by Martin Green
I am a huge fan of the Omega Seamaster.
It was a blue-dialed Seamaster Professional 300M on a “Bond” bracelet (so nicknamed when it first featured on Pierce Brosnan’s wrist in Goldeneye) that was my entry into the fascinating world of high-end Swiss watches so many years ago. While my taste has evolved over the years, my love for the Seamaster hasn’t changed.
I favor dress watches, but whenever there is a sports watch on my wrist there is a high probability that it is a Seamaster. So I was quite excited that Omega presented so many new Seamasters during the Swatch Group’s Time to Move event.
Omega Seamaster 300 with malachite and lapis lazuli dials: too much of a good thing?
The most eye-catching of the new Seamasters are by far the ones that make the least sense to me. Housed in either gold or platinum, the Seamaster 300 features dials in either malachite or lapis lazuli – the latter sourced by Omega from Afghanistan. While there are other sources for lapis lazuli in the world, the semi-precious stone from that region is known to have small gold specks, adding to its appeal.
Omega Seamaster 300 with malachite dial on the wrist
The fact that these watches are fitted with straps made of Louisiana alligator skin says something, too: despite being capable divers’ watches, they will most likely never see water.
I prefer the lapis lazuli version with platinum case, while the malachite dial looks great in its 18-karat yellow gold case. Omega is stretching its boundaries a bit with these watches, going beyond just adding a precious metal case by moving these dive watches into another realm.
A close look at the malachite dial of the 2019 Omega Seamaster 300
The stone dials add another dynamic to these watches, setting them further apart from the regular production models, while the vintage-inspired design keeps them palatable and minimizes a “nouveau riche” feel.
Omega Seamaster 300 with lapis lazuli dial between malachite and Afghan lapis lazuli specimens
Seen in that light, they are most certainly not too much of a good thing. It makes no sense to craft a diver from precious metal, let alone fit it with a stone dial, but these Seamasters wear so splendidly that they are serious contenders for the position of the world’s best desk diver watch currently on the market.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M chronograph: Time to Move!
The Seamaster Diver 300M is now also available as a chronograph. This is a welcome addition to the collection, especially since Omega integrated this complication so beautifully into the existing design.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M chronograph with black dial and bezel
All the functions are highly legible and made captivating by only using two subdials slightly sunken into the dial. Combined with the wave design and the applied hour markers, this results in a very three-dimensional dial.
The left subdial shows the running seconds, while the right is dedicated to the chronograph function, uniting both the hour and minute counters in an easy-to-read way while keeping the dial clean.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M chronograph with black dial and bezel
Omega integrated the date at 6 o’clock, matching the background of the date wheel to the color of the dial – this is a small detail that makes all the difference yet is often overlooked, even by some of the most esteemed manufactures.
The ceramic pushers for the chronograph function have a nice resistance when you push them, and on the wrist the Seamaster Diver 300M chronograph feels very solid and high-end.
An Omega Seamaster bird in the hand: Diver 300M chronograph with black dial and bezel
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M time only
In the time-only line, it is the black ceramic-and-titanium versions that impress me most. These materials make the sizable watches quite light, and they look sensational.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
It makes me wonder why Omega doesn’t do this more often within the Seamaster line, as we all know that the brand is capable of making ceramic in multiple colors from previous Speedmasters with ceramic.
Omega Seamaster 300M with ‘Bond’ steel bracelet on the wrist
The use of black ceramic and titanium also give the Seamaster a no-nonsense edge – like doses of Samuel L. Jackson and Keanu Reeves in the John Wick trilogy.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra: the world is your oyster
The Seamaster range has always been quite extensive, including not only die-hard diver’s watches but also variations injected with a more urban feel.
The 2019 Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra in stainless steel
The Polaris from the 1980s as well as the Seamaster 120M from the 1990s come to mind, but so does the Aqua Terra.
The Aqua Terra collection has been expanded in 2019 with a new worldtimer that is nothing short of stunning! The sunray-brushed dial makes a visual connection to the ocean by using vertical lines giving the impression of a yacht deck. A Hesalite ring in the center of the watch features a light-and-dark-blue section that indicates the 24 hours of a day.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra in stainless steel: note Biel/Bienne (where Omega is headquartered) as the reference city for Central European Time
At the center Omega placed a space view of the northern hemisphere that is created by lasering a plate of grade five titanium. The sheer volume of details is stunning, making this in my honest opinion one of the most tempting world time watches currently available at any price point.
Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean: orange is orange, not the new black
Omega also launched two new versions of the Planet Ocean: a time-only plus a chronograph. The Planet Ocean has never been my favorite; I prefer the styling of the Seamaster Diver 300M – or in the past the Seamaster Professional.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean chronograph on the wrist
The new ones, where orange is once again the dominant color, don’t change my opinion. The bezel is now in ceramic, although I prefer the aluminum bezels of the previous generation.
The orange on those had more of a high-tech look to them as well as a more vibrant tone. While technically supreme, aesthetically the new bezels don’t hit the sweet spot for me.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
Diver’s watches are usually generously sized to maximize visibility and strength, but the Planet Oceans have a knack for exaggerating that, and the new Planet Ocean stays true to that ethos.
A close look at the dial and ceramic bezel of the 2019 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean chronograph
In particular, the chronograph is so large and bulky you might think it had been launched a few years ago when oversized watches were still en vogue.
The new Planet Ocean Chronograph has both a large diameter and considerable height. With a diameter of 45.5 mm it is 1.5 mm larger than the Seamaster Diver 300M chronograph and also 1.67 mm thicker.
The time-only version of the Planet Ocean is more bearable as it has a smaller diameter, coming in at 43.5 mm, and it is slimmer. Yet with its plain-looking bracelet and all-over-the-place dial design, I find it less convincing than the Seamaster Diver 300M.
Apart from the Planet Ocean, which without a doubt will be loved and cherished despite my opinion, I consider this one of the best years of new Seamasters. To me 2019 even surpasses 2018, which says something as that was an anniversary year for the model.
For more information, please visit www.omegawatches.com/watches/seamaster.
Quick Facts Omega Seamaster Diver 300M chronograph
Case: 44 x 17.2 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 9900 with co-axial escapement and free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring; official METAS certification as a chronometer; resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss; twin serially operating spring barrels for 60 hours of power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Price: $7,450 (on “Bond bracelet”)
Quick Facts Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean chronograph
Case: 45.5 x 18.87 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 9900 with co-axial escapement and free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring; official METAS certification as a chronometer; resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss; twin serially operating spring barrels for 60 hours of power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Price: $8,000 (on NATO strap)
Quick Facts Omega Seamaster 300M
Case: 41 x 14.65 mm, 18-karat yellow gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 8913 with co-axial escapement and free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring; official METAS certification as a chronometer, 3.5 Hz/25,200 vph, 60 hours of power reserve frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: $26,500
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