by Ian Skellern
I recently received the following message from Oleg V in the USA and thought that there were likely to be a lot more of you out there with the same questions. And hopefully a few of you with some great suggestions.
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I would like to start a collection with a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. I find the company and watches to be innovative, haute horologie, and value priced.
I thought I would start with a vintage Memovox, but then sort of wondered if I were to start with a vintage watch whether I should go for something rarer such as the Deep Sea Master Mariner or a vintage Reverso. On the other hand, I thought perhaps instead I should start with more contemporary piece such as Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958 (tribute to the original one) – I find the Geophysic just a great marvel of all things JLC. Or a tribute Polaris model.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time on the wrist
I understand the Reverso is an icon, but the one I like is too expensive (with a minute repeater) and I am not sure which of the other Reverso models would be a good start. Perhaps Grande Date (pre-owned)?
I read articles on the Quill & Pad by GaryG and Ian Skellern about Jaeger-LeCoultre. I am not sure what I am asking – maybe some guidance as to what perhaps you would recommend.
I am looking for a watch I would enjoy as well as that would hold its value.
My budget is $6,000-$12,000.
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Do you think a Jaeger-LeCoultre is the write choice for Oleg and if so which model? Please add any advice and suggestions to the comments below.
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Reverso is iconic – get one that offers style and flexibility. Reverso Grande GMT is awesome. Size is perfect and two working faces – one white, one black – give amazing flexibility. Fits your budget too.
The new sector watches are also beautiful and offer great value.
The Geophysic Universal Time is also spectacular and includes their patented dead-beat second technology.
Good luck.
It’s always tricky offering advice on what should probably be primarily a taste issue. However, it would be hard to be disappointed with any new JLC watches (I have both a Master Ultra Thin Moon, black dial, and a Geophysic Universal Time: both beautiful and, relatively speaking, well-priced watches). Vintage watches are however potentially full of pitfalls for non-experts and should always be approached with care! All of which is probably a bit trite, but the old, well-tried messages are still true.
I just recently purchased a LeCoultre it’s very thin white gold with diamonds was it produced by the same company
old triple date but not new
What JLC ?
Certainly a future classic will be the JLC True second. You can get this watch in steel for a v reasonable price now. If you have a bit more money to spend gold is always nice. Another watch that I would highly recommend would be the JLC mark 11. The mark 11 would be great but difficult to get in a worthwhile condition
I feel the best value is in the pre-sector Master Chronograph, especially in black. Different but not too rebellious, outstanding value retention, works in casual or formal looks, fantastic mechanism and finish.
I’d go with the Reverso triple calendar they came out with in steel a few years back. I’ve seen them go for about 8k.
I am big Jaeger LeCoultre fan. I own a Reverso Thin Tribute to 1931 (with the Casa Fagliano strap and syringe hands) and a Geophysic 1958 in stainless steel. I love them both.
Based on the message from Oleg, I would recommend getting a Geophysic 1958. It ticks multiple boxes as it’s both an “explorer” type watch and a dress watch at the same time. What’s really great about it though is that it’s proportions are near perfect. The lugs are just fantastic and it wears really well on the wrist. Arguably my favorite watch in my collection. You can still get them well priced too as a well known grey dealer currently has one for $7,500 US.
JLC has other nice models. The Geophysic Universal Time dial is fantastic, but I wish it was 39mm. Still I’ve seen plenty of good prices for both the steel and gold versions. I would say that it’s arguably the best World Time after a Patek Philippe and definitely the best value in a World Time piece at grey market pricing. The new Polaris line has some nice offerings with the no-date and date versions, both of which have hit the grey market. The update dials, numerals and rubber straps are all well done. The recent Sector Dial Master Control (standard date version) is nice looking and I’ve heard it’s much better looking in person. Depending on what you decide you could get two JLCs if that is your second piece and you use up the entire budget. Finally the Tribute to Deep Sea Alarm and Vintage Chronograph references from a few years back are nice. Prices on those can vary a bit though.
One tip I would offer, Camille Fournet makes the alligator straps for JLC. You can buy from them directly and get a new strap for say a Reverso. The cool thing is they have the same shaped pin buckle with the only difference being the pin buckle isn’t JLC branded. I replaced the black alligator strap on my Geophysic 1958 with a dark navy alligator strap from them and it’s great. Prices are better than going through JLC too.
Best of luck with whatever you decide and Quill and Pad please share his final decision.
The Reverso should be your first JLC. And you mentioned a great one in the GRANDE DATE. It differentiates itself by having an 8-Day power reserve and beautiful exhibition-back.
This is one of the few watches that I purchased new through AD but at a time when you could get 40% off retail! With the exception of two other watches, the remainder of my collection has come from watch auctions. I’ve had no problem getting like new pre-owned this way.
You can do the same. While this watch very rarely shows up at auction, you can easily find for less than $8k.
I have to agree with Tony and Ian as I own and cherish a Reverso Grande GMT as well as the Geophysic Universal Time. Also think the basic True Second is a great choice but hard to go wrong with any of the suggestions!