Unique central 24-hour second time zone
Fully integrated movement
Elements of surprise

by Ian Skellern

The 2015 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published the list of pre-selected watches in the run-up to the eagerly anticipated red carpet event in Geneva on October 29.

The categories for 2015 constitute the following: Ladies, Ladies’ High Mech, Men’s, Chronograph, Tourbillon, Calendar, Striking, Mechanical Exception, Petite Aiguille (watches with retail prices up to 8,000 Swiss francs), Jewellery, and Artistic Crafts. The main prize of the evening is, of course, the Aiguille d’Or, which celebrates the best watch among all the entrants according to the jury.

The pre-selected watches will go on a world tour, starting with Hong Kong on October 3. From there the watches will travel to Seoul, South Korea on October 7-8; be on exhibit during Dubai Watch Week October 19-21; and return to Geneva’s Cité du Temps for public viewing from October 27 through November 4. Following the ceremony, the pre-selected timepieces will also be on exhibit during SalonQP in London from November 12 through 14.

But enough preamble, let’s have a look at the watches that are in serious contention for the prizes as of today.

Ladies’ watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG clockwise from top left: Hermès Arceau Petite Lune, DeLaneau Rondo 42 Peony, Hublot Big Bang Broderie, Audemars Piguet Millenary, Ulysse Nardin Jade, and Piaget Limelight Gala

The Ladies’ category contains women’s watches comprising two at most of the following indications: date, power reserve, classic moon phase, and second time zone. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of five carats of gemstones.

The pre-selected Ladies watches for the 2015 edition of the GPHG are shown in the image above clockwise from top left: Hermès Arceau Petite Lune with diamonds, DeLaneau Rondo 42 Peony, Hublot Big Bang Broderie, Audemars Piguet Millenary, Ulysse Nardin Jade, and Piaget Limelight Gala.

High Mech Ladies watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG shown clockwise from top left: Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock, Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower, Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery, Piaget Altiplano 1200S, Chaumet Hortensia Creative Complication, and Bulgari Il Giardino Notturno

According to this category, Ladies’ High-Mech are women’s watches remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ category.

The pre-selected Ladies High Mech watches for 2015 are shown clockwise from top left in the image above: Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock, Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower, Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery, Piaget Altiplano 1200S, Chaumet Hortensia Creative Complication, and Bulgari Il Giardino Notturno.

Men’s watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG shown clockwise from top left: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Small Seconds, Laurent Ferrier Galet Square, Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone, Voutilainen GMR, MB&F HMX, and Piaget Altiplano 900P

Men’s watches comprise two at most of the following indications: date, power reserve, classic moon phase, second time zone. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of five carats’ worth of gemstones.

The pre-selected Men’s watches for 2015 are shown clockwise from top left in the image above: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Small Seconds, Laurent Ferrier Galet Square, Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone, Voutilainen GMR, MB&F HMX, and the Piaget Altiplano 900P.

Chronograph watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG are shown clockwise from top left: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher, Longines The Longines Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph, Louis Moinet Memoris, Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 Chronograph, Piaget Altiplano Chrono, and Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama

Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

The pre-selected Chronograph watches for 2015 are (clockwise from top left in the image above): Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher, Longines The Longines Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph, Louis Moinet Memoris, Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 Chronograph, Piaget Altiplano Chrono, and Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama.

Tourbillon watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG are shown clockwise from top left: Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon of Tourbillons, Blancpain L-evolution Tourbillon Carrousel, Bovet 1822 Braveheart, MB&F Horological Machine N°6, Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon, and Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision

In the Tourbillon category, we find mechanical watches that contain at least one tourbillon. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

The pre-selected Tourbillon watches for 2015 are shown in the image above clockwise from top left: Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon of Tourbillons, Blancpain L-evolution Tourbillon Carrousel, Bovet 1822 Braveheart, MB&F Horological Machine N°6, Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon, and Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision.

Calendar watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG shown clockwise from top left: Hermès Slim d’Hermès QP, Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet, Claude Meylan Full Calendar, Ulysse Nardin FreakLab, Tiffany & Co CT60 Annual Calendar, and Hublot Classic Fusion Aeromoon

According to the GPHG Calendar category, these timepieces are mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phase display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

The pre-selected Calendar watches for 2015 are (clockwise from top left in the image above): Hermès Slim d’Hermès QP, Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet, Claude Meylan Full Calendar, Ulysse Nardin FreakLab, Tiffany & Co CT60 Annual Calendar, and Hublot Classic Fusion Aeromoon.

