by Martin Green
Shaped movements are still a rarity within the watch industry where round calibers make up the lion’s share.
When a watch case is shaped, knowledgeable collectors have traditionally insisted on a similarly shaped movement. But that doesn’t always happen – in fact that’s now rare, which is why many rectangular watches have small round (mechanical) movements inside that were originally developed for petite ladies watches.
So it’s all the more commendable that Bulgari spent two and a half years developing a manual-wind movement that perfectly fits the signature serpent head-shaped case of its ladies’ flagship. It is downright fantastic that the brand also went to the additional trouble of equipping this movement with a tourbillon.
A pair in the hand: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillons
The result is a spectacular watch with modest dimensions. In fact, it is the smallest tourbillon movement currently available on the market.
The movement measures 22 by 18 mm, making it perfectly proportioned to fit into the 34 mm case of the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon. Its excellent proportions include the case’s dainty height, measuring only 8.9 mm thanks to the movement height of a modest 3.65 mm.
Shaped movement of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Achieving these svelte proportions is quite an accomplishment as more compact small diameter movements have a tendency to get thicker, especially with the addition of a complication such as a tourbillon.
Why do these proportions matter? Because the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is above all an elegant piece, and that’s something never achieved when dimensions are off.
Diamond-set bezel and case back plus ruby cabochon crown of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Copious precious materials
Benefiting from its background as a jeweler, Bulgari knows like no other how to clothe such an exceptional movement in gold and diamonds. The case is offered in both white and pink gold – the latter providing the watch with more of a classic look that is also influenced by the brown alligator strap it is delivered on.
Making the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
The white gold versions feel more contemporary to me, also perhaps because Bulgari uses blued hands and hour markers to display the time.
On all three versions the dial features snow-set diamonds framed by a bezel set with colorless brilliant-cut diamonds. The case itself also has a snow setting, and I always find this style of placing the diamonds seemingly at random very pleasing to the eye.
Full-diamond Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon on the wrist
They most certainly play their part in further elevating the appeal of the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Balancing act
While the movement is exceptional, as is the use of diamonds, these are, in my opinion, still not the best part of the watch.
The best part is the fact that Bulgari knows how to balance all these ingredients without having one overpower the other. Like a three-star Michelin chef, Bulgari knows how to layer all these “flavors” so that they come together in a creation that tantalizes the senses.
Scale-like links in the diamond-set bracelet of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
The watches are also available on a bracelet with links set with diamonds shaped like the scales of a snake.
On the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon not one element is dominant over the other, though that also doesn’t mean that they blend in with each other. The tourbillon, of course, shines in pole position, but it is still not the center of attention.
A daring move, well played by Bulgari’s head designer Fabrizio Buonamassa, who must have fought the urge to further highlight the movement that the manufacture went to so much trouble to develop.
Tourbillon visible through the back of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Magic trick: looks like a flying tourbillon, but . . .
Talking about the movement, it looks like a flying tourbillon as it seems to lack a bridge on top. But that is not the case.
Bulgari’s technicians crafted this bridge in sapphire crystal, so like a good magic trick it is there but you cannot see it.
Sapphire crystal upper tourbillon bridge of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
I wonder whether this will launch a trend and we see more tourbillon watches with sapphire crystal bridges come out – as challenging as that feat certainly must have been. The balance housed within the tourbillon is the most delicate part of the movement, and the weight of the sapphire crystal must have caused more than a few engineering headaches.
I think Bulgari nailed this piece, reaffirming its status as one of the world’s leading jewelers also able to make a serious manufacture movement.
Movement components of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
The only room for improvement I see concerns the rest of the movement, as I would have liked to see a slightly more refined finish, such as, for example, chamfered bridges.
I know it’s a detail, but at this level these details matter. And I also feel that they would be relatively easy for Bulgari to implement.
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon in pink gold
The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is a breathtakingly beautiful timepiece, very much one of the highlights of the 2020 LVMH Watch Week in Dubai.
For more please visit www.bulgari.com.
Quick Facts Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Case: 34 x 8.9 mm, pink gold, set with a total of 299 diamonds (2.88 ct) on case, bezel, dial and buckle
Movement: manual wind Caliber BVL150 with one-minute tourbillon with sapphire crystal bridge, power reserve 40 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: €86,500
Quick Facts Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Case: 34 x 8.9 mm, white gold, set with a total of 299 diamonds (2.88 ct) on case, bezel, dial and buckle
Movement: manual wind Caliber BVL150 with one-minute tourbillon with sapphire crystal bridge, power reserve 40 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: €90,000
Quick Facts Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Case: 34 x 8.9 mm, white gold, set with a total of 558 diamonds (7.89 ct) on case, bezel, dial and bracelet
Movement: manual wind Caliber BVL150 with one-minute tourbillon with sapphire crystal bridge, power reserve 40 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: €165,000
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I think Bulgari did an amazing job with this watch. I am predicting a strong showing at the next GPHG. I hope they use the concept behind the movement for some simpler (less expensive) mechanical versions.
Bulgari, as well as Chanel and Hermes, are really making some innovative and beautiful women’s watches. It looks like I will have some nice choices for an upcoming 25th anniversary gift.