by Nancy Olson
To me, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde line is one of the most classic-looking collections around thanks in part to its vintage pocket watch design cues.
It also happens to have that spare and elegant look that I really love in a timepiece.
So when the sporty version called Grande Seconde SW came out in 2008, I had to wrap my head around the concept, since “sport” was not a word I would necessarily consider putting in the same sentence as “Grande Seconde.”
But I think Jaquet Droz did a great job in designing the SW, offering a bigger watch with fresh details like a reconfigured bezel and dial, greater water resistance, and luminescence.
There’s even a titanium-and-rubber version within the collection today; other versions come in gold or stainless steel. Each is unmistakably a Grande Seconde, but without some of the formality, and this is a good thing if you’re aiming for sportiness.
The recently introduced Grande Seconde SW Lady – the first Grande Seconde SW specifically intended for women – is very attractive at 41 mm in stainless steel, a size that was purposefully maintained for this feminine version to comply with consumer desires.
Its notched bezel is dotted with 40 full brilliant-cut diamonds, interrupted only by the familiar case guard that doubles as a crown protector surrounding the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial.
Jaquet Droz’s signature stacked dials (the much talked-about “figure eight”), also in mother-of-pearl, have blued steel hands partially coated in Super-LumiNova.
The use of both polished and brushed metal adds another layer of interest and dimension to a watch that is already multi-dimensional. And with hollowed strap lugs, the overall weight of the piece is considerably lightened, making it much more comfortable to wear than one may surmise.
The crown has a touch of black rubber, presumably to accent the watch’s sporty aspect and certainly to make gripping it easier, but it mostly adds a nice accent that reinforces the black Roman and Arabic numerals on the adjacent dials.
Driving the hours, minutes, and seconds is the ruthenium-treated, self-winding Jaquet Droz 2663A-S caliber with a silicon balance spring. The double barrel movement with 30 jewels beating at 3 Hz (28,800 vph) offers 68 hours of power reserve; it is the same movement currently used in the 45 mm Grande Seconde SW.
The watch’s exhibition case back offers a great view, with the white gold “skeletonized” oscillating weight adding drama to the sunray côtes de Genève decoration beneath it.
This watch, like its made-for-men brethren, is water resistant to 50 meters.
The hue of the alligator leather strap integrated into the case is described as “powdered violet,” and while this might not have been my first choice, it’s a welcome – and fashionable – hit of color against all that white metal and diamonds. It also brings out subtle hues in the mother-of-pearl, which is a nice touch.
For more information, please visit www.jaquet-droz.com/en/watches/grande-seconde-sw.
Quick Facts
Movement: automatic Caliber Jaquet Droz 2663A-S with silicon balance spring and twin spring barrels for 68 hours of power reserve
Case: 41 x 10.89 mm, stainless steel, 40 brilliant-cut diamonds on bezel (0.86 ct)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: 21,600 Swiss francs
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