Striking watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG shown clockwise from top left: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, Akrivia Tourbillon Chiming Jump Hour, Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges, Hublot Big Bang Alarm Repeater, Franc Vila Inaccessible Tourbillon Minute Repeater, and Christophe Claret Allegro

Striking watches contain at least one acoustic indication or complication. These are notably watches equipped with a repeater, striking, musical, or any other acoustic function. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

The pre-selected Striking watches for 2015 are shown clockwise from top left in the image above: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, Akrivia Tourbillon Chiming Jump Hour, Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges, Hublot Big Bang Alarm Repeater, Franc Vila Inaccessible Tourbillon Minute Repeater, and Christophe Claret Allegro.

Mechanical Exception watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG are shown clockwise from top left: Christophe Claret Maestoso, Hautlence Vortex, HYT H3, Jaquet Droz Charming Bird, Emmanuel Bouchet Complication One, and DeWitt Academia Mathematical

The Mechanical Exception category features watches with a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a belt-driven movement, or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.

The pre-selected Mechanical Exception watches for 2015 are (clockwise from top left in the image above): Christophe Claret Maestoso, Hautlence Vortex, HYT H3, Jaquet Droz Charming Bird, Emmanuel Bouchet Complication One, and DeWitt Academia Mathematical.

Petite Aiguille watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG shown clockwise from top left: Hermès Slim d’Hermès, Habring2 Felix, Bulgari Diagono Magnesium, Zenith Elite 6150, Tudor North Flag, and Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum

Watches entered into the Petite Aiguille category are offered for a retail price under 8,000 Swiss francs.

The pre-selected Petite Aiguille watches for 2015 are shown clockwise from top left in the image above: Hermès Slim d’Hermès, Habring2 Felix, Bulgari Diagono Magnesium, Zenith Elite 6150, Tudor North Flag, and Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum.

Sports watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG are shown clockwise from top left: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, Harry Winston Project Z9, Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional Diver’s 1000m Hi-Beat 36000, Zenith El Primero Sport, and Tudor Pelagos

The Sports category contains watches linked to the field of sports, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to physical activities.

The pre-selected Sports watches for 2015 are illustrated clockwise from top left in the image above: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, Harry Winston Project Z9, Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional Diver’s 1000m Hi-Beat 36000, Zenith El Primero Sport, and Tudor Pelagos.

Jewellery watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG shown clockwise from top left: Chaumet Joséphine Aigrette Impériale, Fabergé Summer in Provence Multicoloured Sapphire, Audemars Piguet Diamond Punk, Piaget Extremely Piaget Double Sided Cuff Watch, Bulgari Mvsa High Jewellery, and De Grisogono Grappoli

Jewellery watches demonstrate exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gemsetting. These timepieces are also distinguished by the choice of stones featured in them.

The pre-selected Jewellery watches for 2015 are (clockwise from top left in the image above): Chaumet Joséphine Aigrette Impériale, Fabergé Summer in Provence Multicoloured Sapphire, Audemars Piguet Diamond Punk, Piaget Extremely Piaget Double Sided Cuff Watch, Bulgari Mvsa High Jewellery, and De Grisogono Grappoli.

Artistic craft watches pre-selected for the 2015 GPHG shown clockwise from top left: Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke, Blancpain Villeret with Shakudo dial, Girard-Perregaux Chamber of Wonders The New World, Hermès Slim d’Hermès Koma Kurabe, Piaget Altiplano Scrimshaw, and Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic 36mm

Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine-turning), skeletonizing, and more.

The pre-selected Artistic Crafts watches for 2015 are shown clockwise from top left in the image above: Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke, Blancpain Villeret with Shakudo dial, Girard-Perregaux Chamber of Wonders The New World, Hermès Slim d’Hermès Koma Kurabe, Piaget Altiplano Scrimshaw, and Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic 36mm.

These are the 72 watches eligible for 12 prizes (13 with the Aiguille d’Or). Let us know which watches you think might take home a trophy and why in the comments.

In case you missed our coverage of the event last year, you might like Reflections On The 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

For more information, please visit www.gphg.org.