth Doerr

Rolex is decidedly famous for its sports watches. Despite that, there are watch fans – and Rolex fans – who prefer a dressier style of timepiece on their wrists. And for them, Rolex has the Cellini line, the first of which was released in 1928 (the Rolex Cellini Prince).

It’s nice to see a softer side to Rolex, and the 2014 edition of the Cellini makes the Geneva brand’s take on the classic dress watch even better.

Rolex Cellini Time in white gold with dark dial

First and foremost, it is important to note that the new Cellini’s size is classic, but decidedly modern at 39 mm. This is the largest Cellini yet to be released, and in the overall scheme of current watch sizing following a period of extremely large case trends over the last decade or so, 39 mm could well bottom out to become the new “classic” size in wristwatches.

Rolex also provides real choices to the prospective buyer of a Rolex dress watch. The 39 mm case is available in white or Everose (pink) gold in two dial executions (one light, one dark) for each of three models making for 12 references in all.

2014 Rolex Cellini collection: (L-R) Time, Date, and Dual Time

The Cellini collection includes a time-only automatic; an automatic model with an unusually placed date at 3 o’clock (an atypical choice that really differentiates this watch), and a GMT model with day/night indication.

Their designs all remain minimal, with nothing superfluous to them as befits Rolex’s overall house style. I particularly like these watches’ sober, refined lines, which appeal to lovers of both modern and classic watches.

Rolex Cellini Dual Time in Everose gold with light dial

In fact, I would go so far as to say that my personal taste is most efficiently catered to when a modern watch contains very classic attributes. Some of these would include an oignon-style crown (check), a fluted bezel (check), and clean, proportioned dials that, while remaining elegant, are easily read (check). A little guilloché style never hurts, either (check).

There is a reason that these dials are so pleasing to the eye: Rolex’s designers have calculated their aesthetics in line with what’s known as the Golden Section (a principle of what designers call the Divine Proportion), which in essence is mathematics expressing beauty.

Rolex Cellini Date in white gold with light dial

One absolutely delightful detail is that even though all other Rolex models (like many other brands) tend to have the term “C.O.S.C.” added to the dial, on the Cellini models the designers have dispensed with this and all other verbiage with the exception of “Rolex Genève,” “Cellini,” and “Swiss made” (this I find okay, much more than that turns me right off).

The Rolex movements powering all the Cellini models are indeed officially certified by the Swiss chronometer authority C.O.S.C., but you only know if you know. As it should be, in my opinion.

Rolex Cellini Date in Everose (pink) gold with dark dial

I’m also quite enamored of the double-level, screw-down bezel on the case back, which softly echoes the easy fluting of the case on the front. This case back is reminiscent of Rolex’s famed Oyster Bubble Back.

One other thing about that delicious little crown: not only do I like its vintage-inspired look, but it’s also not hard to appreciate that the screw-down oignon-style crown helps make the new Cellini safer when its stated water-resistance of 5 ATM is tested out. The Cellini line was neither water-resistant nor automatic before this.

The Cellini is one of just a very few Rolex models not housed in the famous, highly water-resistant Oyster case.

Rolex Cellini Dual Time in Everose (pink) gold with light dial

A workhorse in disguise

Rolex’s new Cellini line is powered by an old and very reliable Rolex friend: three variations of automatic Caliber 3135 (Caliber 3132, the date-enhanced 3165, and 3180, which runs the dual-time model).

Updated for use in the larger-sized Explorer and Cellini lines, these newer variations of Rolex Caliber 3135 boast larger base plates to fit the more modernly sized cases released in recent years. Rolex has added modules to the 3135 base for the additional functions: the second time zone (Caliber 3180) and the unusual date display (Caliber 3165).

Rolex Cellini Date in white gold with light dial

Caliber 3135, originally introduced around 1988, was the successor to Rolex Caliber 3035, a strong, reliable and accurate variation of previous Rolex calibers that beat at frequencies slower than 4Hz. Caliber 3135, which beats at 28,800 vph, has been periodically upgraded to improve performance and reliability. One such later addition was Rolex’s blue Parachrom hairspring, which is both non-magnetic and shock-resistant in a more effective way thanks to its unusual alloy containing niobium and zirconium.

Rolex Cellini Date in Everose gold with dark dial

All in all, excellent choices for use inside these elegant dress watches; these movements are tried-and-tested examples of fine – and reliable! – Swiss watchmaking.

For more information, please visit www.rolex.com/watches.html#cellini-collection.

Quick Facts Cellini Time
Case: 39 mm, pink gold or white gold, water-resistant to 5 ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Movement: automatic Caliber 3132 with blue Parachrom balance spring, C.O.S.C.-certified
Price: $15,200 in both metals

Quick Facts Cellini Date
Case: 39 mm, pink gold or white gold, water-resistant to 5 ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, sweep seconds; date
Movement: automatic Caliber 3165 with blue Parachrom balance spring, C.O.S.C.-certified
Price: $17,200 in white gold; $17,800 in pink gold

Quick Facts Cellini Dual Time
Case: 39 mm, pink gold or white gold, water-resistant to 5 ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, sweep seconds; 12-hour display/second time zone with day/night indication
Movement: automatic Caliber 3180 with blue Parachrom balance spring, C.O.S.C.-certified
Price: $19,400 in both metals