Timeless And Under The Radar: Three New Classics From Montblanc, Baume & Mercier, And Nomos Glashütte
As the year 2019 slowly comes to an end and the holidays quickly approach, now is a great time to look back on some awesome watch debuts that stood out for me in 2019.
There were many highlights setting new benchmarks in terms of technology and design – just have a look at the winners crowned at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Unfortunately, most of these statement pieces are quite expensive, often out of reach, and not made for everyday wear.
Deciding to take a look beyond the limelight, I spotted three intriguing variations of existing timepieces from Montblanc, Baume & Mercier, and Nomos Glashütte that make a serious statement on the wrist without breaking the bank.
With their timeless styles, all three of them would also make for great gifts for the watch lovers on your list. Including yourself.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467: quintessential chronometric elegance
One of the major trends I have noticed over the last couple of years is that brands are putting ever more effort into their dials, with 2019 having seen a host of stunning degradé examples that feature expressive colors in finely shaded hues.
This technique, which adds depth and vibrancy to the watch’s “face,” also graces the latest edition of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic by highlighting the chic trending blue that transitions from a lighter hue in the center to a midnight blue around the perimeter.
This radiant vibe serves as a classy background for the elongated triangular hour markers and neat minute markers as well as the finely pointed alpha hands and the white-on-blue date harmoniously integrated at 3 o’clock.
Aside from this highly pleasing appearance, the timepiece first introduced in 2018 goes above and beyond when it comes to state-of-the art features.
Outfitted with a 120-hour power reserve, the watch offers increased magnetic resistance thanks to a protective inner cage around the movement. The maintenance interval has been extended to seven years, and the watch comes with an official C.O.S.C. chronometer certificate proving its excellent rate.
These perks are presented in the understated style of the 1960s-inspired Clifton line with perfectly balanced proportions and a gorgeous sector dial.
The technical supremacy is accompanied by a high standard of finishing with circular graining on the bridges, sandblasted and snailed plates, and a skeletonized rotor with Geneva waves that can be appreciated through the sapphire crystal back.
For more information, please visit www.baume-et-mercier.com/us/en/collections/clifton-baumatic-men/watch-clifton-baumatic-10467-date.
Quick Facts Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467
Case: 40 x 11.1 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber BM13-1975A COSC, 4 Hz/28,800 vph, power reserve 120 hours, official C.O.S.C. chronometer certificate
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Price: $2,990 / €2,800
Nomos Glashütte Metro Rose Gold 33: elegance in pink gold
Talking about classy dress watches, the Nomos Glashütte Metro is a standout.
First introduced in 2014 with a power reserve indicator and a large date driven by hand-wound manufacture Caliber DUW 4401, the Metro’s unmistakable design is the brainchild of designer Mark Braun from Germany’s capital of cool, Berlin.
Braun introduced a decidedly new style to the Glashütte brand’s collection with an urban note by revisiting vintage precision instruments. Drawing inspiration from the Empire State Building for the hands, the dial is defined by fine dots as hour and minute markers.
The case, notably slim as in all Nomos watches, features wire lugs and a knurled crown that lends a slightly retro aura to the timepiece.
Recently Nomos introduced a new time-only version in pink gold with a modest diameter of 33 mm, making it the smallest of the brand’s Metro timepieces.
Gold watches are quite a rarity for the brand, but the precious material adds even more sophistication to the dressy appearance.
The Metro Rose Gold 33 features a galvanized white dial framed by a very thin bezel and marked with gray hour and light violet minute dots. This color scheme works very well with the suede strap. The hands displaying hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds echo the warm shade of the pink gold case.
The Metro Rose Gold 33 is powered by in-house Caliber Alpha with manual winding, a classic we find in many Nomos three-handers with the signature small seconds at 6 o’clock. As is typical for the manufacture, it shows off the high quality of execution and attention to detail.
For more information, please visit www.nomos-glashuette.com/en/metro/metro-rose-gold.
Quick Facts Nomos Glashütte Metro Rose Gold 33
Case: 33 x 7.7 mm, pink gold
Movement: manufacture Caliber Alpha with manual winding, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 43-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Price: $7,200 / €5,600
Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph: a real movement clad in classy auto-watch style
If you want an authentic octane-loaded chronograph with an in-house movement that doesn’t break the bank, look no further: the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph wraps it all up, adding a polished ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale for measuring speed as the icing on the cake.
It surrounds the unmistakable TimeWalker-style dial with reverse panda counters, characterized by a deep black backdrop with bright silver subdials for a strong contrast. All scales, numerals, and details are very finely executed for maximum legibility.
At a diameter of 43 mm, the Timewalker Manufacture Chronograph is masculine but not overly large. Particularly with the brown perforated Sfumato leather strap from Montblanc’s Florence-based Pelletteria, which adds to the overall tasteful vintage charisma, this watch also pairs well with a suit and tie.
It is not just the appearance that makes the TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph a textbook chronograph, but also its sophisticated insides. The automatic MB 25.10 caliber is an automatic movement with column wheel control of the chronograph, horizontal clutch, and a stop-second hacking mechanism allowing the time to be precisely set.
As it would be a shame to hide its high-standard traditional finishing – particularly the black rhodium-plated tungsten steering-wheel-shaped rotor – the inner beauty is revealed through the sapphire crystal case back.
Also notable in this context is the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500, a comprehensive testing program that rigorously examines encased movements in a dedicated laboratory over three weeks, ensuring that your timepiece stays on track.
For more information, please visit www.montblanc.com/en-us/collection/watches/montblanc-timewalker-collection/montblanc-timewalker-manufacture-chronograph.
Quick Facts Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph
Case: 43 x 15.2 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber MB 25.10, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 46-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; date, chronograph
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120 HOUR power reserve LOL
When you write an article it’s obvious you have no editor but you must re-read your writing because you make goofy mistakes, such as claiming in the body of the text that the Baume & Mercier Clifton has a 120 DAY power reserve. Oops.
Thank you for pointing this out – of course it is a power reserve of 120 hours, as stated in the technical descriptions. D.L., indeed there are three proof reading loops for every feature in addition to every authors’ extensive reading, but as it is the case in all fields – errare human est and this slipped through.
errare humanum est!