Rolex is decidedly famous for its sports watches. Despite that, there are watch fans – and Rolex fans – who prefer a dressier style of timepiece on their wrists. And for them, Rolex has the Cellini line, the first of which was released in 1928 (the Rolex Cellini Prince).
It’s nice to see a softer side to Rolex, and the 2014 edition of the Cellini makes the Geneva brand’s take on the classic dress watch even better.
Rolex Cellini Time in white gold with dark dial
First and foremost, it is important to note that the new Cellini’s size is classic, but decidedly modern at 39 mm. This is the largest Cellini yet to be released, and in the overall scheme of current watch sizing following a period of extremely large case trends over the last decade or so, 39 mm could well bottom out to become the new “classic” size in wristwatches.
Rolex also provides real choices to the prospective buyer of a Rolex dress watch. The 39 mm case is available in white or Everose (pink) gold in two dial executions (one light, one dark) for each of three models making for 12 references in all.
2014 Rolex Cellini collection: (L-R) Time, Date, and Dual Time
The Cellini collection includes a time-only automatic; an automatic model with an unusually placed date at 3 o’clock (an atypical choice that really differentiates this watch), and a GMT model with day/night indication.
Their designs all remain minimal, with nothing superfluous to them as befits Rolex’s overall house style. I particularly like these watches’ sober, refined lines, which appeal to lovers of both modern and classic watches.
Rolex Cellini Dual Time in Everose gold with light dial
In fact, I would go so far as to say that my personal taste is most efficiently catered to when a modern watch contains very classic attributes. Some of these would include an oignon-style crown (check), a fluted bezel (check), and clean, proportioned dials that, while remaining elegant, are easily read (check). A little guilloché style never hurts, either (check).
There is a reason that these dials are so pleasing to the eye: Rolex’s designers have calculated their aesthetics in line with what’s known as the Golden Section (a principle of what designers call the Divine Proportion), which in essence is mathematics expressing beauty.
Rolex Cellini Date in white gold with light dial
One absolutely delightful detail is that even though all other Rolex models (like many other brands) tend to have the term “C.O.S.C.” added to the dial, on the Cellini models the designers have dispensed with this and all other verbiage with the exception of “Rolex Genève,” “Cellini,” and “Swiss made” (this I find okay, much more than that turns me right off).
The Rolex movements powering all the Cellini models are indeed officially certified by the Swiss chronometer authority C.O.S.C., but you only know if you know. As it should be, in my opinion.
Rolex Cellini Date in Everose (pink) gold with dark dial
I’m also quite enamored of the double-level, screw-down bezel on the case back, which softly echoes the easy fluting of the case on the front. This case back is reminiscent of Rolex’s famed Oyster Bubble Back.
One other thing about that delicious little crown: not only do I like its vintage-inspired look, but it’s also not hard to appreciate that the screw-down oignon-style crown helps make the new Cellini safer when its stated water-resistance of 5 ATM is tested out. The Cellini line was neither water-resistant nor automatic before this.
The Cellini is one of just a very few Rolex models not housed in the famous, highly water-resistant Oyster case.
Rolex Cellini Dual Time in Everose (pink) gold with light dial
A workhorse in disguise
Rolex’s new Cellini line is powered by an old and very reliable Rolex friend: three variations of automatic Caliber 3135 (Caliber 3132, the date-enhanced 3165, and 3180, which runs the dual-time model).
Updated for use in the larger-sized Explorer and Cellini lines, these newer variations of Rolex Caliber 3135 boast larger base plates to fit the more modernly sized cases released in recent years. Rolex has added modules to the 3135 base for the additional functions: the second time zone (Caliber 3180) and the unusual date display (Caliber 3165).
Rolex Cellini Date in white gold with light dial
Caliber 3135, originally introduced around 1988, was the successor to Rolex Caliber 3035, a strong, reliable and accurate variation of previous Rolex calibers that beat at frequencies slower than 4Hz. Caliber 3135, which beats at 28,800 vph, has been periodically upgraded to improve performance and reliability. One such later addition was Rolex’s blue Parachrom hairspring, which is both non-magnetic and shock-resistant in a more effective way thanks to its unusual alloy containing niobium and zirconium.
