It was spring 2017 when Bulgari announced its inaugural ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium.
I noticed that release, but occasionally I need a bit of time to adjust to something completely different, especially when it is the result of something unexpected.
First a little background: Gérald Genta S.A. and Daniel Roth S.A., two independent watchmakers, were acquired by Bulgari in 2000. Bulgari, however, continued to sell these quirky products under their original creators’ names. In 2010 that changed, and all products from that moment on were homogenously sold under the Bulgari name.
When transactions like this take place usually not much changes for the consumer and most people don’t even notice. But this case was different; I remember very well, for example, that the Gérald Genta boutique in Geneva surprisingly closed from one day to the next.
I was an owner of both Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth watches, one of those sentimental guys who was pretty upset about the sale. At first I forced myself to ignore the Bulgari releases, those that were influenced by strong design elements of both Genta and Roth.
But I was fooling myself completely because Bulgari had spent a huge amount of money to acquire these two brands and it had a plan.
By adding the know-how, (however short) history, and watchmaking facilities of these two companies into the strong, design-oriented fold of Bulgari, the brand became able to create difficult technical designs and release whatever kind of watch its management had a mind to launch.
Since the Bulgari Octo Finissimo premiered in 2017 I have been very attracted to the model, but was also afraid that the 40 x 5.15 mm case would be too large for my 18.5 mm wrist. But, finding myself in Paris one day, I tried the model on in the Bulgari boutique in Rue de la Paix and was immediately convinced that it was perfect and also very comfortable.
But then it still took me quite a while to decide which version would be my favorite. It had to be titanium because I love the feel of that material and the weight of just about 73 grams.
Next to the original and probably best-looking version, there are limited editions: a 200-piece version with blue numerals; a 5th Avenue edition that’s only available in the Bulgari boutique on 5th Avenue in New York; and an attractive special edition with lacquered green Arabic numerals only available from Bulgari boutiques in the Middle East.
I have been wearing the titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic for more than a week and I must say that it’s quite a different experience.
The Octo Finissimo Automatic is not a small watch with its 40 mm case; it has great wrist presence. But despite its size, I never feel the watch on my wrist.
I’ve even gone to bed accidentally still wearing the Octo, only to discover it was still on my wrist the next morning!
In January 2020, the LVMH group organized its inaugural Watch Week in Dubai for a group of select journalists and retailers. It was here that Bulgari presented new watches, among them three new Octo Finissimo Automatic models.
Choosing one of the time-only models has become even more difficult since that event took place as there it became evident that Bulgari upgraded the water resistance of the steel and gold models from 30 to 100 meters.
This is a great improvement as many felt 30 meters was not enough for such a sporty watch. Changing the regular crown to a screw-down crown dramatically improved water resistance.
If that’s also important for you, the new stainless steel with black dial could be a cool option. The watch is slightly heavier than the titanium version and some may like how it feels slightly heftier on the wrist.
The titanium version, on the market now for more than two years, has proven its strength. Contrary to the previous steel version with the grey dial and sandblasted bracelet, this sparkly new 2020 model has very attractive brushed and polished surfaces – a new feature in the Octo Finissimo collection.
While the first Octo Finissimo Automatic release with its sandblasted finish is very discreet looking, the new 2020 models with polished finishes give the model a striking new wrist presence that catches the eye of anyone interested in a contemporary sporty chic watch.
In a very personal observation, I feel Bulgari did three things very right to make this a very desirable watch for me: first of all, there is no “automatic” verbiage on the dial; secondly, there is no date window occupying the three numeral, which usually causes imbalance on the dial; and, lastly, that beautiful bracelet doesn’t need silly pushers to open.
For many decades bracelets had no pushers and that worked pretty well. But, now, as a new trend we see this silly addition more and more.
But luckily not so with the Octo Finissimo bracelet! Just pull on it where the very discreet engraving reads BVLGARI, and the buckle opens. And when the bracelet closes, the buckle sinks back into a slot in the bracelet.
Thank you, Bulgari, for creating such a comfortable and masculine watch!
For more information, please visit www.bulgari.com/en-int/watches/by-collection/octo.
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
Case: 40 x 5.25 mm, stainless steel or pink gold
Movement: ultra-slim automatic Caliber BVL 138, 2.23 mm height, 36.6 mm diameter, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: $13,900 on a bracelet, $12,800 on a strap
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
Case: 40 x 5.5 mm, ceramic
Movement: ultra-slim automatic Caliber BVL 138, 2.23 mm height, 36.6 mm diameter, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: $13,900
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Dear George,
What a surprise reading you about the Bvlgari… I know you love this watch and I’m happy to have brought it to your attention some years ago!
Enjoy in the best of health!!! Nevertheless I share with you the fear of too many editions… let’s see
Ciao
Luca
Hi Luca,
Your Octo Finissimo was indeed the one that made me look into this series.
And your limited edition is absolutely divine, hope to see it is the flesh soon.
Cheers,
George
George, the watch looks fantastic on your wrist. It is also exciting to see a watch that truly has an uniqueness in a world of copycat thinking.
A Votre Sante,
Michael
Thank you Michael!
The Octo Finissimo is indeed unique in every way.
George