by Ian Skellern
It’s no exaggeration to say that here at Quill & Pad we are big fans of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (see Why I Bought My Wife An Engraved Reverso Classique . . . And Why You Shouldn’t (Even Though I’m Happy) and Why I Bought It: Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To Reverso 1931).
Naturally, the concept of a haute horlogerie watch that you can flip over while on the wrist so as to protect the crystal and dial from damage while playing robust sports like polo is an enticing one.
But, thought Urwerk’s Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei (they didn’t really think this, but it makes for a better story, doesn’t it?), the Reverso covers polo players, but what about people involved in really dangerous activities like rodeo riders and stunt men?
What they need is a watch that when flipped over protects like the hide of a Tyrannosaurus Rex . . . in titanium!
Reversing the case of the Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer”
Urwerk UR-T8 Black
Presenting the Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer”
The UR-T8 “Transformer” commemorates Urwerk’s twentieth anniversary in 2017, and there’s more to this timepiece than the reversible case.
Urwerk UR-T8 in the process of reversing
As Frei explains, “Our UR-T8 of course recalls the Reverso watches, we have unstructured the concept to create a genuine Urwerk model. The UR-T8 features all the characteristics that we have made our own: the huge crown, the organically shaped sapphire crystal glass, the textured case that invites your touch, a strong personality, and a recognizable visual signature.”
Urwerk UR-T8 at the halfway stage of reversing the case
Urwerk UR-T8 Bi-Color in the process of transforming
Satellite within satellite system
The UR-T8’s complex planetary gearing revolves the three-armed satellite carousel every three hours, presenting a new hour marker to transit the minute arc every hour; once it has finished transiting the minute arc, each hour disk revolves so that it is ready to present the next of its four hour numerals the next time it is front and center. The hour disks continually adjust while they are transiting the minute arc to that they are always oriented perfectly parallel to the minutes.
Assembling a UR-T8 at Urwerk’s atelier in Geneva
The carousels within which the planetary gearing rotates are made from aluminum and titanium for maximum strength and rigidity for minimum mass.
Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer”
Back of the Urwerk UR-T8 Bi-Color
Turbine-regulated winding
The automatic winding system is regulated by Urwerk’s innovate air micro turbine, which automatically increases resistance during vigorous activity to decrease wear in the winding mechanism. The micro turbine can be seen through a discreet aperture embedded in the pronounced dinosaur scale-like guilloche of the protective back.
Reversible case
Reversing the case of the UR-T8 is both simple and safe. You simultaneously press the two nearly flush pushers at the front of the case band and the case unlocks from its “dock,” enabling it to be lifted and rotated.
Felix Baumgartner modeling the Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer”
A clever security mechanism ensures that the case cannot be lowered back into position unless perfectly oriented to avoid jamming or scratching. And that perfect position is easy to find because it can be clearly felt.
Reversing the case of the Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer”
It’s when operating the reversing case that you can feel the quality of the mechanism: it is engineered like a Mercedes S Class.
The “8” in T8 comes from the fact that the case plots a figure 8 course as it lifts, rotates, and descends.
Urwerk UR-T8 on the wrist with the protective shield side up
The UR-T8 does not just transform itself from a piece of fine watchmaking displaying the time to a masculine shield against anything that may try to hurt it; it also represents the end of one era and the transformation of Urwerk toward a new one.
The pushers left and right release the case of the Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer,” enabling it to be reversed
After two decades of creating a fantastic collection of timepieces unified by their satellite indications, Urwerk is now developing watches that will indicate time in other ways. More on that will be revealed at Baselworld 2017.
Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer”
The Urwerk UR-T8 is the Reverso for those playing rougher sports than polo!
Urwerk UR-T8 “Transformer”
Urwerk UR-T8 Bi-Color
For more information on the UR-T8, please visit https://www.urwerk.com/en/.
Quick Facts
Movement: Caliber UR 8.01, automatic winding with pneumatic regulation
Indications: hours and minutes via double rotating planetary gears
Case: 60 x 48 x 20 mm, grade 5 titanium, reversible, water resistance 30 meters
Limitation: 30 pieces in natural titanium, 30 pieces in two-tone black PVD and natural titanium
Price: 100,000 Swiss francs (tax excluded)
Trackbacks & Pingbacks
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[…] When Urwerk launched the UR-105 CT in September 2017, the year of the trendsetting brand’s twentieth anniversary, it certainly made waves in the horological press; however, I couldn’t help feel that it was a little underappreciated and perhaps in the shadow of Urwerk’s “Reverso interpretation,” which launched earlier in the year, the widely successful UR-T8 (see If You’ve Ever Wondered What The Lovechild Of A Reverso And A Tyrannosaurus Rex Might Look Like: P…). […]
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[…] may also enjoy: Urwerk If You’ve Ever Wondered What The Lovechild Of A Reverso And A Tyrannosaurus Rex Might Look Like: P…Urwerk Celebrates 20th Anniversary In 2017: But For Me The Brand Really Blasted Off In 2005 With […]
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[…] The Urwerk UR-T8 (“T” stands for “transformable,” while the “8” signifies the motion of the case as the wearer flips it) is a watch Ian described as the lovechild of a T-Rex and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso in If You’ve Ever Wondered What The Lovechild Of A Reverso And A Tyrannosaurus Rex Might Look Like: P….’ […]
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[…] beautiful enamel dial that really made me look twice, and the Urwerk T-8 “Reverso” (see If You’ve Ever Wondered What The Love Child Of A Reverso And A Tyrannosaurus Rex Might Look Like: …) really highlighted that the small brands more than match the big boys in terms of quality and […]
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I cannot help thinking that a Reverso trying to woo a T. Rex would need all the armour plating that it could find! Fun watch, but not exactly a daily wearer!
Pretty nice, since it is Urwerk, will not state anything about them copying the Jaeger. Not to mention if they did it would be the most bad ass extreme version. Not for me, but the watch is pretty radical and would not be my first watch. Well….
If I ever had the misfortune to find myself wearing a watch as ugly as that, I’d WANT it to get damaged.
This watch looks like it’s ready to blast right off the wrist when it’s in the mid-reversal position! Props to Urwerk for making their watches even closer to sci-fi spaceships.
I’m not too big a fan of the ‘T. Rex’ finishing (don’t know the official term) but as with all of Urwerk’s watches, this design seems primed for future variations.