Rolex Cellini Date in Everose gold with dark dial
All in all, excellent choices for use inside these elegant dress watches; these movements are tried-and-tested examples of fine – and reliable! – Swiss watchmaking.
For more information, please visit www.rolex.com/watches.html#cellini-collection.
Quick Facts Cellini Time
Case: 39 mm, pink gold or white gold, water-resistant to 5 ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Movement: automatic Caliber 3132 with blue Parachrom balance spring, C.O.S.C.-certified
Price: $15,200 in both metals
Quick Facts Cellini Date
Case: 39 mm, pink gold or white gold, water-resistant to 5 ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, sweep seconds; date
Movement: automatic Caliber 3165 with blue Parachrom balance spring, C.O.S.C.-certified
Price: $17,200 in white gold; $17,800 in pink gold
Quick Facts Cellini Dual Time
Case: 39 mm, pink gold or white gold, water-resistant to 5 ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, sweep seconds; 12-hour display/second time zone with day/night indication
Movement: automatic Caliber 3180 with blue Parachrom balance spring, C.O.S.C.-certified
Price: $19,400 in both metals
Trackbacks & Pingbacks
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[…] watches – examples being the introduction of the Sky-Dweller and the 2014 re-introduction of the Cellini line – by introducing a bit of […]
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[…] Used to power the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master, Milgauss, and Submariner models, it is also the base movement for the slightly larger-sized Cellini models introduced at Baselworld 2014 (see Does Rolex Make Dress Watches? The Cellini Range Answers That With A Resounding Yes). […]
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[…] Remington Steele was a refined, upper class detective, almost a bit of a dandy, and his choice in watches certainly suited the role. He wears two of them very prominently in various episodes. The first is a yellow gold, black-dialed Rolex Cellini on a black strap (see Does Rolex Make Dress Watches? The Cellini Range Answers That With A Resounding Yes). […]
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[…] year, Rolex introduced its entirely new Cellini models. I was immediately enamored of them (read Does Rolex Make Dress Watches? The Cellini Range Answers That With A Resounding Yes). This year, four new extensions come with a sweet little ring of diamonds on the bezels and few […]
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Hi Elizabeth
Great article because most people think of Rolex as a manufacturer of sport watches like the Rolex Submariner and Rolex GMT. We ( at Bob’s Watches ) do very well with these Cellini models.
I’m really glad to hear that, Paul! The Cellini has advanced to my favorite Rolex line as of last year. You can’t beat that classic look!
It truly is a classy watch! Without compromising functionality.
Hi, tôi ở Việt Nam, nếu tôi mua chiếc Rolex Cellini ngày trong Everose vàng với dial tối gửi về Việt Nam thì hết bao nhiêu tiền?
Do a Rolex cellini watch written ” back water resistance as a proof of its resistance to water pressure? ” just to make sure I have bought a right one
I’m afraid I do not entirely understand your question. Could you possibly rephrase?
Very surprised to see no mention made of Rolex’s entry into the dress watch market in the mid-1950’s with the Veriflat Oyster model. This is after all a forum for vintage collectors also!
For some reason Rolex got out of the dress watch market then, so Veriflats are very rare. But they were also very beautiful, slim and smaller (35mm?) and are now much sought after. Anybody got one out there?
Hi Elizabeth
Surprised you make no mention of Rolex’s brief entry into the classic dress watch market in the mid 1950s when they offered such pieces under the Veriflat and Verislim branding. Both references are relatively unknown within the company’s gigantic line, however they might very well represent its most elegant offering ever, with specific hand-wound movement, the caliber 1000, and, in the case of the Veriflat, a slimmer 34 mm Oyster case. The Veriflat came with a most desirable dial, featuring an elongated crown and the chronometer certification above the small seconds register.
The UK auction house Fellows auctioned such a rare Veriflat – reference 6512 – on September 29th 2017 at an estimate of £2,000 to £3,000 or around $3,000 to $4,500. Anybody out there got one or a photo of one?
Thank you for that extra information, Trevor!